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Old 05-28-2008, 02:22 AM   #1
Ozz
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Pictures of breaker panel removed

These are two pictures, one of the breaker panel removed, and one of my transfer switch and surge protection.
My power comes in from the street to the transfer switch, a coil pulls in one of two contactors, or big 50 amp rated relays, if the line voltage is over, or under the safe amount, the coil does not energize, and the electrical system is safe.
If I hook up to a generator, or power up my 3,000 Watt inverter, the switch's coil detects that line, and switches power through it.
The voltage spike protection is monitored and protected by the box on the left.
I have a similar spike protection on my home.
This is posted to help Stiles, as per our emails, and general information to all.
Breaker panel and fuse panel removed:
http://tiny.cc/Breaker998

Transfer switch and surge protection wiring;
http://tiny.cc/switch326
 
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:17 AM   #2
Exnavydiver
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Ozz, is that mass of spaghetti looking wire bundle all slack? I am used to never having enough slack to work on a breaker panel. WOW you could almost take it all to the dinning room table to work on it... Dave
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:21 AM   #3
Ozz
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Yep, all slack.
You really don't have to remove everything to check the connections in there, but I have my converter behind that mess on the outboard wall. I hear they are putting them elsewhere now.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:09 AM   #4
Exnavydiver
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Yeah, mine is under the stairs. Glad to see that I won't have to bend my old carcass in weird ways to work up there. Still debating which dryer to get, 120 or 240 and if it is that easy to work on the panel I may go for the 240, but that is another thread... Dave
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:39 PM   #5
Ozz
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Get the 240, we love ours.
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:19 PM   #6
Exnavydiver
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Thanks Ozz, we were just looking at washers and dryers today and since we have the Maytag Neptune units in our sticks and bricks we would like to get the 24 inchers for the rig and the dryer is 220. One question, the outlet, is it the small one or the huge one? I had a small 220 for my radial arm saw and that would make for a nice install in the rig... Dave
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:43 PM   #7
stiles watson
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Thanks. Ozz!!
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:41 AM   #8
Ozz
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It's the small one, for dryers. I think the big one you are thinking of is for electric ranges.
I just wired up a dryer outlet and circuit yesterday for a customer in her rental house, there are two types available, 3 prong and 4 prong, the 4 prong has a neutral wire, tow hots and a ground.
Ours is a 3 wire.
You can use the unused breaker and circuit for the 120 volt dryer for a circuit and outlet in the basement. (Or somewhere else-electric heater maybe)
An old post:
Dryer and Washer install modify it a little:
This is for my Montana 3400RL
I moved both the 220 outlet and the 120 volt outlet high to provide access. The Maytag's are wide and cut down on clearance.
I unhooked the unused 20 amp circuit for the dryer to use elsewhere, (Basement, or another outlet to the living room for a heater circuit.)
Use a Sears back aluminum flat vent extender to bring the vent out on top, trust me on this, it's best. (Clearance and access issues)
Don't give a care about codes, so I didn't check that. (I know it's safe and has worked for 120 loads....) Use the 220 dryer leads that come with it, get the mating receptacle.
Didn't have to do any door or frame mod's, but I would cut the back wall a little to give more room for the hoses, and use heavy duty reinforced hoses, not the ones that come with it.
I like the expensive dryer vent from C.W., looks nicer, (Just like the expensive class "A"'s.…)
Hope that helped.
Ozz
Dryer and Washer install modify it a little:
This is for my Montana 3400RL
I moved both the 220 outlet and the 120 volt outlet high to provide access. The Maytag's are wide and cut down on clearance.
I unhooked the unused 20 amp circuit for the dryer to use elsewhere, (Basement, or another outlet to the living room for a heater circuit.)
Use a Sears back aluminum flat vent extender to bring the vent out on top, trust me on this, it's best. (Clearance and access issues)
Don't give a care about codes, so I didn't check that. (I know it's safe and has worked for 120 loads....) Use the 220 dryer leads that come with it, get the mating receptacle.
Didn't have to do any door or frame mod's, but I would cut the back wall a little to give more room for the hoses, and use heavy duty reinforced hoses, not the ones that come with it.
I like the expensive dryer vent from C.W., looks nicer, (Just like the expensive class "A"'s.…)
Hope that helped.
Ozz
Washer and dryer:
http://tiny.cc/dryer957
http://tiny.cc/Washer
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ingmachine.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/e8407404.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/e13adadb.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/eaff4ec3.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/3eb583f2.jpg


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Old 05-29-2008, 05:55 AM   #9
Exnavydiver
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Thanks Ozz, those are the units I have been looking at for the last year and I think that will be the way I go. When you put the plug in where did you locate it? As you look at the closet, top right, left or somewhere else? I am assuming it is on the back wall... Dave
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:24 AM   #10
Ozz
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Up high on the left. I moved the washer 120 up there as well. I can't imagine them installing the outlets so low.
Not thinking ahead.....
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:22 PM   #11
Exnavydiver
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On our 340RLQ the outlets are on the lower left side of the cabinet in front of the water and drain box, on the side wall. Is that where the had yours?
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Old 05-29-2008, 03:35 PM   #12
Ozz
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Well, they were on the left side of the inside wall, the drain and water, on the back wall of the small closet.
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Old 05-29-2008, 03:41 PM   #13
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Thanks Ozz... Dave
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