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Old 01-31-2020, 03:31 PM   #21
JDDilly
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Furnace is 12v.
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Old 01-31-2020, 03:44 PM   #22
DutchmenSport
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Little tip for quicker heating, or cooling in the Summer. When you arrive at your destination, power up the furnace, but leave the slides in. (provided the slides do not cover the vents in the floor). Once the enclosed area warms up a bit more comfortable, open one slide until the temperature adjusts. Then open the second, and so in. Heating a smaller area will be faster and get you comfortable faster too.

Same in the Summer. Run the air conditioner with the slides in initially. Let the main area of the camper cool first, then open one slide at a time enabling the entire coach to equalize with each slide that opens.

Another tip to be a little more frugal on your propane in winter or electricity in Summer. If it's really hot or really cold outside, retract all the slide except the one in your bedroom. When you get up in the morning, pull them back out. Heating and cooling the smaller space will make a big difference on power usage. And keep things warmer or cooler easier.
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Old 01-31-2020, 03:51 PM   #23
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Traveling with furnace on

JDDILLY has kindly informed me the furnace is entirely 12volts. No 120 AC in volved. I should have found this myself but I thank him for pointing this out.
I have a 27DC BATTERY. Would this hold up to couple hours of driving or should I add another battery. I do realize my truck will be charging as I drive.
Which if this is advisable, I would put replace the existing one with two new ones.

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Old 01-31-2020, 05:52 PM   #24
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Wel that is one of the more thoughtful things they did designing these RVs. The furnace actually runs on the 12v system, and propane of course.
It does not need 120vac to run. By doing it on the 12v system it allows you to boondock and stay warm. You do need to have a good battery system. The furnace will use 11A. I'm not sure how the math works to tell you how long your battery will last.
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Old 01-31-2020, 07:33 PM   #25
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furnace is 12 volt
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:59 PM   #26
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I have always installed 2 batteries, just to have longer life when I don't have shore power. We now have a rig with a residential refrigerator, so I carry a generator so when we spend the night on the road.
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Old 02-01-2020, 10:42 AM   #27
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Just had a thought - just did an initial wall thru on new camper - dealer was doing upgrades ordered. Cold day so the dealer was breaking in the furnace. When I opened the basement door it was warm. There is a big space above rear basement wall. As a quick fix get some fiberglass insulation and fill the gap.

I will also be getting foam board insulation and insulating the ceiling in the basement - this will also help summer cooling. On the 373RD we are getting - will also need to do the garage in the rear
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Old 02-01-2020, 11:06 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Ram Montana High Country View Post
Just had a thought - just did an initial wall thru on new camper - dealer was doing upgrades ordered. Cold day so the dealer was breaking in the furnace. When I opened the basement door it was warm. There is a big space above rear basement wall. As a quick fix get some fiberglass insulation and fill the gap.

I will also be getting foam board insulation and insulating the ceiling in the basement - this will also help summer cooling. On the 373RD we are getting - will also need to do the garage in the rear
Actually I think it's a good thing to keep your basement warm. If you have washer hookup, there are pipes going through there to the bedroom closet. Also you want warm are around your convenience center to keep the pipes from freezing. Warming the basement also warms your bedroom floor.
I would insulate the basement walls, floor and doors. Same for the battery compartment. Keeping the battery warm makes it last longer and produce power longer when boondocking.
The underbelly is supposed to be heated. I question that considering the frame is steel, has no insulation and has holes in it.
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Old 02-01-2020, 12:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
Wel that is one of the more thoughtful things they did designing these RVs. The furnace actually runs on the 12v system, and propane of course.
It does not need 120vac to run. By doing it on the 12v system it allows you to boondock and stay warm. You do need to have a good battery system. The furnace will use 11A. I'm not sure how the math works to tell you how long your battery will last.
Of course for those of us that do not boondock this is a disadvantage and they don't offer a built in option around it (other than the limited temp range heat pumps).

I for one would like the option to buy a totally 110volt electric rig. If we ever do an overnight without hook ups we would use a generator. Apparently I'm not alone in this as they are starting to make some of the higher end Class A motorhomes totally 110volt electric.

Before you get all in a fluster and respond, I'm NOT saying don't make boondock capable rigs. I am saying offer a non boondock option. In fact, I have zero problem with them offering an advanced boondock capable rig that has solar panels built in or something like that. I just don't want to be forced to buy a rig like that as I will never ever use those features myself.
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Old 02-01-2020, 01:23 PM   #30
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Agreed with most comments. The convenience center on most rigs is behind basement wall. As for washing machine lines I would cover those and leave them open to heated area behind basement wall. Kinda like they furnace duct going thru basement is. For those of us not using washer - put a valve behind wall to eliminate needing to heat.

This keeps all belly space heated as designed.

Also benefits cooling in the summer.

As for keeping battery warm, there are battery warmers for vehicles - doesn’t take much. The standard battery box does have vent holes on top and bottom which can’t be covered is using STD batteries.

That’s what’s good about this forum - get to improve ideas before launching.
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Old 02-01-2020, 02:06 PM   #31
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Artic package and all season Rv mean little you will melt in hot temps and be cold in low temps At a rally in Shawnee, OK a couple of years ago at 107 degrees both A/Cs ran all day and most of the night to attempt to keep the 3402 at 77 degrees. We do not do cold weather Rv'ing because we have done cold weather Rv'ing and that is why we do not do it.
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:39 AM   #32
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Most furnaces don't use 120vac.
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:13 PM   #33
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Android too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave and Beta View Post
<snip>If you have an iPhone...<snip>
Question: When I visit the Mopeka website it indicates they have apps for both iOS and Android. Are you saying that only the iOS version works with the standard sensors?

aTdHvAaNnKcSe
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:41 PM   #34
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Question: When I visit the Mopeka website it indicates they have apps for both iOS and Android. Are you saying that only the iOS version works with the standard sensors?

aTdHvAaNnKcSe
Yes it works on android. I just bought the sensors and downloaded the android app. Works great
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