Mor-Ryde rubber 'Spring' changeout - Montana Owners Club

Ozz · 10-13-2007, 01:57 AM

I thought I would post this in it's own thread for anyone in the future, working on their Mor-Ryde. Easier to use the search feature this way.
The 18K uses a #5 rubber spring, the Montana 3400RL needs a #4 rubber spring.
I just changed mine out, I had a #5, I bought a #4.
I unbolted it and let it swing down, then removed the rubber 'spring'. The access to the back 2 bolts is hampered by the overhang of the Monte's nose. I had to use a 3/8" drive and socket. It took all of my 230# to break it loose. The front two bolts were easy with the 1/2" drive socket and longer ratchet. Use 90# torque when tightening the bolts back up.
We dealt with Greg, a nice helpful guy there.
(Click on view as slideshow and set interval to 5 or 6) Here are some photo's

nailbender · 10-13-2007, 02:58 AM

Will the #4 spring change the amount of fore and aft travel at the 4 bushings? I have the recommended 7/8" travel now, but the ride is not as smooth as I expected it would be.
The pin box was installed last month at the Goshen Rally by Mor/ryde and I would assume that the correct springs were installed, but ???

richfaa · 10-13-2007, 03:23 AM

As OZZ Can tell you the Number (4) or (5) is on the bottom of the rubber pad and can only be seen when the bottom is removed and the pad swung down. Mine was checked out at the fall rally ( it was the 4) pad. The Mor-Ryde folks did not like the looks of my spacers(the white thingys on OZZ photo 10-2136) so they replaced the entire bottom portion. It did feel a bit "stiff" on the drive home from Goshen but has since returned to what I consider normal. Remember ALL chucking is NOT removed but there should be a huge improvement.

Ozz · 10-13-2007, 07:55 AM

I can't improve on Rich's answer, but I would not assume anything, it's too bad we can't see the number with it installed.

chieflawdawg · 10-13-2007, 04:20 PM

That is what Chris at Morryde told me my problem was. They sent me a pin box with the #5 spring and it needed the #4. He is sending me the new spring, but I have elected to let my dealer change it out. Morryde said that they would pay for the change out. I called them after the pin box was installed and it rode more rough than before. He guaranteed that this would fix the problem. I hope it does. I felt pretty bad after paying that kind of money for the pin box and explaining to the wife how great it was supposed to make the ride and then making a 500 mile trip with DW complaining all the way. Why don't they ask the GVW when you order it? Would make it alot easier.

Ozz · 10-14-2007, 01:42 AM

Steve, I had to laugh about your wife commenting. They should have a 'window' cut in the side of the assembly, so you can read the number on the rubber spring. Mine had 18K on the sticker, so I knew it was too heavy. I got mine off of Stiles' new Big Sky.
Did yours have the 18K sticker on it?
Follow up to make sure that the dealer uses the proper torque on the bolts. So many shops just use the air gun, whatever it happens to be set at, you get. From truck lug nuts to bolts on hitches...not good.
That is why I like to do repairs. I care, so many of the repair guys don't, it's just another job to them.

5rvers · 10-14-2007, 01:51 AM

Ozz,

What does changing from a #5 to a #4 do to the pinbox?

Lou

Ozz · 10-14-2007, 02:00 AM

Hi Lou, The change is only in the 'spring', or rubber pad insert. The rest of the pin box is very strong and all metal. There is no change in it. They are the same size as well.
The 'chucking' of the trailer is absorbed by the rubber insert, a heaver trailer requires a heavier insert, a lighter trailer does not require such a heavy insert. They have to be matched, thus the #4 and #5 inserts. They may have more choices, I am not sure.

5rvers · 10-14-2007, 02:38 AM

Ozz,

Thanks for the info!

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