Lithium Battery will not run internals with power off.

[Boondockboomer]

C & S,
You are correct. The bottom wire does go to battery after passing 50 amp auto reset breaker.

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by Daryles

Don't get too comfortable just yet...
If you do any cold weather camping, you want to take good care of those lithium batteries.

How to find happiness with lithium batteries
https://www.solacity.com/how-to-keep...tteries-happy/

I put two layers of 1" styrofoam board insulation in the floor and side walls of my battery compartment. I also made my own battery heaters for them. And I put a 120vac EZ start battery warmer (65w) standing up on edge along the floor againt the front wall to help keep them warm.

Damn, I like your set up. So you have two lithiums, and it looks like a deep cell agm. What is the extra battery for. Are you using your lithiums just for solar. Don’t see an mppt, so just wondering. Like your set up though.

[RipNC]

Carl,

You said you disagree and then said the same thing I did. We agree on the routing. But if someone works on the hydraulics and throws that breaker they could be surprised.

[RipNC]

Boomer,

Agree with the schematic to add the second breaker.

That red with the 30 amp inline fuse is not going to be the ignition wire to the inverter. Check your inverter for a single wire about 12 gauge and see if that wire has 12v on it.

[Boondockboomer]

There’s a black and red wire, and a small 14” copper wire stripped looks like a ground. No other wires going into inverter.

[Boondockboomer]

Do I leave it as is, or get another 80 amp breaker as indicated in this pic. And in the pic is that how I should wire, or should I clean up this whole mess with bus bars, and auto reset breakers, etc.

[Boondockboomer]

I imagine most everyone’s stock 5th wheel is similar under the storage area for the inverter.

[RipNC]

On mine the ignitionwire goes in at opposite end from the large gauge wires a.d chassis ground. From the little I can seee of your plug end - you may not have an ignition wire.

Another possibility is that your batttery voltage may have been low and the inverter won't output at or below the low voltage setpoint. Before you made the change to the 80 amp breaker you were not charging your lithium from your converter. Lithium takes all the current the converter puts out so that auto-reset 50 was breaking whenever you were on shorepower so you're batteries weren't getting the charge (they were still losing charge to the parasitic loads). The exact same thing happened to me when I switched the converter to lithium, but my batteries were only down to 12.2 (immediately after disconnecting shorepower). Now your batteries should be 100% so you may have inverter again when you disconnect shorepower now.

PS: check the gfi outlet on the inverter to see if it has power (or needs to be reset) - if so there could be an issue with that external transfer switch,

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by RipNC

On mine the ignitionwire goes in at opposite end from the large gauge wires a.d chassis ground. From the little I can seee of your plug end - you may not have an ignition wire.

Another possibility is that your batttery voltage may have been low and the inverter won't output at or below the low voltage setpoint. Before you made the change to the 80 amp breaker you were not charging your lithium from your converter. Lithium takes all the current the converter puts out so that auto-reset 50 was breaking whenever you were on shorepower so you're batteries weren't getting the charge (they were still losing charge to the parasitic loads). The exact same thing happened to me when I switched the converter to lithium, but my batteries were only down to 12.2 (immediately after disconnecting shorepower). Now your batteries should be 100% so you may have inverter again when you disconnect shorepower now.

PS: check the gfi outlet on the inverter to see if it has power (or needs to be reset) - if so there could be an issue with that external transfer switch,

So I did turn off shore power this morning and left a battery on for a while. Good news is my batteries at 14.6 V now so the converter definitely charged it there’s a little blue button by the panel on the converter if you tap it once and hold it the green light will be solid and it does a burst charge that works as well. Bottom line though is that the inverter still doesn’t work. I’m not sure how I got it to work last time because it had problems prior to all this. I think I actually disconnected the disconnect switch and maybe that had something to do with it. Or a little bitty wire , not sure what that goes to but it has a small fuse on it. Maybe it’s in the wrong terminal. Anyway I’m just spit bawling here

[RipNC]

Hmmm, got a picture of that bitty wire and terminal?

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by Boondockboomer

Damn, I like your set up. So you have two lithiums, and it looks like a deep cell agm. What is the extra battery for. Are you using your lithiums just for solar. Don’t see an mppt, so just wondering. Like your set up though.

That was an old picture. I have 4 lithium now. The MPPT is in the basement where they pre-wired the rig for solar.
I kept the original FLA battery (only a year old) and the switch is a 250A 3 way selector switch.
The idea is for a back up to the lithium. The FLA doesn't care if it freezing and you can charge it.
Lithium doesn't like being charged below freezing.
I also have the lithium battery heaters run to the FLA battery. I can use the FLA battery to warm the lithium batteries before switching them over to the converter/MPPT/60A DC-DC charger.

[Boondockboomer]

Green one is small (bitty) wire.

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by RipNC

Hmmm, got a picture of that bitty wire and terminal?

Below in green. Considering that new set up as well. Blue box indicating another 80 amp.

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by Daryles

That was an old picture. I have 4 lithium now. The MPPT is in the basement where they pre-wired the rig for solar.
I kept the original FLA battery (only a year old) and the switch is a 250A 3 way selector switch.
The idea is for a back up to the lithium. The FLA doesn't care if it freezing and you can charge it.
Lithium doesn't like being charged below freezing.
I also have the lithium battery heaters run to the FLA battery. I can use the FLA battery to warm the lithium batteries before switching them over to the converter/MPPT/60A DC-DC charger.

I am wondering if I should get a 2000 watt renogy over a 1000 watt?
Your thoughts? My mppt is 40 watt. But I only have 2 lithium bat.

[Boondockboomer]

So, the original 80 amp that goes from battery to inverter has not been touched. So a bit confused how the inverter would be affected by adding a new 80 amp for the hydro lift. I don’t see a correlation.
With that said, checked other end of inverter, definitely no power on other end of inverter. My assumption is inverters powers those two plugs via the battery.
My only conclusion is inverter is also hosed per a recent event.

[RipNC]

Boomer,

Talking converter, not inverter. In your original post - 1st photo - the hydraulics and house feed were on same side of 50A auto-reset (battery on other side). When you switch to lithium they take much higher charge amperage and that 50 would trip (since shorepower was on you would not notice because the converter was supplying 12v to the house panel). There were/are other loads on the batteries that draw current any/all the time, those were drawing down your batts. The 80A manual has solved that problem. The breaker I suggested adding simply gives more control and a measure of safety by segregating the house load and the hydraulis load. Realize that the converter charges the batteries by sending current back to batterkes over the same line that the batteries supply 12v (when the converter has no 120v power in).

Yoir inverter issue is separate and I was only relating that, prior to changing to the 80A manual, you may have depleted your batteries enough to have the inverter cut off due to low supply voltage from the batteries. Now that you know you have good vootage at the batteries - the inverter "should" work. Obviously, other troubleshooting on the inverter is required.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Boondockboomer

So, the original 80 amp that goes from battery to inverter has not been touched. So a bit confused how the inverter would be affected by adding a new 80 amp for the hydro lift...

F.Y.I. your picture in Post #52 has an image of the CB for the inverter that is actually readable. It is a 150 amp CB not 50 amp. This is to be expected as inverters draw much higher amperage than the hydraulic pump.

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

F.Y.I. your picture in Post #52 has an image of the CB for the inverter that is actually readable. It is a 150 amp CB not 50 amp. This is to be expected as inverters draw much higher amperage than the hydraulic pump.

You are correct it is 150 amp battery > inverter

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by Boondockboomer

I am wondering if I should get a 2000 watt renogy over a 1000 watt?
Your thoughts? My mppt is 40 watt. But I only have 2 lithium bat.

The reason I installed the 2000W (4000W surge) inverter is to run the microwave, Nespresso and front air conditioner (I already installed a SoftStartRV in it). Not at the same time...
If you are only running a residential fridge that would not be necessary.
If I was doing it again I would go 3000w inverter.
My MPPT is A Victron 100/30 (30A). This rig was pre wired with 10 gauge wiring for the solar system. 10 gauge is limited to 30A. If I was doing it over I would go 6 or 8 gauge wiring for the solar and a 150/75 MPPT OR a Victron Multiplus (all in one).

You are fine for what you have.

[Boondockboomer]

Originally Posted by Daryles

The reason I installed the 2000W (4000W surge) inverter is to run the microwave, Nespresso and front air conditioner (I already installed a SoftStartRV in it). Not at the same time...
If you are only running a residential fridge that would not be necessary.
If I was doing it again I would go 3000w inverter.
My MPPT is A Victron 100/30 (30A). This rig was pre wired with 10 gauge wiring for the solar system. 10 gauge is limited to 30A. If I was doing it over I would go 6 or 8 gauge wiring for the solar and a 150/75 MPPT OR a Victron Multiplus (all in one).

You are fine for what you have.

So you are running your front AC. That’s ultimately what I want to do with my Solar setup and lithium battery. But I am guessing I need at least 4 lithium batteries to push that kind of wattage. I am assuming the softstartRV is for your front AC because of the initial draw?
I am currently waiting on the 2k inverter to come in. I think my lithium battery blew up the CSW 1012 (1000 watt) unit. Can’t get it started anymore.