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10-01-2012, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adirondack
Posts: 367
M.O.C. #10754
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Drain valve for water tank?
While touring the Montana factory I noticed they now install a valve on the drain hose for the fresh water tank instead of the screw cap that is on mine which is a pain to remove. I would like to get one to replace my screw cap but can't find it anywhere. Can anyone help????
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10-01-2012, 12:24 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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Lee-- Just went down to the local hardware store and picked up an outside faucet that has a screw on application. Took the cap off mine and screwed on the faucet. I took a cap(bought at the hardware store for hose ends or you can use a popbottle cap)and put over the end so dirt wouldn't plug up the faucet outlet and wala-- a faucet that I can turn off and on with the handle and can connect a hose to to run the water away from the unit so I don't step in it and track water and mud all over.
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10-02-2012, 06:16 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adirondack
Posts: 367
M.O.C. #10754
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Thanks Rondo. Good idea, I'm going to do the same.
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10-02-2012, 07:20 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Just look around for PEX fittings made by Flair It ... several of our local hardware stores (Sutherlands, ACE, Lowes) carry some of the fittings. The nut goes on the tube first, then slip the tube over the barb on the fitting, then just tighten the nut up on the assembly. You don't reall have to reef down on the nut ... just tight.
Here's just an example of the fittings ... mobile homes use them quite a bit.
http://www.completemobilehomesupply....tings_s/36.htm
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10-02-2012, 08:44 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
Just look around for PEX fittings made by Flair It ... several of our local hardware stores (Sutherlands, ACE, Lowes) carry some of the fittings. The nut goes on the tube first, then slip the tube over the barb on the fitting, then just tighten the nut up on the assembly. You don't reall have to reef down on the nut ... just tight.
Here's just an example of the fittings ... mobile homes use them quite a bit.
http://www.completemobilehomesupply....tings_s/36.htm
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This is what I used also, picked it up at an RV supply place. Keystone is just too cheap to put them on.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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10-02-2012, 09:07 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indian Land
Posts: 1,142
M.O.C. #9808
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Our SOB years ago, had plastic valve, but they break after 3 years, so I prefer the cap.
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10-02-2012, 09:43 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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A shot of silicone from time to time extends their life considerably.
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10-02-2012, 11:14 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Winthrop Harbor
Posts: 1,831
M.O.C. #8160
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I replaced my cap immediately. My SOB had a valve. The best mod I've done (well the cheapest)
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10-22-2012, 07:43 PM
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#9
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: ALBUQUERQUE
Posts: 248
M.O.C. #12840
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Related problem: I don't like to travel with the hot water heater full. Also need to empty it before storing. Pulling the sacrificial anode is getting old and messy (not to mention it running over the wheels). Does any one have a solution for this?
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10-23-2012, 01:58 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hixson
Posts: 3,436
M.O.C. #11397
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by McIver
Related problem: I don't like to travel with the hot water heater full. Also need to empty it before storing. Pulling the sacrificial anode is getting old and messy (not to mention it running over the wheels). Does any one have a solution for this?
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What is negative about traveling with full water heater? 
__________________
2018.5 Montana 3791RD
Full Timers 9/1/2010 through 1/16/2020.
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10-23-2012, 02:17 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by McIver
Related problem: I don't like to travel with the hot water heater full. Also need to empty it before storing. Pulling the sacrificial anode is getting old and messy (not to mention it running over the wheels). Does any one have a solution for this?
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They make an Anode rod with a hole in it and a radiator wing nut on the end for draining. You can replace your existing one with that.
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10-24-2012, 02:28 PM
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#12
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: ALBUQUERQUE
Posts: 248
M.O.C. #12840
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Thanks for the information. Where did you get the anode kit?
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10-25-2012, 05:26 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adirondack
Posts: 367
M.O.C. #10754
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I got mine on Ebay. I bought the "Kit" which includes a copper wand for flushing out the bottom of the tank also.
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10-25-2012, 03:06 PM
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#14
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: ALBUQUERQUE
Posts: 248
M.O.C. #12840
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Can you give me the Co. name so I can try to find them on the internet?
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10-26-2012, 01:28 PM
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#15
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adirondack
Posts: 367
M.O.C. #10754
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I did a Google search for "Tank Saver Anode Kit". A bunch came up.
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