Levelup Removal

[masterdrago]

Are there any tricks or precautions I need to know on the removal of my front street side LCI jack? I've had a leak for ~3 years and it seems to be getting slightly worse. About a pint of ATF every several months. Contacted LCI and I must say their CS is really good - fast and to the point replies. I was asking for the process to remove and they said "To remove I would have hooked up to your truck. Run the jack down a little bit to remove pressure then just unbolt and replace jack".


Sounds simple enough although I'll set frame on a jack-stand, not truck. Found a shop in area that will have a look and can rebuild but no price yet. LCI asking $524.95 for part# 43346910. Not sure if I want to just standby a while, fix or replace. Any help will be appreciated.

[Carl n Susan]

It has been a while, but I have relocated the jacks on several rigs to provide more ground clearance. Either the nut or the bolt (it is the nut I think) has a serrated like surface which makes it difficult to turn. Be sure to put a box wrench on it to stabilize as you unbolt the other end. I found a small impact wrench the best tool for removal. Use a torque wrench to reinstall.

[Theunz]

Make sure you have a suitable jack stand. You are probably putting 1,500lbs or so on it. I would want a stand rated for at least 2 tons.

[DutchmenSport]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

...Not sure if I want to just standby a while, fix or replace. Any help will be appreciated.

In a lot of ways, I'm pretty anal when it come to my Montana. I would bite the bullet and just replace, especially if I have the ability, time, and tools to remove the old one and install the new one myself. If I could not do it myself, I'd take it to a shop that could do it. Either way, I would not just "standby". Things not correct on my Montana drive me nuts! Gotta get "it" fixed immediately. No matter what "it" is. But, that's just me.

[dieselguy]

Why would you not simply hook up your truck and not have to mess with a jack and/or cribbing?? You wouldn't really have to run in your slides if you are using your fiver now. Take a photo of the hydraulic lines before you remove them and get some new o-rings for the fittings. Like mentioned, it's an easy R&R. Get the weight off all jacks and just bump the extend switch to unload residual pressure. There will still be a few ounces of fluid loss, but no biggie. Remember to add say 1/4 - 1/2 quart of oil back to your reservoir when cycling the air out.

Best of luck on the shop finding a suitable seal kit as none of the rest of us have been successful in that area. It seems to be "Secret Squirrel" stuff. If you do find a kit or seal sizes ... please post later on.

[rohrmann]

This is the official Lippert video on removal and replacement of the levelup jacks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPCu...ture=emb_title

[dieselguy]

I've heard Lippert's procedure on how to bleed the air from a replaced jack may differ from what I'll just lay out for thought. Say you replace the drivers side front jack ... at that point the only lines that will have air in them will be on that jack only as no other lines have been disconnected. Just cycle the front jacks with the Level Up keypad ... don't move the side or rear jacks until the front jacks seem bled and the reservoir has had time to let entrapped air leech out from the fluid. This suggestion will quicken removing the air out of those lines and keep from needlessly introducing entrapped air into all the other cylinder lines. I also see no need to cycle the slide cylinders either as although they share the same reservoir ... it is a separate system hyd line wise. Again, this is just my viewpoint ... use the method you feel comfortable with should the need arise.

[RMcNeal]

If I remember correctly, when I raised the jacks on my unit the nuts were tack welded to the back of the mounting bracket. The bolts came out pretty easy. I used a floor jack to hold and raise the hydraulic jack and reposition to the next hole up.

[masterdrago]

Hey Rohrmann, thanks. You would have thunk that the Lippert guy could have pointed me to that vid.
Hey dieselguy, if I replace it, I will use the truck but if I decide to remove and hand carry to Universal Hydraulic Service in Conroe, I'll most likely set the front on jack stands. I bought a pair of 22ton after getting the 5r "just in case".

[masterdrago]

Is there any audio in that video? I was wondering what the torque values are for the fasteners.

[RMcNeal]

According to the Level Up installation manual the fasteners should be torqued to 52-64 ft-lbs.

[DadsHemi]

Yes...take a picture of the lines to the Jack it super easy as long as you put the lines back on in the same ports...I just replaced my front two last month and my only issue was I did not take a picture and thought that I would remember...well I did not as I had one line wrong �� and it took a forum member to point me in the right direction.

[masterdrago]

When I enter that part# at the Lippert web site I get this page: https://store.lci1.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=43346910
No exact results found for: '43346910'. The displayed items are the closest matches.
The pix shows two landing gear, a black and a silver one. Mine is silver so I'm confused. The price the rep gave me was $524.95 and a discount code to apply.

[masterdrago]

Looking thru the manual, I'm now seeing that the front are called "Landing Gear" while the other 4 are called "Leveling Jacks" or Jack Assemblies. Subtle difference;=]

[DadsHemi]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

When I enter that part# at the Lippert web site I get this page: https://store.lci1.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=43346910
No exact results found for: '43346910'. The displayed items are the closest matches.
The pix shows two landing gear, a black and a silver one. Mine is silver so I'm confused. The price the rep gave me was $524.95 and a discount code to apply.

The black ones are the ones I purchased, I believe they are 27” long and they are 14K lifting Jacks. These are what I bought, there is a left and right Jack so make sure you purchase the correct side.

On top of your jacks it has a stamp with L or R

[ChuckS]

Any good hyd shop can rebuild this for under $200 as long as the inner piston and brass aren’t scored real bad...much more cost effective than a new one

Easy job to replace ..system is self bleeding

Also make sure the banjo fitting on top isn’t leaking.. this will cause fluid to seep down the side of the LG jack.. Arrow points to banjo bolt..o ring seal under the bolt head...

Also check the other two cap bolts and see if they will take a 1/4 to 1/2 snug turn... the Hydac valve ...only one LG has this can also be a source of leak

[masterdrago]

I tried to check the torque on those bolts after the first conversation with LCI a couple years ago. They were far tighter than Dick's hat band! And yes, under that cap is where the leak appears to come from. It is very small and only accumulates enough oil at the bottom pad after extensive rest time on my pad at home. or after a few months where parked now since July.

[Rondo]

When you replace the jack(if you haven't already) make sure you use the correct fluid. Some units have hydraulic fluid in the reservoir and others have ATM. Not a good idea to mix them. Also if you have not replaced the jack yet, it might be a crushed or pinched O ring or gasket that is causing the leak since the torque was as high as you stated. Maybe just a simple O ring/gasket will stop that leak.

[masterdrago]

Thanks Rondo. I'm using Valvaline full synthetic ATF. I've been adding fluid a bit over the last couple of years and been following the guidelines in LCI manual:
Fluid Recommendation
The Lippert Electronic Leveling System is pre-filled, primed and ready to operate direct from the
manufacturer. Type “A” Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is utilized and will work. ATF with Dexron III® or
Mercon 5® or a blend of both is recommended by Lippert Components, Inc.
In colder temperatures (less than 10° F) the jacks may extend and retract slowly due to the fluid’s molecular
nature. For cold weather operation, fluid specially formulated for low temperatures may be desirable. For a
list of approved fluid specifications, see TI-188.


I've heard that folks have been unable to match the o-ring parts which I find odd. I may attempt although LCI told me that no rebuild parts were available. I'm fairly sure this is like the pump on my zero turn mower. You just have to get in touch with the folks that build the things to get parts.

[bigsky]

Two years ago I had a leak on one of the front jacks. I put four concrete blocks, two stacked on top of each other on both sides of my unit just behind the front jacks under the frame with a piece of plywood on top of the blocks. I lowered the front down on the blocks to remove the pressure. Mark the lines so they go back on the correct way. Have caps and plugs for the lines to keep fluid from draining out of the lines and from the jack. I removed the jack and marked the holes for correct placement. Took it to a local hydraulic shop and had it rebuilt for under $70. They aren’t metric so no problem getting o rings and seals. Put it back on and it’s been fine ever since. Easy fix!