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Old 02-19-2020, 02:29 PM   #1
kenandjudy
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Black tank support

I have repaired my black tank a couple of times and have decided to replace it. Does anyone have suggestions for adding additional supports after I install replacement. Thanks Ken
 
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Old 02-19-2020, 03:35 PM   #2
Jeff n Susan
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Sorry, no help for additional supports.... but.... May I ask ,why you would need to replace it? Is it a manufacturing thing? Just curious....
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:20 PM   #3
Texan
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I installed a couple of 2x2 angle irons across the frame using 2 self tapping bolts on each side then using wood blocks between the metal and coroplast pushing the blocks snug up against the tank. There are 2 braces already under the rv and with the additional braces you have 4 that when blocked up snug is enough to keep the tanks from flexing. I made sure my tanks were empty so I could get the blocks tight enough so that when added weight to the tanks they would not have enough to expand downward. I drilled small holes in the braces and used short screws through the angle into the blocks so they wouldn't shift. The metal braces used were able to brace both gray and black tanks and has worked very well.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:05 PM   #4
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In 2016, I had developed a leak in the grey tank that I was able to repair with PlastiMend. Once this was done, I decided to add braces in addition to the two already installed. Since the bottom of the tanks are sloped, I added blocks of varying thicknesses, glued them to the bottom of the tanks where the braces would be located, reinstalled the coroplast and then reinstalled the braces. Don't have a worries about the two tanks failing, even if full.
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Old 02-20-2020, 10:13 AM   #5
kenandjudy
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Rohrmann I like your idea. What do you have covering the wood spacers?
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:40 PM   #6
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They were Christmas presents! Some people get lumps of coal...some get 2x6s ...just kidding.

Rohrmann - how many times have you been asked that question?
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Old 02-20-2020, 03:41 PM   #7
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I’m glad I thought to take pictures when I did this. When I was working on this, where the 2X4 wood blocks are, the dimension there was 1 1/2”, so the wood blocks worked fine. Not having any other materials to make 1/2”, 1”, and 2” blocks, I bought a sheet of 1/2” foam board and just grabbed a roll of tape at the Lowe’s I was at. I cut pieces of foam, taped them to get the thicknesses I needed, and using silicone caulking, glued them to the bottom of the tanks. Once the caulking was set, I pulled off the braces, reinstalled the coroplast and then reinstalled the braces. As it worked out, with the bottom of these tanks sloped 1/2” per foot, and the braces ended up being about a foot apart, those thicknesses of blocks worked out good. Not sure if everyone’s setup would be the same, but it isn’t that complicated.
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
In 2016, I had developed a leak in the grey tank that I was able to repair with PlastiMend. Once this was done, I decided to add braces in addition to the two already installed. Since the bottom of the tanks are sloped, I added blocks of varying thicknesses, glued them to the bottom of the tanks where the braces would be located, reinstalled the coroplast and then reinstalled the braces. Don't have a worries about the two tanks failing, even if full.
Good job done right sir!
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Old 02-20-2020, 06:23 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=rohrmann;1174907]I’m glad I thought to take pictures when I did this. When I was working on this, where the 2X4 wood blocks are, the dimension there was 1 1/2”, so the wood blocks worked fine. Not having any other materials to make 1/2”, 1”, and 2” blocks, I bought a sheet of 1/2” foam board and just grabbed a roll of tape at the Lowe’s I was at. I cut pieces of foam, taped them to get the thicknesses I needed, and using silicone caulking, glued them to the bottom of the tanks. Once the caulking was set, I pulled off the braces, reinstalled the coroplast and then reinstalled the braces. As it worked out, with the bottom of these tanks sloped 1/2” per foot, and the braces ended up being about a foot apart, those thicknesses of blocks worked out good. Not sure if everyone’s setup would be the same, but it isn’t that complicated.[/QUOTE The only difference between yours and mine 'except the Christmas Paper' is I installed my wood between the brace and the tank instead of gluing the wood to the tank. If I have to remove the coroplast then I will have to remove the wood whereas your wood will stay glued to the tank. Hopefully I won't have to drop the coroplast for many years since I installed the Valtera valves with pull rods. I am getting a little to old to be laying on a creeper.
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Old 09-02-2020, 07:40 PM   #10
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Thumbs up Black tank supports

Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
In 2016, I had developed a leak in the grey tank that I was able to repair with PlastiMend. Once this was done, I decided to add braces in addition to the two already installed. Since the bottom of the tanks are sloped, I added blocks of varying thicknesses, glued them to the bottom of the tanks where the braces would be located, reinstalled the coroplast and then reinstalled the braces. Don't have a worries about the two tanks failing, even if full.
Bob,
Did you look into using some sort of metal strapping with a threaded end on one or both ends ? I am thinking of straps we see holding on LPG tanks on forklifts, or even the old-fashioned straps holding gas tanks in cars. I was thinking they might be easier to have follow any tank contours and also being able to anchor them closer to the neutral center of the chassis beams. Just curious.
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Old 09-02-2020, 09:41 PM   #11
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Because there were already two steel channels across the frame, I decided to just add two 1 1/2" angle irons across to work with the channels. I didn't need to do creative engineering to accomplish supporting the tanks, the KISS principle kicked in. So far, we can run with full tanks if needed, like at Quartzsite, and the braces and blocks have been working as I had hoped. If I had to do it again, I would probably do the same thing, and attaching the angle iron to the frame with the 1/4" TEK screws, like what was already used to hold the other braces and the coroplast, has also worked well. I suppose, those who have to tow in salted road areas might want to use stainless screws. I also know that others may have different ideas on how to support the tanks, but this worked for me and this doesn't crush the tanks like a strap wrapped around under the tanks might. I also dropped the entire coroplast to make repairs to the tank and re-installed it by myself, so I know that isn't too difficult to do if you do a little planning.
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Old 09-02-2020, 11:43 PM   #12
Texan
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Agree with Bob. Keep it simple. Bracing the tanks is very easy and i would suspect the tank would contour to the 2x4 blocks just as well as with straps.
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:42 AM   #13
Hblick48
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I used plumbing strap to support mine. I put 4 layers of shrink wrap over the plumbing strap to provide protection between the strap and tank. I cut 2x4's the size of the tank ends since they weren't supported from the factory install. I then used carriage bolts going through the floor of the basement and through the 2x4's. Then flat washers and lock washers secured the straps to the carriage bolts and straps to the 2x4's. No way for the tanks to flex when full.
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