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Old 07-31-2019, 06:22 AM   #41
BandBmalin
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Originally Posted by FloridaFlockers View Post
... I might go with a "T" style door latch now vs the magnets. Considering one for the back door too so it doesn't slam shut when we are able to leave the door open in the cooler months.
By "T" style, are you referring to those catches where you have a swinging piece on the door and a catch on the body you insert it into? For the convenience and other "storage" doors, I would still vote for the magnets so I don't have to mess with trying to insert the "T" into the clip. For the back door, I would be a fan of the "T" vs. magnets in that application. My force concern was simply my reason for adding the adhesive and not relying on the screws alone. All 3 of my SOB travel trailers used magnets for storage doors that didn't have the pneumatic assist.
 
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Old 08-01-2019, 04:31 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by BandBmalin View Post
So you put the fans OUTSIDE on the back side of the refrigerator? A lot of what I read talks about people putting the fans inside the fridge. Do you have to run the fridge on "9" or does this allow you to actually run it on a lower number and still get cold temperatures? Does your freezer actually freeze hard things like ice cream. We can make ice and keep ice from melting, but ice cream is always "soft serve" style at best. Also, would you mind posting a pic from further back from the trailer so I can get a better view? I'm sorry for all of the questions, but I really want my fridge to do what it's supposed to do and get excited with ideas that work behind the scenes, so to speak.
I did alot of research on here and other forums that alot of people were putting the fans on the outside to keep the coils cool on the outside which in turns keeps the fridge cool on the inside. I can now keep my fridge set at 5 and it is cold in the fridge but the ice cream is still soft but not like soft serve.
Here is another thread also that is discussing this also.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...84#post1153584
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Old 08-01-2019, 01:47 PM   #43
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I created a Facebook group called the Keystone Montana 3820. I thought it would be a great place to exchange pictures and ideas that involve the 3820. Please stop by and get onboard.
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Old 08-01-2019, 02:08 PM   #44
FloridaFlockers
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Facebook? My kids have been telling me about Facegram and Instabook. They tell me it's what the hip kids are doing. Lol! Maybe my wife can access it.
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Old 08-11-2019, 08:02 PM   #45
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I bought 2 of adjustable registers off of Amazon and I could feel a difference with just 2 so I ordered 6 more so now I have 8 adjustable registers in the Montana. It was a feel like of a 108 this weekend and I was nice and cool. When I installed the new ones I retaped the ducts as they were done sloppy. I left the original in the bathroom. Well worth the time and money.
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Old 08-11-2019, 08:44 PM   #46
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Do you change the whole register or just the cover?
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Old 08-16-2019, 04:42 AM   #47
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I changed out the whole register. It's only 4 screws. Make sure you re-tape the duct work as it probably is bad. There are lots of different ones on Amazon to buy. Just make sure you order the ones that are 4 3/4 opening.
It's been well over 100 fell like temps in southern Florida and it's been nice and cool inside.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:19 AM   #48
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I replaced my vents in my last TT like that and it made a huge difference. I still need to do that in my fiver. Thanks for posting!!
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Old 08-16-2019, 02:42 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by kc8lvy View Post
I changed out the whole register. It's only 4 screws. Make sure you re-tape the duct work as it probably is bad. There are lots of different ones on Amazon to buy. Just make sure you order the ones that are 4 3/4 opening.
It's been well over 100 fell like temps in southern Florida and it's been nice and cool inside.
Could you post a pic of the work?
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Old 08-17-2019, 05:14 PM   #50
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Here are the pics that you wanted. Pic 1 after you pop off the vent cover remove the 4 screws. Pic 2 as you can see these are about 1 1/2" deep(Too Deep). As you can see in Pic 3 the old tape had a hole in it. Pic 4 is the silver tape that I used. Pic 5 I cut strips that were about 2 1/2" long. Pic 6 is after I put all the new tape up. From there install the new vents.
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Old 04-17-2024, 02:05 PM   #51
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Me and my husband just got a 3820fk and we want to put a washer and dryer in the bedroom as well. Is your dryer vented? If so where did you run the vent hose to in the bathroom as the diagram suggests or out the exterior wall?
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Old 04-18-2024, 10:23 AM   #52
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I answered this on the other thread you started - but I found a sales video for a 2019 3820FK. The screen shots below from the video show the dryer vent installed on the outside wall and the salesman opening the closet to reveal a Splendide combo washer/dryer. Based on this - you should be able to install the dryer vent to the outside wall.
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Old 04-18-2024, 03:03 PM   #53
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Thank you so much for BOTH of your replies. This should be more than enough ammo to take to my rv tech for the installation. We will go with a splendide combo unit as well so it’s good to know what unit will fit without issue. Thanks again for the plethora of diagrams and pictures.
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Old 05-14-2024, 07:44 PM   #54
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Janine. You mentioned several inconveniences of the FK that I recognized as well. If I can upload some pics here, I will show you what I did to address the issues. (Terrible day to take photos cuz my "home" is a mess....but)

First, before we even got the trailer off the lot in Nov. 2016, we took out the dinette. Have replaced it with a counter high table and chairs so we can actually see out the the awesome front window. Found a nice small cabinet that fits next to the fridge and is out of sight and not in the way of seating. Also, found great heavy duty "drawers" for every shelf under the slide-out cabinet. We, too, could not see how we would access items in the lower cabinets in the back. (drawers installed Jan 2017) I tried turning the pics every which way to get them to upload rightsize up, but, like BandBmalin, it wouldn't load right....so, hope this helps anyway. Sorry...Attachment 4270

Attachment 4271

Attachment 4272

Attachment 4273
I know it has been awhile since you posted this. When you removed the dinette, did you have to rebuild or finish anything? We cannot stand our dinette and want to take it out but don’t want to have do do a lot of finishing.
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Old 05-15-2024, 04:50 AM   #55
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Libby - I looked at D&PMac’s profile and he has not posted to the forum since July 2020, so you probably won’t get a reply to your question. Below is the photo he posted showing the dinette removed. My guess would be that there will be the prefinished wallboard behind the dinette and there will be nail or screw holes in the wall and floor. I noticed what appears to be “off-color” triangular pieces of wallboard in the corners (see red arrows). I have no idea if those were installed in the factory or if D&PMac installed those, or what might be their purpose. My GUESS would be that those corner fillets were installed by the owner possibly because the factory corner wallboard pieces were not trimmed out, and maybe he thought they were “ugly”. If they were installed in the factory - the workers picked random pieces of wallboard to make those cuts and since they were not going to be exposed behind the dinette - it did not have to match the wallboard. Also I notice there is no base trim where the wallboard meets the floor. If you hate the dinette I would think you would be happier with it gone and could look past a few missing trim pieces.

I have never dealt with dinette removal but I would think the components are installed using screws and should come out relatively easy. Just take your time and look for screws as you go. Get the plywood seat bottom off so you can access the base and wall screws.
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