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Old 03-05-2019, 04:31 PM   #1
pm1pkr
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Winterize fluid goes to hot water tank

I am trying to winterize my 2014 305RL.


I have the water heater bypass set to 'on' and the winterize set to 'on' and the tank fill power fresh set to 'normal flow'.
I have a hose in the fresh water connection and the other end in a jug.

However when I turn on the water pump any faucet I open gets 'gurgling' noises but the majority of the fluid goes into the water heater tank.


What am I missing?
 
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:11 PM   #2
rmthelen
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There should be a dedicated connection for winterizing. It appears that you are connected to the fresh water connection............look for another. There should be a total of 3. 1 for the freshwater, 1 for black tank flush and 1 for winterizing.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:31 PM   #3
pm1pkr
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Thanks.
There are 3. Black tank flush, fresh water and city water. My understanding that the fresh water connection is also for winterizing. Well that's at least what I recall the dealer telling me and what I understand from reading the winterizing section in the owners manual. And I think I have all the 'setting's correct.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:57 PM   #4
AZ Traveler
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The other option is to use a pump between your jug of antifreeze and the city water connection and put it in that way.

Its almost summer and time to get out.
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Old 03-05-2019, 05:59 PM   #5
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I don't understand both a fresh water AND a city water connection, do you know what the difference is? Does one go to the on board fresh water tank? The settings do appear to be correct so I don't think that is the culprit.
Another reason you could get antifreeze in the water heater is that your check valve in the exit side of your water heater is not functioning properly and allowing it to enter.
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:53 PM   #6
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winterizing

Yes your Check valve on the exit or TOP out let of the water tank is bad. I changed mine in November for the same thing It take a 1" wrench and a long arm to get to it. You will have to take a few furnace heater hoses off to get to it. The upper hose connection is for winterizing along with the upper and middle valves. City water is for using the city water at a camp ground the same valve also fill the fresh water tank when using the lower valve.
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:00 PM   #7
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I am guessing your labels are not positioned correctly. Or you are missing a label. City and fresh water should be one and the same. One of the others should be labeled something like Freezeguard. That is the winterizing port. I think most commonly the top one is for winterizing and middle for fresh/city water.
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Old 03-05-2019, 09:49 PM   #8
rohrmann
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Most likely, your winterize inlet is at the top, the city/fresh inlet is in the middle, and the black tank flush is at the bottom. This is what ours looks like, and it is as I described. The winterize inlet is the one with the white cap at the top. Your fresh inlet, with the valve turned to the normal position is the way you use it when just using park water. When the valve is turned to Power Fill, the water from the hose goes to the fresh tank. Always return the valve to the normal position when done filling the tank. With the water heater bypass valve turned to bypass, you should not be getting any flow into the water heater tank. If you are, it's possible that the check valve on the hot water outlet of the water heater is stuck open, and is not blocking water from entering the tank backwards from the hot water line. If that is the case, you will need to replace that check valve before you can winterize using the winterize system valves.
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Old 03-06-2019, 08:10 AM   #9
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|Chances are very good that you have a check valve that has failed at the Hot Water Tank, I had the same issue last year, no matter what I did the anti-freeze dumped out of the Hot Water tank. Pulled the panel off to get to the hwt and pulled off the upper check valve. As with most parts in the RV industry they put a cheap check valve in there with light plastic internals which failed. I installed a good quality brass check valve and in about 3 minutes had the rig winterized... Suspect you have the same issue....
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:33 PM   #10
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Bob, Thanks for sharing your connections. I like what you have done with the extra connections even though it looks FUBAR.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:44 AM   #11
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If you did put RV antifreeze in the water heater then you should flush it out with water a couple of times. The RV antifreeze is very corrosive to the anode rod.
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:11 PM   #12
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Where to buy the check valuve

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Originally Posted by speedster100 View Post
|Chances are very good that you have a check valve that has failed at the Hot Water Tank, I had the same issue last year, no matter what I did the anti-freeze dumped out of the Hot Water tank. Pulled the panel off to get to the hwt and pulled off the upper check valve. As with most parts in the RV industry they put a cheap check valve in there with light plastic internals which failed. I installed a good quality brass check valve and in about 3 minutes had the rig winterized... Suspect you have the same issue....
I have a 2017 Montana and had not all but some of the antifreeze come out the waterheater. Where can you buy the check valve?
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:28 PM   #13
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.... Where can you buy the check valve?
Go to any RV dealership to their parts and service department. They'll have them. No doubt you have PEX plumbing. If you swap it out yourself, make sure you pick up the parts to connect the pipe and / or make sure you have the tools to crimp the clamps around the PEX joints.

I don't have the crimper tool, so any plumbing I've done in my camper I've used the type of connections that you screw on and tighten down without tools.

Be careful though if you use these and do not overtighten, or you can break them (don't ask how I know).

Here's one of the connections I used on our toilet line and another where I added an outside shower off the kitchen sink lines:




The second photo shows the original installed lines with where "they" used the band and crimped the connection joints. The white ones are the ones I used when I installed the outside shower. No special tools need, no crimping. Just make sure the PEX tubing is cut straight.


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Old 10-06-2022, 07:59 PM   #14
jstadler
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Suburban SW12DEL Check valve

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Originally Posted by DutchmenSport View Post
Go to any RV dealership to their parts and service department. They'll have them. No doubt you have PEX plumbing. If you swap it out yourself, make sure you pick up the parts to connect the pipe and / or make sure you have the tools to crimp the clamps around the PEX joints.

I don't have the crimper tool, so any plumbing I've done in my camper I've used the type of connections that you screw on and tighten down without tools.

Be careful though if you use these and do not overtighten, or you can break them (don't ask how I know).

Here's one of the connections I used on our toilet line and another where I added an outside shower off the kitchen sink lines:




The second photo shows the original installed lines with where "they" used the band and crimped the connection joints. The white ones are the ones I used when I installed the outside shower. No special tools need, no crimping. Just make sure the PEX tubing is cut straight.


Thanks I was winterizing my rig today and I think the check valve is leaking. I was getting some of the antifreeze entering the water heater. Where can I find a check value for the SW12DEL water heater? Thanks much.
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Old 10-07-2022, 08:03 AM   #15
Daryles
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I used compressed air to blow out the lines then pour antifreeze down the traps.
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Old 10-07-2022, 12:18 PM   #16
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I'm with Daryles on the blowout method. 40-50 psi set on the compressor and open each faucet one at a time till no more water comes out. Same with the toilet then dump the pink stuff down the drains and a little down the toilet and leave some in the toilet to keep the gasket moist. Open the low point drains and leave open till no more water comes out then close.
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Old 10-07-2022, 03:35 PM   #17
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And blow out your black tank flush line also. I always used antifreeze in mine. And I could still see the pink stuff in the opaque flush line pipes in the spring. It does not drain out so I would assume water doesn’t drain out either.
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:19 PM   #18
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I used to do the "blow out and pour" method until one year a very small amount of water did not get blown out of some of the valving in the toilet. Spring required some toilet parts and a visit from a mobile tech.

Since then, I do the proscribed pink into the pipes method after dumping the hot water tank including removal of the anode rod and activating the bypass valve. I check that it comes out everywhere.
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Old 10-07-2022, 08:30 PM   #19
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I'm OCD - so I blow down all the lines at 40 - 45 psi, then pump the pink antifreeze. Never had issues even though the Texas deep freeze....


For the OP - I would think you could get a check valve for your hot water tank at the parts department at most any RV dealer.
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Old 10-10-2022, 02:58 PM   #20
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Also, don't forget your washing machines lines! Even if you don't have a washer there is still water in those lines.
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