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Old 07-11-2015, 06:47 PM   #1
Stvchurch
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Hot air from under the stairs

Hey there...

This lovely summer has brought us to the point of preparing to launch on our new fulltime journey, but I have 1 issue that I'm not sure how to tackle as of now (I have more than one...but this is the big one). We've had our share of days in the high 90s here in ORL and it basically feels like the is a space heater under our inside steps just blowing hot air into the cabin.

I swear I saw a post on here a while back where someone took out the basement wall and added some insulation ( I'm 95% sure it was dieselguy too...), but I sure can't find it now... In looking for that post on various boards I've run across multiple posts saying not to restrict airflow. Seems silly that I don't block it somehow.

Any advise?

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:17 AM   #2
WeBeFulltime
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I cut pieces of 1/4" plywood to fit the inside of the stair grills. Stained to match and install each year when finished with the furnace. Works very well and not visually noticeable. I use small screws to install and when removed just store under steps.
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:27 AM   #3
Phil P
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Hi

I used Velcro and cardboard that matches the wood close. No one seems to notice them when they come in the trailer and they help keep the heat out.

Phil P
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:37 AM   #4
Stvchurch
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So just to be clear...are we saying it's ok (and even preferable) to block it as long as the furnace is not in use? If so I'll have them blocked in just a few minutes...
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:19 AM   #5
jlb27537
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Block away......

Jim

PS, was 45 degrees this morning in Gunnison, Co. Life is great @ 7700'
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:22 AM   #6
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We used air vents that can be opened or closed, removed the slotted panels that Keystone installed. Cut two Birch plywood panels that are the same size, stained to match our Hickory decor. Cut the center of the new panels out to install the air vents. Installed air filters in the vents. Now we can open and close as we need. Eliminates hot & cold drafts, just have to remember to open when utilizing the furnace.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:54 AM   #7
Stvchurch
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Awesome...thanks guys!
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:38 AM   #8
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Blocking the vents under the stairs doesn't do awhole lot in the whole scheme of things ... at least on my 3150 as there's way more places for air from the storage and belly to pour in. Here's my old post ... it really really works for both summer and winter. This is mostly for units with the dropped belly frame. When you remove the rear wall in the storage compartment, you can look right down into the belly between the aluminum wall studs and see light usually as the belly pan is by no means air tight. Also, on most any Montana fiver if you were to sit inside the storage area with the doors closed ... you'd see that the door seals seldom seal all the way around as the frames aren't square.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...rms=insulation
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:40 AM   #9
waynemoore
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I removed the wall between the basement and the underbelly and isolated that area. Sealing up the area between those two areas. I also installed filters behind the inlets under each step. The furnace has plenty of air and I left the intake vent from the basement so the the furnace has the fresh makeup air it needs. Did the same on all the rigs I have owned.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:56 AM   #10
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The furnace flame itself does not draw air from inside your fiver ... at least it has better not!
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:17 AM   #11
Stvchurch
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I knew I had seen that reply somewhere! I went through DG's posts 1 by 1 but fell asleep before I got to 2011 8P
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:21 AM   #12
Stvchurch
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So...I threw in a short term fix with just 1/2" styrofoam insulation under the steps. 1 double layer in the back towards the belly, and another single layer right up against the grills. It's a billion percent better! That will buy me the time to get the materials to do what DG did below. I'll try to do that on a day that it isn't 95 degrees outside though! Lol...

Thanks guys!
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