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03-18-2015, 03:15 PM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Hillsdale
Posts: 98
M.O.C. #13509
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Running cable thru roof
I am looking at adding a WiFi amplifier and antenna. I am thinking iof running the cable up thru a kitchen cabinet and thru the roof. The supplier suggests drilling a hole thru the roof and drilling the same size hole thru the bottom of a non metallic waterproof electrical box (probably a 4x4 box). They make a watertight connector that I can go out the side of the box and attach the antenna to the batwing. They suggest putting some type of caulking or sealer on the bottom of the 4x4 and attaching it to the roof with wood screws. Do you think this would work and what type of caulk sealer would you put on the bottom of the box to seal out moisture?
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03-18-2015, 03:21 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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I would use Dicor sealant, it's very good
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03-18-2015, 03:36 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,372
M.O.C. #8728
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I've done just that for my solar and used Dicor.
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03-19-2015, 01:32 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hanover
Posts: 1,471
M.O.C. #13325
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by NCFischers
I've done just that for my solar and used Dicor.
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Same here.
__________________
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03-19-2015, 04:13 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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No matter who puts holes in your roof, whether it's installing a satellite dish or solar the professionals use Dicor self leveling sealant.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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03-19-2015, 11:32 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Had the same setup on op of my diesel pusher that I used to have. It never leaked a drop in the eight years we had it. John
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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03-20-2015, 09:06 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Depends on temps
Posts: 1,648
M.O.C. #13157
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Just a suggestion. Locate the vent for the galley tank. If it is convenient for where you want to run the coax, drill a hole in the vent pipe under the kitchen counter and run the coax to the roof thru the vent. Then just seal the hole (under the sink) with your choice of sealer. There is only air in the pipe.
The roof vent cap just pulls off and the coax will exit the cap with out any mods to the cap.
Jim
__________________
2012 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 4x4 3.73 Tow Max Pkg B&W Companion 60 gal RDS aux fuel tank. 2014 Montana 3150RL, 2 A/C's, Leather, 6 Point Jacks, Splendede WD2100XC, Mor/ryde X-Factor, Duravis 250 tires with TST 507RV monitors. 2 x Honda EU2000's
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03-20-2015, 12:35 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chilliwack
Posts: 1,520
M.O.C. #12935
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Actually Jim you don't have to run the cable into the vent pipe. Here is a picture of how all my satellite cables were brought into the RV beside the Galley vent. You can see the way the vent is configured on the roof and it is just a matter of drilling holes in the vent roof fitting to bring them in. Dicor was used to seal the holes where the cables came in.
In some cases it might be better to do the same thing from the bathroom vent depending on the layout of the unit, they should be the same in both locations, at least they are on mine.
The galley vent was chosen on mine because it was the shortest run of cables from the Satellite dish to the vent the cables were attached to the roof with Dicor.
Never had a problem with it in 3 years.
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