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Old 10-19-2020, 06:34 AM   #21
Slow Hand
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It's one thing to use the level up system in your driveway but it's something quite different changing a tire on the side of the road. I like the 12 ton jack idea. Not because it isn't lifting the whole trailer but because its bigger and you can just put it on the ground and it will reach the axle without putting wood under the jack. I have a 2 tone jack and it's just to short.
 
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Old 10-19-2020, 02:27 PM   #22
beeje
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Every time our unit gets back from a trip it goes into its spot in our pole building and raised up by the 6 point hydraulic level up system. Tires are not off the ground, but most of the weight is taken off them.

I have used the level up to get it off the ground dozen's of times without any issues.

I would not hesitate to use it to change a tire on the road if we were on solid, somewhat level ground.
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Old 10-19-2020, 05:03 PM   #23
ForBruce
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UPDATE---2 flat tires on the same side..one with a nail and the other loose valve mount.

not 100% flat...30lbs down with the nail...and 10lbs down loose valve mount

I tried a 6 ton bottle ..placed on the u-bolt but was not happy with stability as the shaft is narrow.

THen borrowed a 8 ton which worked fine but was somewhat hard to pump.
I am concerned that if the tire was totally flat a full size bottle may not fit in place .

So i will buy a LOW PROFILE (stubby) 12 ton with a wider tip and easier lift.

Trailer had all 6 jacks down..so there was no ill effect or wobble missing one tire.

(lifted one tire at a time)
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Old 10-19-2020, 06:33 PM   #24
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I did have a jack pop out from underneath an axle once after I removed the tire. Ground was softer than I figured and it let the jack lean. I know some will roll their eyes, but it really wasn't that scary. The other tire on the same side axle supported the camper with minimal issue. The crappiest part was stacking a few pieces of wood under the brake drum while I quickly readjusted the jack for more lift. No, it didn't cause issue to the drum. Now if it had been a single axle trailer ...
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:43 PM   #25
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A 6 ton bottle jack should be more than enough for what you want to do.

Do yourself a favor and check out https://safejacks.com/

Everything you need. Not cheap, but considering what you're using it for, who wants to go the cheap (and possibly unsafe) route? Not me...
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingdaddy View Post
A 6 ton bottle jack should be more than enough for what you want to do.

Do yourself a favor and check out https://safejacks.com/

Everything you need. Not cheap, but considering what you're using it for, who wants to go the cheap (and possibly unsafe) route? Not me...
safejacks has some nice stuff.... but the prices ...way over inflated ..I would rather get RAPED other ways.( i could afford but not the principal of it)

youtube has some nice ideas to build your own jack attachments to stable)..

as far as the 6-ton being enough...no theories please---it was just too hard to pump laying down sideways and wobbly ....

The 8-ton (harbor freight) i borrowed worked just fine on the u-bolt .

i am buying a 12 to make the lift that much easier and give more stability to the jack.

I just bought a temporary 8-ton at harbor freight for $25.99 and with 20% off came to only $20.79....this will stay in the box for 900 miles till i get home and then get returned....( need a safety cushion)might even keep it .


the jack i will buy and keep is a 12-ton Stubby from northern tool. only 7.5 inches and up to 13 3/4".....
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:10 PM   #27
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Not sure how much weight y'all think you might be lifting to change a flat?

Seems to me a 12 ton (24,000 lbs.) is substantial overkill... but to each his own!
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingdaddy View Post
Not sure how much weight y'all think you might be lifting to change a flat?

Seems to me a 12 ton (24,000 lbs.) is substantial overkill... but to each his own!
I agree, at the most you're lifting 4000 lb. I do like the stubby part of that Jack though. You do have to have enough space from the ground to the bottom of the axle to get the jack in there, otherwise you're screwed
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Old 10-21-2020, 07:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingdaddy View Post
Not sure how much weight y'all think you might be lifting to change a flat?

Seems to me a 12 ton (24,000 lbs.) is substantial overkill... but to each his own!
The smaller jacks have a very small pad on top. That small pad on that rounded tube or U bolt just looks unstable. That is why many of us have gone to the larger jack with the larger pad even though the lifting capability is not needed.
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:11 AM   #30
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In order to get a jack that will absolutely fit with a flat tire you need to measure from bottom of axle tube to the edge of the wheel by the tire. That way you dont end up with a jack that is ether to small or to big.

As for jacks with a lower lifting capacity. The heaver duty jack will not jack as fast as a 8 or 2 ton jacks. However the base of the heaver duty jack is bigger which makes them nice and stable. I would also recommend carrying one in the truck especially when not towing. You never know.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:46 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
The smaller jacks have a very small pad on top. That small pad on that rounded tube or U bolt just looks unstable. That is why many of us have gone to the larger jack with the larger pad even though the lifting capability is not needed.
EXACTLY the reason i want to use a 12-ton.
1----Larger foot pad
2----Heaver weight
3----larger pad on the axle
4----less chance of moving or slipping
5----laying down in crazy positions the 12-ton is easier to pump
6----don't want the wife to work hard----yuk yuk yuk (only kidding)

I don't give a rats hoot how slow it pumps up..... I want stability....
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:03 PM   #32
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Yep, all those reasons listed is why I use Safe Jack accessories with a 6 ton jack.
MUCH better than the slightly larger "pad" on top of the 12 ton and the other accessories help with the other issues (like the stabilizer pad and extensions etc.)

Expensive? Ya, I guess...but a couple of hundred dollars for something this important is justifiable to me.

Again, to each his own. Whatever works (safely) is what matters!

For an added measure of safety, you could always get one of these bad boys!
Strongway 50-Ton Hydraulic Bottle Jack with Welded Base.
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:25 PM   #33
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There are bottle jack lift accessories much cheaper than a couple hundred dollars.

https://www.4wd.com/p/safe-jack-12-t...SABEgLqg_D_BwE
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:35 PM   #34
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Yep, don't need to spend a couple of hundred dollars if you just want one piece though...
For example this piece ($29 on their website).
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:23 PM   #35
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Not counting the plastic type of jack you roll the camper on.

If the trailer is leveled and i am not moving what jack can i use to lift my trailer and change a tire. Don't want to use the leveling system which can cause FRAME TWIST.

also how many tons ?

tried a hydraulic pump jack (not a bottle type) rated 2 1/4 tons which equal 27,000 lift...well that was a joke

any ideas ??
For sure 8 tons but since only lifting one side probably 5 tons to be sure. However, my built-in hydraulic leveling system lifts without any frame twist and that's what I use.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:39 PM   #36
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I have found the ease of the leveling system far quicker and safer then messing with a jack. The each his own of course. But when on a highway quick and safe are a nice combination.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:49 PM   #37
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I agree with BB_TX. I have used the jack that came with my 1 ton truck before. Drive up on a 2x8 with the still inflated tire and put the jack directly under the springs. Only have to raise the axle to a position near to its normal place, when the tire was inflated, to change it. You'll be lifting about 1/4 of the weight that rests on all the axles. It helps if you're on level ground. If leaning towards the side with the flat, you'll be lifting more weight.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:55 PM   #38
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I use an 8ton jack that is good for the TV and trailer. Using the leveling system works as well. However, it is possible that the shackles could flip doing that which could be a problem if you are not familiar with how to flip them back. Generally, the shocks will not extend long enough to allow that flip, but with long-travel shocks, it will happen. Placing the jack between the U bolts with a block for the U bolts to rest on is what I do. I made a 2X6 wood special block with a 1/4 steel plate for the jack to push on for that purpose.
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Old 10-25-2020, 02:01 PM   #39
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I used the landing gear to lift the whole camper in the air. Lowered the front all the way. Blocks under the frame on both sides not too far from the rear wheel. Raised the front all the way. Blocks under the frame in front of the front wheels, but not too far away. Rinse and repeat. Got all the wheels off the ground to change the bushings and install wet bolts. Used a floor jack to jostle the axles as needed. No weight on them so I wasn't concerned about damaging them. Then just reverse the order to get it back on the ground.
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Old 10-25-2020, 02:17 PM   #40
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Lippert level up has hydraulic actuators, ground control has electric actuators. Level up is probably a bit more powerful. Some ground control systems only have four levelers, level up usually has six.
If I remember what I read in the manual correctly (wow, I read a manual!!), only the front and rear pairs actually perform the leveling function, the middle set acts as stabilizers.
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