Slide outs won’t extend - Montana Owners Club

PapaBeav · 08-18-2019, 01:12 PM

I have a 2012 3100RL, three slides and none of them will extend. When I hit the switch I can here the sylonoid clicking but no movement and no other sound. I believe that I burned something up. I had a Kayak in the hallway while traveling, and I think it was leaning on the slide switch (in) position.

beeje · 08-18-2019, 01:58 PM

Oh, that's not good. If the pump/motor is getting 12 volts when you hit the switch and nothing happens I would suspect a burned up pump/motor

beeje · 08-18-2019, 01:59 PM

There could also be a fuse/breaker that is blown.

PapaBeav · 08-18-2019, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beeje

Oh, that's not good. If the pump/motor is getting 12 volts when you hit the switch and nothing happens I would suspect a burned up pump/motor

Checked the breakers, I suspect the motor. Just checking to see if anyone has had this problem before.

rohrmann · 08-18-2019, 02:39 PM

Have you checked the auto-reset breaker near the batteries that is inline with the cable that goes to the pump? If that was loaded for a long time, it is possible that it is burned up. You would still have 12 volts going to the solenoid which would still operate, but if that breaker isn't working, you won't have power going to the motor. This is the part you should be checking. It might have a red plastic cover over it to protect the connections.

PapaBeav · 08-19-2019, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rohrmann

Have you checked the auto-reset breaker near the batteries that is inline with the cable that goes to the pump? If that was loaded for a long time, it is possible that it is burned up. You would still have 12 volts going to the solenoid which would still operate, but if that breaker isn't working, you won't have power going to the motor. This is the part you should be checking. It might have a red plastic cover over it to protect the connections.

Thanks Bob, I have checked both of them and they are ok. Jack replaced the original with two new ones several years ago because the slides kept stopping. That was a problem for almost everyone

**Carl n Susan** · 08-19-2019, 09:44 AM

As you can hear a click, the reversing solenoid (aka Trombeta, but not, switch) is working. Check there is 12V output from it when the someone else pushes the in/out button. Next check for 12V at the pump itself.

I suspect you are correct that the pump is toast. The good news is that is nothing more than a 12V Chinese made starter motor. The bad news is that Lippert has a lock on them and they cost $795 from them. Ask me how I know.

BB_TX · 08-19-2019, 09:55 AM

Using your voltmeter, check for voltage on both sides of that auto reset circuit breaker that supplies power to the hydraulic pump. There should be continuous +12 vdc on both terminals. If there is +12 vdc on both, then that circuit breaker is good. Only one side then it is bad.

Then check the voltage on the copper colored terminals on the top of the pump motor when someone actuates the switch inside. The middle terminal is the incoming power and should always have +12 vdc. The two terminals on either side of the middle are for extending and retracting. There should be +12 vdc on one or the other of those terminals when the inside switch is actuated depending on if you are extending or retracting. If you see +12 vdc on one of the outside terminals but the pump motor does not start, then likely the pump motor is dead. If you are seeing +12 vdc on the middle terminal but not on either of the outside terminals, then the polarity reversing contactor (that black box with the terminals on it) is likely bad.

PapaBeav · 08-20-2019, 08:55 AM

Thanks for all of your knowledge. After testing everything, it turned out that it is the pump/motor. �� I checked the Lipert website and the entire pump/motor/sylonoid assembly is $1,311.95. ��

BB_TX · 08-20-2019, 12:32 PM

Check Amazon. They show one that looks exactly like mine for $980.. Yours may be different.

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0...a-568782810846

**Carl n Susan** · 08-20-2019, 12:51 PM

I don't understand the difference between BB_TX's find and Papa Beav's quote from LCI.

Amazon has an AP Products 014-141111 Power Unit Replacement Part for $980.

There is another one listed as a Lippert Components Inc. 141111 Hydraulic Pump And Power Unit for $1,055.

Then there is the Lippert Components 179327 Hydraulic Pump Motor
for $756.

Which is the part you need and does it include extra pieces. I bought *JUST* the motor from LCI @ ~ $799. Your motor may be smoked, but the pump should be good. A motor replacement is cheaper, but if you want to be doubly safe, buy the pump and motor

beeje · 08-20-2019, 03:59 PM

Any way you look at it, its expensive. RVs are Just like boats, a big hole into which you throw $$$

ChuckS · 08-20-2019, 07:32 PM

If you are certain the motor is the issue remove the motor and take to any DC motor repair shop. It can be rebuilt for fraction of cost of new motor.

Also if the hydraulic pump has issues it can be rebuilt and just about any decent hydraulic shop.

PapaBeav · 09-04-2019, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckS

If you are certain the motor is the issue remove the motor and take to any DC motor repair shop. It can be rebuilt for fraction of cost of new motor.

Also if the hydraulic pump has issues it can be rebuilt and just about any decent hydraulic shop.

I took the pump to a local shop to be rebuilt, I will let you all know how that turns out when I get it back. The quote was $280.00.

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