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06-25-2019, 11:40 AM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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Battery disconnect switch wiring
I recently purchased a 2019 High Country 305RL.
Like so many others I wanted to add a "true" battery disconnect switch to be able to kill all power draw for when the trailer is at the storage facility.
I bought a typical rotator style switch that I wanted to install on the bulkhead inside the basement opposite of the Convenience Center to keep all of the utility access in basically one location as opposed to putting a knife switch on the battery itself.
I thought I could run a wire (black) from the negative terminal up to the switch
and another wire (black) back from the switch to the frame. Basically replacing the current black wire that runs from the neg terminal to the frame. My hope is that will serve to interrupt all power sources when the switch is used.
My concern is that the battery has a second cable on the neg terminal of a red cable that runs off to another connection somewhere and I'm not exactly sure how to handle that (pictures attached). If I leave it attached to the battery I assume I am not really getting all the loads disconnected.
Has anyone already done a battery disconnect on a similar battery setup or any suggestions on how to proceed?
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06-25-2019, 11:45 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: POINTBLANK
Posts: 1,888
M.O.C. #19944
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Is it my imagination or does the crimp on the second + wire look like it's burnt? Kinda like it's been arching under yellow cover
__________________
RAM 22' DRW 3500 Crew LB 40 gal reserve tank / RETRAX Bed Cover / 2020 373RD HC / IS / MOPEKA Tank Monitor / Furrion Side&Rear Cameras
Slide Toppers / EMS-HW50C / Sailun 85's
3rd AC / Dometic 320
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06-25-2019, 11:48 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: POINTBLANK
Posts: 1,888
M.O.C. #19944
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I think you're correct, the second wire will complete a circuit - really depends on what is hooked to it. Is that factory or DIY added?
__________________
RAM 22' DRW 3500 Crew LB 40 gal reserve tank / RETRAX Bed Cover / 2020 373RD HC / IS / MOPEKA Tank Monitor / Furrion Side&Rear Cameras
Slide Toppers / EMS-HW50C / Sailun 85's
3rd AC / Dometic 320
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06-25-2019, 11:48 AM
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#4
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Established Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Chilliwack
Posts: 15
M.O.C. #22017
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Could the positive and negative wires be for the solar collector.
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06-25-2019, 11:50 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: POINTBLANK
Posts: 1,888
M.O.C. #19944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjlamb
Could the positive and negative wires be for the solar collector.
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Tracing is needed, seems it is post factory add, especially with in-line fuse
__________________
RAM 22' DRW 3500 Crew LB 40 gal reserve tank / RETRAX Bed Cover / 2020 373RD HC / IS / MOPEKA Tank Monitor / Furrion Side&Rear Cameras
Slide Toppers / EMS-HW50C / Sailun 85's
3rd AC / Dometic 320
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06-25-2019, 11:59 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Oro Valley
Posts: 3,932
M.O.C. #20477
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The added cables look like they are for solar or an inverter.
Recommend keeping your disconnect switch in the battery compartment and disconnect both cables on negative side. You want to keep the cables short to prevent line loss.
__________________
Zack and Donna plus Millie and Ranger
2018 3160RL
"Life is too short to stay indoors, enjoy the ride!"
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06-25-2019, 12:19 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Bastrop
Posts: 2,892
M.O.C. #20753
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First find out if the dealer added a red and black wire to the negative. Then 2 reds to the positive If so get them to fix it! (I cleaned up the post and used "them")
For the disconnect, remove both wires from the terminal. Add an appropriate sized wire from battery to disconnect and put the 2 wires removed on the other side of the switch.
I would be livid if they did to me.
__________________
Mocha, one-eyed toothless, hurricane survivor, Pirate dog
2019 20th Anniversary Edition 3701LK
B&W 20K for Ford OEM Puck
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat CCLB PSD DRW KJ5CQH
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06-25-2019, 02:21 PM
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#8
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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Thank-you for all the posts so far.
So a little background. I bought this unit from an out of state dealer 5 months ago so I don't know how much luck I will have trying to find out what they did that's not OEM.
When we got back from the purchase I was having difficulty with the jacks and traced it to one of the wires had pulled out from the spade at the battery. Not worth driving it 1000 miles back to the dealer so I re-crimped it myself and problem solved. Three months later the other end of the same cable pulled out of it's spade and I then had to re-crimp that end. At that point when I took the unit in to a local dealer for other warranty work I showed them the cable and said I wanted it replaced since the workmanship was obviously defective. They fixed it saying Keystone covered it under warranty. It looks to me like they probably just re-crimped the existing ends and applied black heatsink to make it look reasonably factory, I think the "arcing" you see is just a dirt smudge.
I didn't add anything DIY and am not aware of any solar collector options, but I could be wrong. As far as keeping in the battery compartment I am talking about mounting on just the other side of the wall so probably won't add more than 3' to the total run.
jeffba your comment on one wire from battery to the switch and the two wires that were on the battery go on the other side of the switch (assuming I have enough length) seems like the way to go.
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06-25-2019, 02:24 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Oro Valley
Posts: 3,932
M.O.C. #20477
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Does your rig have an inverter?
__________________
Zack and Donna plus Millie and Ranger
2018 3160RL
"Life is too short to stay indoors, enjoy the ride!"
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06-25-2019, 02:37 PM
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#10
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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That's an interesting question and I'll confess I don't really know. If I understand correctly an inverter converts 12V battery power to run 120V AC appliances? I have never been able to use any of our 120V things like the ceiling fan when just on battery.
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06-25-2019, 02:42 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Oro Valley
Posts: 3,932
M.O.C. #20477
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Assuming you have an RV fridge vice a residential would assume you don't have one.
__________________
Zack and Donna plus Millie and Ranger
2018 3160RL
"Life is too short to stay indoors, enjoy the ride!"
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06-25-2019, 03:48 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 1,567
M.O.C. #20475
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Do you have an Inverter in your 5er it mite be the ground for it.
__________________
Bob & Carol Washington St
2017 HC HM352RL 2018 Dodge 3500 laramie CC LB 4x4
Curt Q25 with puck system, Factory air bags
Happy Trails
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06-26-2019, 10:33 AM
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#13
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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I don't have a residential fridge, mine runs on propane/ac. To the best of my knowledge I don't have an inverter. I could be wrong, but from other posts I have seen it sounds like there are typically fuses for an inverter on the circuit panel. My panel justs has breakers/fuses for the usual components (see pic).
Just a couple of more notes. The second red cable that has the black heat sink coating on it that's attached to the positive post - is the one that pulled out of its spade that was causing the problems with my jacks to error out, so I'm guessing they are fed directly from the battery via that connection.
The second red cable on the negative post goes back through a hole in the bulkhead. I would have to figure out a way to get at it to see where it goes, but I'm wondering if that might be to complete the circuit for the jacks?
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06-30-2019, 01:26 PM
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#14
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: South Jordan
Posts: 80
M.O.C. #20689
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I have a 305 RL . I believe the wire you're referring to (with an inline fuse) goes to the solar panel plug in convenience center.
__________________
2018.5 Montana HC 305 RL
2019 GMC 3500 HD Denali
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06-30-2019, 01:31 PM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Pataskala
Posts: 9
M.O.C. #13019
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First, the question about an Inverter are invalid. The gauge wire is not heavy enough for an Inverter.
Next, the paired red wires are probably to power your leveling system control board mounted on the roof of the front storage area.
Back to the original question, you will need the break the circuit to the battery for both the red and black wires on the negative battery post. Remove both negative wires, Mount a insulated post as a terminal to connect those two wires, the wire to chassis ground and a wire to your switch. Run the other switch wire to the negative battery terminal. While both circuits are grounded, the battery is not when the switch is open.
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06-30-2019, 01:38 PM
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#16
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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Ah you're talking about the black Furrion connector at the bottom right of the CC. I actually never paid much attention to that in the past since I wasn't using it so I had forgotten about it. If possible I will see if I can trace that back to the battery when I have the basement panel off. Thanks.
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06-30-2019, 02:00 PM
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#17
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: South Jordan
Posts: 80
M.O.C. #20689
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Yes, the black furrion connector has a red wire that goes direct to battery with a 10 Amp in line fuse. I had to trace this wire after plugging in a portable solar panel that had reverse polarity and blowing the fuse.
__________________
2018.5 Montana HC 305 RL
2019 GMC 3500 HD Denali
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06-30-2019, 02:17 PM
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#18
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vail
Posts: 12
M.O.C. #23218
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Thanks shiggs68, I agree the paired red wires are probably related to the leveling system because when the red lead pulled out of the positive terminal that is when I had problems with the jacks.
I'm sorry I didn't quite follow your instructions 100%, but I think what you were trying to tell me was that my original plan of removing the two existing wires from the neg post and attaching them to one side of my switch and running a wire from the other side of my switch back down to the neg post was flawed.
So lets see if I can restate what you are telling me. Take the existing two wires from the neg post and attach them to a new terminal (bolt) grounded to the frame. Add a new third wire from this post to one side of my switch. And then take another wire from the other side of the switch back down to the neg post of the battery. I hope I got that right. thanks.
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06-30-2019, 03:17 PM
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#19
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Folsom
Posts: 17
M.O.C. #18526
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I installed a new disconnect next to my battery bank (4 Trojans.) I left the factory disconnect in place and it stays in the on position.
Paul
2016 3160RL
2019 F350 SDW FX4
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06-30-2019, 05:43 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 1,896
M.O.C. #9561
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A 'true disconnect'? Just disconnect the negative wires on batteries.
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