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Old 02-11-2011, 02:44 PM   #1
oldelmer1
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50 AMP EMS and Power Connector

As I was studying up on the 2 EMS units, Progressive Industries, and SafeGuard, portable and hardwired units. I know I should have one, but its too cold to install a hardwired unit now cause we are thinking of heading to warmer weather VERY SOON. The portable would be usable from the get go, but not the hardwired.

Then I wondered, I could get the portable, use it now, then hard wire it in by finding my power cable, cutting it and put a male and a female plug on the wire and just plug the portable in leaving it in the basement to be viewed if a problem occurred.

Then I though, why did Keystone mount the power plug on the back of the camper??? and not closer to the center of the camper. I know it shouldn't be near the water inlet, but still.

Has anyone thought about putting another electrical inlet close to the basement so the cable could just come through the basement and into the power panel. Maybe some kind of switch to be able to pick which inlet to use. Or, just a junction box and tie the 2 inlets together, but then the unused one would be live at the same time.

Any thoughts?????

 
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:51 PM   #2
bncinwv
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On our old rig (3400RL) I installed an alternative receptacle on the front of the rig next to the battery compartment door. The rig was equipped with an automatic transfer switch which was also located in the battery box. The main reason we installed the receptacle was to enable us to use a generator in transit. This allowed us to run the air conditioner since the pets were crated and travelled in the rig. If you install another receptacle, I strongly recommend an automatic transfer switch be part of the installation. I would not recommend a live unused receptacle as part of any installation. By the way, when I hardwired out EMS it only took about an hour. Most campgrounds have the power pedestal at the back of the sites which is why on almost all rigs the receptacle is in the back.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:56 PM   #3
Ozz
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Hi Tom,
I think it is a great idea to have an outlet in front, the cost for the proper install is not cheap. I did it because I wanted a second location for the generators to plug in. I don't know if I would have gone to the trouble and expense if I just wanted a second Plug-in location. You want an automatic transfer switch (Best way) for safety, the either-or deal.
I just went with a 30 amp plug. They are called 'Park power' by the plug I chose, maybe others make one besides Marinco. This accepts a Marine type screw on do-dad that keeps it weather tight, but you don't have to use that, I didn't.

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Old 02-12-2011, 01:09 AM   #4
NCFischers
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Tom,
I've wired several portable units in trailers as you described. You can use a stove outlet and stove cord. there should be enough slack in the power wire to get the job done. The advantage to doing it this way is that if the EMS takes a sacrificial hit and stops working, you can easily bypass it temporarily until it can be replaced.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:20 AM   #5
H. John Kohl
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I went with the wired EMS with the remote display. I like to be able to see what is happening inside the trailer. I followed Jim F. (ncfischers) advice and added stove plugs and sockets so I could by pass my EMS or add the autoformer. If you installed your hardwired system this way you would need two sockets and one plug pigtail.

You could buy the hard wired one and add the pigtail and socket until it warms up for full install. Yes I support the hard wire model and remote display.

Either way any EMS is better than none.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:08 AM   #6
RickW
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I have a 30A twist and lock in the front of the trailer (opposite corner of the factory 50A). I picked this location because when the trailer is at the house it is the closest corner to my 30A receptacle here at the house. We use the 30A receptacle more than I thought I would. If the site only has 30A service I will use the 30A over the 50A w/dogbone. I will also use the 30A if I know we will not need 50A. Why drag out the big cord if I don't need it.

I also strongly advise the use of a Transfer Switch. There are manual transfer switches but you do not see them often and the price difference is minimal.

While I have not had any problems with the EMS that is not a bad idea to put quick connects/receptacles in the event you have a problem. But I do think I would use a twist and lock type of receptacle to ensure they did not come unplugged unexpectedly.
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:48 AM   #7
oldelmer1
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Thanks everyone, I think you have persuaded me to go with the hardwired one.

Now, with a transfer switch, doing a google search, it looks like they are a breaker panel. I was expecting some kind of a switch that you would move when power is coming in from 1 direction.

How do y'all have them installed and wired up? Any suggestions on brands & models?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:04 AM   #8
bncinwv
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Here is what came OEM in our new rig. The previous rig had an IOTA brand transfer switch. Installation is simple once you decide on the location. In our 3750, it was installed behind a partition board in the basement.

Automatic Transfer Switch

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Old 02-13-2011, 09:05 AM   #9
H. John Kohl
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My generator prepped came with the IOTA ITS-50R which is the auto switching between pedestal or generator power.
This ITS-50R manual has some great ideas for adding inverters etc.
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Old 02-13-2011, 10:52 AM   #10
7.3Ford
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Trying something new here to post pictures using Picasa. This is my installation of my EMS-HW50C Electrical Management System.



EMS-HW50C Electrical Management System black box in back. IOTA ITS-50R Transfer Switch black box in front



EMS Display Panel top and Power Switch to Stock Convert so I can turn off when running on the Inverter.

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Old 02-14-2011, 05:58 AM   #11
RickW
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There is not an actual switch that you manually have to throw or set if you have a Automatic Transfer Switch. Very easy to wire. Basically two inputs and 1 output. The inputs are shore power and generator power. The output then connects to your breaker box. The generator input has priority over your shore power input. Typically there is a delay of about 20 seconds on most transfer switches on the generator side. Basically once power is detected on the generator side the timer starts. This allows the generator to level out before a load is applied.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:15 AM   #12
oldelmer1
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Quote:
quote:[i]Originally posted by Ricki]

Basically two inputs and 1 output.
Ahhh, just like an A/B switch, but automatic.

THANKS...

I think this is definitely on my TO DO list, as soon as I figure out where my power wire comes into the breaker panel. And all the mud dries up a bit so I don't get yelled at for tracking it everywhere.

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!!!
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:53 AM   #13
RickW
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Exactly like a A/B switch.

I have not looked at the mechnical side of the 3150 but on my 3400 the shore power comes in and can be found under the stairs. That is also where I located the other end of the generator pre-wire. Remove the access panel in the basement that give you access to under the stairs. I think you will find what you are looking for there. On mine they left plenty of power cord in anticipation of installing a transfer switch as well as EMS. I did not need to purchase any additional wire.
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