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11-02-2010, 07:59 PM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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Playing around with my new to me 2000 Montana...
I looked through the books that came with it but never really found anything like an actual owners manual. Was wondering if the heater switch on the tank reporting panel on the wall behind the stove was for heaters down below and what was the best way to make sure they were working. I just figured out I have a washing machine and not much time left to do the winterizing properly. I'll heat it up tomorrow when it drops below 28 degrees for a short while but I need to make sure of what does what. I have it in my own driveway right now just getting things the way I want them. I'd hate to heat it for much longer so I'll have to come up with the proper way to winterize the front loading Maytag.
Thanks... Gary
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11-03-2010, 01:34 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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I believe you will find the "heater" switch is for the water heater. It turns on the propane circuitry. There are no heaters down below.
I hope this helps.
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11-03-2010, 02:30 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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Tanks are not heated. You have a 2 inch heat tube that puts hot air in the basement when the furnace is running. You need to put antifreeze in the water lines or blow the lines out with air. You should find an access panel inside the unit by the hot water heater and there you should find a valve to bypass the hot water heater and another valve to engage a line that will suck antifreeze from a container (using the on-baord water pump) through the water lines. You also need to drain the water heater and if you have a washer you will need to run the rinse cycle to draw the antifreeze through those lines. You also need to put some antifreeze in the traps and in the holding tanks. f you've never done this before you may want to get someone familiar with the process to show you.
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11-03-2010, 03:09 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vermontville
Posts: 1,129
M.O.C. #9045
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I agree with Steve, if you have never done it then by all means find someone that has or take it to a dealer. This is one mistake you don't want to make. Frozen or broken lines are expensive and very time comsuming to fix. Lot cheaper to have it done and maybe watch how they do it.
Dave
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11-03-2010, 04:05 AM
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#5
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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I've done it plenty of times both with antifreeze and the last 3 years with air. My biggest concern here was what the switch was for since my last camper didn't have that or at least that I remember since I used the electric at the campground exclusively for the water heater and I didn't know what it was for. I guess I still need a little instruction on the switch. Do you just turn it on and then go outside to make sure things are lighting as they should?
My second question was really if any of you ever store your unit when it has a washing machine in it and what kind of things do you need to do to the washer to get it winterized? Can you leave any antifreeze in its final cycle? The manufacturer recommends one final wash full of bleach before stowing away but says nothing about the winterizing.
Thanks... Gary
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11-03-2010, 04:20 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Winfield
Posts: 7,327
M.O.C. #6846
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Gary,
Our washer is a splendide but the procedure should be about the same. If you have hot and cold water feed into the washer, you have to cycle through both hot and cold wash for a couple of minutes and make sure there is pink stuff in the washer bowl. Then go to the rinse cycle to get the pink stuff into the washer internal drains. There are two separate ways to do this. For the splendide washers, detailed instructions are obtainable on their website: Splendide.com. I would think it would give you the basic information that you need. Your water heater has two switches, the electric one is usually inside the outside panel (on the side of the rig) and should always be in the off position unless there is water in the heater. The inside switch can be used either as stand-alone propane hot water heat or in conjunction with the electric switch to provide faster heating cycles. We typically only use the electric side since we figure the electric is included in the site charges.
Bingo
__________________
Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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11-03-2010, 04:33 AM
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#7
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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Thanks for all the answers and especially the washer answer. Of late I've been using air set at 40 psi and running all my water until I feel it doesn't give up any water after repeated off and ons. Then pour antifreeze into all the drains to get into the traps. On the washer it sounds like I need to hear air on fill and then throw a gallon into it on wash and rinse to get into any water trapping areas. Any surprises using air out there? I like to go out in the winter and the antifreeze really slows that up.
Any other thoughts on my procedures would be welcome. I have no water in the reserve tank either.
Thanks.. Gary
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11-03-2010, 04:51 AM
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#8
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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I did call Maytag and they told me to add one quart after I heard the air coming in on both cold and hot water. Then run it for at least 30 seconds on drain and spin.
Thanks... Gary
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11-03-2010, 04:53 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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Did you drain water from your low point drains underneath the back of the coach?
Did you open all faucet valves to let air in to help drain the the water lines?
Did you drain water out of the water heater?
Did you drain your fresh water holding tank?
Did you leave the low point drain open when blowing air in the rig?
Did you put antifreeze in the traps and holding tanks?
If yes to the above - I would guess you're OK
The washer I am not sure about perhaps somebody will provide instructions
Good Luck!
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11-03-2010, 05:01 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Winfield
Posts: 7,327
M.O.C. #6846
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I have always used the pink stuff, so I really can't comment on the air approach. What you are saying sounds fine and parallels the second procedure in the Splendide manual. I personally don't know if there are any pumps on the intake side in the washer itself that the air would fail to get the water out of??? Here is what splendide says:
To winterize your washer-dryer
1)With machine power OFF, pour ½ quart of RV-type antifreeze into washer drum
2)Close door. Advance Program Dial to a ‘Spin’ position
3)Press ON-OFF Button (IN). Wait 1-2 minutes
4)Press ON-OFF Button (OUT). Unplug washer-dryer from electrical outlet (or disconnect power)
5)Turn water supply faucets OFF. Disconnect inlet hoses from faucets. Drain remaining water from the hoses. FINISHED.
Optional RV Winterization - If currently pumping antifreeze through a fresh water system
1)With machine power OFF, turn WASH TEMP knob to HOT
2)Advance Program Dial to cycle 3
3)Press ON-OFF button (IN). Let machine fill until antifreeze is in the drum
4)Advance Program Dial to ‘RESET’. Wait 5 seconds
5)Advance Program Dial to a ‘Spin’ position. Let the antifreeze drain from the drum
6)Advance Program Dial to ‘RESET’. Wait 5 seconds.
7)Press the ON-OFF button (OUT)
8)Turn WASH TEMP knob to COLD
9)Repeat steps 2 through 7. FINISHED.
To use again, Flush water pipes, then
1)Reconnect water inlet hoses to corresponding HOT/COLD faucets. Turn faucets ON. NOTE: Check water inlet hoses and pump periodically (see Users
Guide).
2)Plug washer-dryer in to appropriate electrical outlet
(see Users Guide) - or reconnect power supply
3)With ON-OFF button in the OFF (OUT) position, pour ½ TBSP. of powder detergent (or liquid equiv.) into the ‘Detergent’ compartment inside the Dispenser Drawer (see Users Guide).
4)Advance Program Dial to cycle 4
5)Press ON-OFF button (IN). Allow machine to run through complete cycle to clean out any remaining
antifreeze. FINISHED.
Hope this helps further,
Bingo
__________________
Bingo and Cathy - Our adventures begin in the hills of WV. We are blessed by our 2014 3850FL Big Sky (previous 2011 3750FL and 2007 3400RL) that we pull with a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic DRW CC dually.
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11-03-2010, 05:41 AM
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#11
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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Can you elaborate on the sentence "Did you drain water from your low point drains underneath the back of the coach?" What are you referring to as the back of the coach. I have the 3255RL where the kitchen sink is near the door in the middle.
Leaving here for now but look forward to more reading when I return.
Gary
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11-03-2010, 05:53 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Belvidere
Posts: 1,834
M.O.C. #185
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You have water drains (low point) somewhere under the coach. All my Montana's I've owned had the drains under the back left side. I am not familiar with your model but just look underneath the coach and find them. There should be 3 drains...one for the hot water line...one for the cold water line and...one for the fresh water tank.
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11-03-2010, 06:21 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hudson
Posts: 480
M.O.C. #2446
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They are clear tubing with white plastic caps hanging just below the underbelly insulation.
On my 3255 They are located two (Hot and Cold) by the stairs (on the left) near the front tire. The other holding tank drain is almost exactly opposite near the left front tire.
Keep them on until after you have blown out your lines and then remove them to expel any water in them. The holding tank drain you can remove whenever since your compressed air operation has no effect on the holding tank.
I also pull out the zinc Anode rod in the hot water heater to make sure it is drained. You may find yours is in need of replacing.
__________________
Chris Donna and Oliver the rescue Dog.
Old 3255RL It is a weekend warrior and less than 15K miles. Mostly sits at the house. Home is where the heart is.
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11-03-2010, 11:37 AM
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#14
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint Charles
Posts: 86
M.O.C. #10832
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Thanks for the information. I just changed the anode rod when I replaced the element. Appreciate all of the information.
Gary
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11-03-2010, 01:56 PM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Oakland
Posts: 887
M.O.C. #5811
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You have received a lot of good information about winterizing, but you might also check out the Keystone Video Library site, a good site for new Montana owners. One of the videos is how to winterize your Montana.
http://www.keystonerv.com/?page=video_library
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