Water Hose Quick Disconnect

[Camp CA]

While living on a powerboat a few years ago I installed potable water quick disconnect fittings for fear of filling the boat up with water and sinking it. Everytime, we left the boat we would turn the water off and disconnect the water hose. We have the same set up on our sailboat today.

Hate the time it takes to screw both potable and black tank water hoses into the trailer water connections and ensure they are leak tight, sometimes requiring channellock pliers. Solved that with quick connect fittings. Now set-up connections are fast without leaks and shortens the tear-down duration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaUkMkpyGaE

Does anyone else use these? Do you any other set-up/tear-down tricks?

[Texan]

I have the brass couplers from A.M. Leonard and they are great. They are fairly expensive at 14.78 per set for male and female connection . They have a 10% off sale that ends today which would put them at about 13.30 per set . They should last many years compared to the plastic ones. They are drinking water safe and i have had them for about 3 years with no leaks. They are very easy to connect and disconnect when using a little silicone . I bought a pack of o-rings for the connectors. These may not be the best but they have a 5 star rating and are better than anything you could buy at Home Depot or Lowe's.

[Carl n Susan]

I have been using the same brass quick connects for 7 years and they are the greatest!

[Jamesb]

Using all the gadgets for quick connects makes life simple, but what I have noticed is that some cheaper ones really restrict the water. The internal hole diameter is very small, almost twice as small as the hose. Just something to be aware of.

[DQDick]

All my water connections have been quick disconnects for the last 10 years of full timing with no problems. All of them are brass.

[CaptnJohn]

I have them on all my water connections, so much easier and faster!

[1retired06]

Same here, and use the brass, plastic ones don't hold up as well.

[Camp CA]

Thanks for everyone's experience on this feature!!

[Dave W]

I have the A.M. Leonard quick disconnects as well for our RV. They are full flow but don't have a shut off feature on disconnecting some of the others have.



I've used others that are just brass colored aluminum from Home Depot/Lowe's - IMO, don't! They can corrode solidly on anything brass. I had to use a pipe wrench on one at the S&B to remove it from the hose bib then cut the end off the hose and use a brass repair coupler. I do have a couple plastic ones that I use on a seldom used hose but wouldn't trust it for long term RV usage or the main hose bib for vehicle washing

[DPGator]

There is a question here..... When I disconnect the hoses (either flush or drinking water) I connect the M/F ends together to quit dripping/leaking in my storage bins. I've used the HD disconnects and agree they aren't the best but i loved the concept, at first. So at setup, I find myself having to screw the female end of the hose on the hose bib, screw a quick connect on the M end of the hose and then do a quick connect to the appropriate quick connect on the either the flush of city water inlet which I left permanently mounted. That seemed like an extra step so I removed the quick connects. So to the question.....other than not connecting the hoses end to end at teardown and leaving the quick connects in place has anyone come up with clever solution to be able to leave the quick connects in place AND stop any incidental dripping from the hoses?

[Camp CA]

Originally Posted by DPGator

...........So to the question.....other than not connecting the hoses end to end at teardown and leaving the quick connects in place has anyone come up with cnnel lolever solution to be able to leave the quick connects in place AND stop any incidental dripping from the hoses?

Not sure if this answers the question but will try. We Ieave the main water and flush tank quick connects at the trailer and their companion hoses in place with teflon tape to ensure the connections are leak tight. That minumlzes set up and teardown time and avoids the need for a channel lock plyers to tighten.

On our sailboat we have quick disconnects at both the boat and prinary marina berrh shore water supply.

[Texan]

Like Camp Ca said. I leave the male end on the rv for the fresh tank and black tank and the female end on the fresh and black tank hoses. You can reverse the fittings between hose and rv as it really doesn't matter. Using the teflon tape when you install the fittings you are done as there is no reason to ever remove the fittings. I haven't had any problem with drips but that could be because i use A.M. Leonard quality fittings.

[laverdur]

I've been using brass QD fittings for years. The only problem is that a QD fitting that stays connected will eventually damage the washer that seals the connection and it will leak. I found a source for a bunch of replacement washers so I'm good to go.

[CT Wanderer]

Originally Posted by DPGator

There is a question here..... When I disconnect the hoses (either flush or drinking water) I connect the M/F ends together to quit dripping/leaking in my storage bins. I've used the HD disconnects and agree they aren't the best but i loved the concept, at first. So at setup, I find myself having to screw the female end of the hose on the hose bib, screw a quick connect on the M end of the hose and then do a quick connect to the appropriate quick connect on the either the flush of city water inlet which I left permanently mounted. That seemed like an extra step so I removed the quick connects. So to the question.....other than not connecting the hoses end to end at teardown and leaving the quick connects in place has anyone come up with clever solution to be able to leave the quick connects in place AND stop any incidental dripping from the hoses?

I do the same thing with my fresh water hose. But I'll add another reason why. I couple the ends together when I coil it up is to keep the ends of the hose clean. If there were any contamination on the hose fitting when you reconnect it at setup it would then contaminate the trailer potable water system. For those using the QC fittings, how do you keep the ends clean?

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by CT Wanderer

I do the same thing with my fresh water hose. But I'll add another reason why. I couple the ends together when I coil it up is to keep the ends of the hose clean. If there were any contamination on the hose fitting when you reconnect it at setup it would then contaminate the trailer potable water system. For those using the QC fittings, how do you keep the ends clean?

About $2 end guards are available. Before putting away and again when prepping for use Clorox wipes. I roll it up on a reel like used for my cord. CW has them 1/2 off now.

[DCHuts]

I have used them for years, with no problems. Pipe tape keeps them from leaking.

[CT Wanderer]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

About $2 end guards are available. Before putting away and again when prepping for use Clorox wipes. I roll it up on a reel like used for my cord. CW has them 1/2 off now.

Can you provide more info on the end guards. Can't find them on CW site.

[Rsmarlow82]

I use metal quick connect for city water connections. I bought at Walmart, but other places carry like Rural King, and similar farm supply stores.

At the end of my supply hose, just prior to my water filter ( I use the replaceable home type unit) I installed a "Y" with shutoffs... . (1) outlet goes to a shutoff valve in front of the filter unit.. These connections are all with metal quick connect
The other outlet of the "Y" I installed plastic quickcouplers, a short hose, another quickcoupler, a (1) way "plastic" check valve, and then a connection to the "black tank cleaner" connection..



By using plastic on all connections and hoses for the "black water side" , and metal for the "city water side" , I can keep them sanitary and separated..


Woks for me.

[DebNJim B]

I have a "Y" connector with four outlets that I screw to the water supply at the park when I set up. That is my only "manual" connection. The Y is set up with quick connects and a back flush stop for the black tank flush hose. This allows me to connect all my hoses together when stored to protect and prevent drips. I use brass full flow for the supply water and plastic connectors for the flush hose so I can't mix them up. I also have a 10' hose with a nozzle if I need to wash something down. I also store all potable hose and fittings in a separate sealed container to minimize contamination. Use saniwipes at set up for a quick cleaning and the set up goes very nice and quick.

[DPGator]

Originally Posted by DebNJim B

I have a "Y" connector with four outlets that I screw to the water supply at the park when I set up. That is my only "manual" connection. The Y is set up with quick connects and a back flush stop for the black tank flush hose. This allows me to connect all my hoses together when stored to protect and prevent drips. I use brass full flow for the supply water and plastic connectors for the flush hose so I can't mix them up. I also have a 10' hose with a nozzle if I need to wash something down. I also store all potable hose and fittings in a separate sealed container to minimize contamination. Use saniwipes at set up for a quick cleaning and the set up goes very nice and quick.

I knew someone had a clever solution to my dilemma. Hats off to Jim B and a big thank you.