Water Pumps in 2007's quieter?

[JimF]

Some second thoughts on this, my DW just pointed out to me that afer we changed cg's the problem did go away, or decrease to an acceptable level. I have a pressure guage in line and at the 1st cg the city water was 75 psi until you turned on the water, then it dropped to 15 or so. At the next cg the pressure was 45 psi and turning on the water cause it to drop about 4 psi or to 41 psi. It may very well be a cg problem with corroded water lines or valves. The pressure doesn't tell the whole story, you also need a flow rate.

[sreigle]

Both of those situations sound like the CG water supply is weak. I've also had times where a water pressure regulator restricts the flow more than it probably should. Sometimes it's after extended use, like a year or so, and it's probably crudded up. A new regulator restored pressure. Other times a brand new regulator didn't meet my pressure expectations so I returned it and exchanged for another and again the problem was solved.

I don't like the 40-45 psi fixed pressure regulators anyhow. I have an adjustable I bought from Lowe's, with hose adapters, and set mine at around 55 psi or so. On our 2003 Montana I could go to 57 psi but at 58 it would blow flush water out of the toilet bowl. This Montana has a different toilet so I don't know where that limit is.

Camping World also has an adjustable water pressure regulator for about $40. I had one for several years until I wore it out or screwed it up (not sure which). It did a good job. If you are in CW, they're usually in a box and not well labeled. Hard to find on the shelf, in other words.

[JimF]

I have been looking for an adjustable regulator, my experience on the 3400 has been without regulator as my old one stopped the flow so I have purchased 3 different ones (The last one being a high flow rate regulator) and I do not have enough flow to evey take a shower with it installed. So I use a pressure guage and hope it's not to much pressure. There is something definately wrong be it regulator or an obstruction.

[dsprik]

I'm having the same problems, Jim. Let me know if you discover something about flow restriction.

[dmr1021]

I have a 2007 and have noticed all of the above.

I noticed that my water pump was screwed directly to the deck, transferring any vibration to the RV. I also noticed that the water hoses are 'hard' not flexible and the hoses leading to/from the pump were against other hoses. I bought some of the foam weather stripping (cheap and water resistant) that is used around window A/C units. I cut 2 strips to put under the pump and ran the mounting screws through it. I tore the rest into smaller strips and used it to separate the touching hoses. It made a BIG difference in the noise level.

[dmr1021]

Almost forgot...the water 'pipes' seemed heavy duty so I called Keystone. They said no water pressure regulator was required. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and enjoying good non-pump water pressure.

[dsprik]

Interesting comment on the "no press regulator" from Keystone. I tend to believe that. The connections would be suspect though, as there have been several instances of Old World Craftsman sometimes not tightening these critical areas (mine were all tight, though). Also... all ads I've seen on damage due to high press was to the EXTERNAL white water hose. However, I have heard of campers complain of busted internal hoses, too.

Wonder what year Montana went to this internal plumbing that could withstand greater pressures? Couldn't have always been that way...

Also, I tore into my water lines the day before yesterday. What a complicated mess. I unhooked my inlet. Took the screen/gasket out. Looked to be a little plugged. Hooked directly into hoses on the back side, and tried to see if there was any press diff. Couldn't find much, but I could only unhook in a couple places. If I want to try more connections, I'm going to have to go to a hardware store and pick up different connectors (reducers) and the caps to cap off some T's.

Could be a complicated, day long procedure. BTW, almost impossible not to end up lying in water in the basement after eventually pressuring up the system, shutting the system down to unhook and re-hook in different areas.

I hooked everything back up, except for the screen/washer right at the inlet in the shore station. Seems to be marginally better press inside, but the press coming out of the hose does not come close to matching the press at any faucet. I'd guess at approx 1/3 the output, but sometimes just barely a trickle.

I will also mention that I was so consumed with playing with the lines that I did not take a real good look at my pump. Starting to get pretty good at popping the shield out of the basement area (no, I'm not volunteering to do this for someone else...). Maybe I'll go back in and focus on the pump.

Another thing. I have noticed that ever since I accidently ran the back pressure on my pump and it started misbehaving, that now, every time my fresh water tank gets below 1/3 full, it does start making that loud noise. Still pumps water, though. Apparently, it has to have a certain hydrostatic press (water depth in the tank) to keep it operating properly (and quietly).

Another "another thing": My black tank back flush fills MUCH faster (different hose - but shouldn't make any difference) than my "powerfill" of my fresh water tank. In Oct, I was running off of my fresh water tank by refilling it when empty. It took about 15-20 min. Here it took me 45 min to completely fill. I can tell by listening that there is a big difference between the backflush volume going through that line and the powerfill volume.

Maybe I should just call Keystone, huh???

Oh, did I mention that I'm not a plumber???