Extra Winterization Tips - Montana Owners Club

dieselguy · 10-25-2006, 02:19 PM

I've always used the hot water heater bypass and have pumped RV antifreeze through my system starting from the farthest point away from the pump and working my way back ... then pouring some extra down all the drain traps. Last year I realized I have been missing 2 or 3 lines. The black tank clean-out line, the city water line with the check valve, and a pre-plumbed line that goes to the outside shower that my unit doesn't have. I've just been lucky not to have burst a line, but I do address these areas now in my winterization process. Just a thought for those of you who might have pre-plumbed lines for that washer that you don't have. With the caps tight, I'm guessing that there will be enough vaccuum to keep water in these lines even if you do open the low point drains first ... unless you loosen the caps when draining. Perhaps you'll have to get a bucket and remove the caps on the ends of the lines and run the pump till the antifreeze runs out just to be sure. In the Spring ... antifreeze will stay in the dead ended lines if not drained and could contaminate the rest of your water lines. If I'm wrong here, please post your ideas.

ken · 10-25-2006, 03:36 PM

Kansas we do the same thing as you do. I do blow out the lines with 80 lbs of pressure before I add the antifreeze. Thelines are capable up to 90 lbs pressure. By blowing out the lines it takes care of the intake waterline and check valve and I do the same with the back flush line on the black tank. The outside shower I run antifreeze thru it on both hot and cold sides. We also have a washer/dryer that I run antifreeze thru first. A little in the drum on the warm setting so both hot and cold push the antifreeze into the washer, then I run the rinse so it will go thru the pump into the black water tank. I have been doing this since 99 with three different RVs without any problems. The two drains under the trailer are opened when blowing out the lines, then closed and refilled with antifreeze along with the rest of the lines.

noneck · 10-25-2006, 03:41 PM

Dieselguy, Good points, I'm still having problem figuring out how to clear the "extra" hot water line as you indicate was for outside shower which my unit does not have. It does not appear to be connected to hot water output but need to do some more digging. I would perfer to air purge this one as it is pretty much a dead leg. I know this as I winterized and this line is still not "pink" but does have liquid. Guess I need to purchase a hand-pump to allow loading pink stuff into those two other locations you point out...city water inlet and black water tank flush.
I do not air purge any of my water lines as I feel it necessary to keep the "pink" stuff in there for long winter months as a disinfectant as standing water will grow bacteria and air purge will still leave traces of water. Thanks,

Ozzie · 10-25-2006, 03:52 PM

I also pull the water pump and accumulator as well. Last year I left the pump in and when I was readying the rig for the next season, the pump was dead. I'm not sure why it died, but after pulling the current pump, it did still have water in it.

bsmeaton · 10-25-2006, 08:03 PM

Dieselguy -

I have never worried about the potty flush line, as I assumed it self drains into the black tank after you use it. I haven't had a freeze so far here in CO, but I could be wrong and just lucky. I'd be interested to hear what others do.

I've only got two capped lines, (drains out the belly) and I didn't notice them the first two years I de-winterized. I'm sure the residual antifreeze in there recontaminates the lines as I noticed one day that they were still pink. I now pull the plugs when I flush the system out.

dieselguy · 10-26-2006, 02:14 AM

Brad ... I thought the same as you about the black tank flush line: however: if you blow low pressure air through the line, you'll find water still inside between the garden hose fitting and the infamous backflow valve under your sink.
As for those of us who have pre-plumbed lines that go to options we don't have, I just took the shower lines off at the Tees where they come off the main feed line and capped them off there ... I won't ever have the outside shower option anyways.

Wrenchtraveller · 10-26-2006, 02:57 AM

I may be wrong but if you leave the pump off, open your two low point drains and turn on the hot and cold taps furthest away from the low point drains, your lines should drain even if they do dead end.

I do this before I pump the pink and I followed the directions for winterizing the Splendide washer/dryer.

I also used my compressor to blow out the black water flush system even though I would think they should be designed to drain empty.

The PEX plastic water lines used in our Montanas will take a little more frost than some of the plumbing in the older campers. I had a glavanized "T" split on me years ago in my 74 Vanguard.

Also an appliance guy told me with front load machines, it is a good idea to store them with the front door open a bit so I do that too. Not sure how important it is because my Splendide is vented to the outside.

Mudchief · 10-26-2006, 08:56 AM

Brad, when I blow my lines out I hold down the foot pedal so it blows any water out of the valve in the stool.

bsmeaton · 10-27-2006, 03:13 PM

I do run the antifreeze through the toilet water line, but guess I better recheck that tank flush line to see if it holds water on mine. Just got back from New Mexico on business tonight and theres already a foot of snow on the ground

.

Thanks guys

DONnANNIE · 10-27-2006, 10:50 PM

When you talk of using an air compressor to blow the lines out, how do you do that? Today I tried to get a compressor type quick release fitting, but all they had was a valve core in a brass fitting that screwed into the "City Water" connection.

Should I just use the valve core or get or make quick release fitting so I can connect the compressor to the water connection? If I use the valve core, I need two people, one to apply air to the system and the 2nd to open/close faucets.

Wrenchtraveller · 10-28-2006, 03:52 AM

To blow the city inlet valve out I have the little adapter that screws onto the city water fitting. This will not allow a tire filling tool to work as it has no valve stem but I have a little air nozzle I hold in there and give a couple of shots of air to empty that line. Everyhing else is full of the pink stuff.

bsmeaton · 10-28-2006, 06:37 AM

For those that blow the lines with air - what pressure do you use? I think I might try that on the city connect and tank flush.

Brad

Cat320 · 10-28-2006, 02:37 PM

My fitting that screws onto the city water connection has the valve stem that will take a standard air pressure fixture. I use a small 12v pump from WalMart, turn it on and let it run as I go from faucet to faucet starting with the one farthest away.

Ozzie · 10-28-2006, 02:52 PM

I have been blowing my lines out for several years. I have a couple different air compressors, but I find that one with at least a pancake tank will have more reserve once you start opening valves up to blow them out.
First, I open all the faucets, both clean out and overflow valve on the water heater, and low point drains. Let it all run dry.
Then I close it back up and hook up the air compressor. I let the pressure build first with everything closed set at 20-25 lbs. Once the pressure has built, I start with the furthest away, let it run clean, and work back towards the source.
Once you open a line up, it can run the pressure down fast if you don't have a large enough air tank.
I have made several fittings...garden hose adapter on one end, air fitting on the other, with a piece of hose and hose clamp.
After it's all blown out, I put pink in the sink traps (a little extra for each tank) and a gallon or two in the black. You don't want that black sitting dry in case there's something left on the bottom...then open it all up again and pull the pump and accumulator (if you have one).

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