light switch getting hot

[herewegotogether]

We have a 2011 3455sa the living room light switch that controls the 4 ceiling lights (12 volt) is getting hot when turned on. I have to assume a loose wire unless someone chimes in on something different. Myy question is how do you remove the switch plate to check the wire connections?

Thanks for your help.
Bill and Laurie

[racerjoe]

If there are no exposed screws, it should pop out if you can get something behind it. It could be a poorly made switch too.

[mhs4771]

Those ceiling lights can draw alot of current depending on the bulbs used. If you have the wedge base 921s each bulb draws 1 1/2 amps, guess at least 2 bulbs per fixture time four fixtures would draw 12 amps. Quite a bit for those cheap switches. I'm in the process of changing out mine for LED's a little pricy so I'm only doing a few at a time. Less current draw an no heat.

[snfexpress]

We changed out our 12v switches for ones from Radio Shack (we liked the construction and that they are illuminated). We also went to LED for about $9 per bulb that are halogen 20 watt equivalent. We were replacing the halogens about every 6 months at about $3 per bulb, so we feel we are ahead. And, we draw much less amperage and this is a bonus when we are boondocking.

[CORattler]

I like the way you did that! I prefer illuminated switches as well. No guessing as to whether the circuit is powered.

quote:Originally posted by snfexpress

We changed out our 12v switches for ones from Radio Shack (we liked the construction and that they are illuminated). We also went to LED for about $9 per bulb that are halogen 20 watt equivalent. We were replacing the halogens about every 6 months at about $3 per bulb, so we feel we are ahead. And, we draw much less amperage and this is a bonus when we are boondocking.

[Ozz]

Bill, Racerjoe is right on,
Nice job Michael.

[Desert RVer]

The internal switch contacts probably have become burned and too resistive. Current squared x resistance equal watts = heat. I suspect the switch assembly will have to be pried(popped) out. See if you can find out what the current rating is on the old switch and then try to find a compatible switch with at least 2 to 3 times that rating with hopefully gold contacts. Probably the switch installed by the RV manufacturer was the cheapest they could find. A good quality, higher priced switch will probably solve the problem. The switch contacts will continue to get worse causing more heat creating a frie hazard. Replace at your earliest convenience.