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Old 01-22-2020, 03:27 PM   #1
Nedbrod
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Angry The dreaded 'Ll op' code on reefer

Well I just got the dreaded "Ll op" code on my Norcold 2128 reefer. I looked in on the control panel as indicated by so many previous threads but found that the little red led was not lit. I did the magnet trick on the control as recommended anyways but didn't hear any click from the control. I'm getting 12v on the positive terminal of the control and the temp sensor is showing continuity but still getting the blasted code. Any ideas on what else to look at? Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:27 PM   #2
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I think its really op LI, which according to the manual is open limit switch and it also said this is not owner serviceable. I would try turning it off for a while and then turn it back on to see if it will reset. Other than that, you might have to bring it in to have it checked.
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Old 01-22-2020, 08:32 PM   #3
Nedbrod
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I had a feeling that it would be a sensor related problem. I am concerned about this controller apparently having a cutoff point around 800 degrees. I read something about an ARP unit that works at 400 degree maximum. Is this a replacement or something additional to install? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-22-2020, 10:55 PM   #4
MARK A
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It takes a pretty strong magnet, and I had to slide mine around to get it to reset. More toward the bottom.



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Old 01-23-2020, 06:35 PM   #5
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My relay switch went inoperative last fall, due to moisture in the relay switch. I talked to someone on the phone for repairs and he told me to by-pass it with the magnet or just directly connect the two wires. The thermistor probe in the heat stack was the safety item and doing a bypass doesn't affect the rest of the circuitry, as long as you are sure there is no other malfunctioning aspect to your Fridge. I was on a road trip back home for 7 days and needed the refer. I ran it at night while parked and turned it off during our 6 to 8 hour drive and then back on that night. After using a hair dryer to dry out at home and then put the relay back to normal setup, it worked fine . I also ordered a replacement from eBay and have that as a spare. If you open the relay box up and look at the circuit board, you are able to see the tiny micro switch on the board.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Nedbrod View Post
I had a feeling that it would be a sensor related problem. I am concerned about this controller apparently having a cutoff point around 800 degrees. I read something about an ARP unit that works at 400 degree maximum. Is this a replacement or something additional to install? Any help is greatly appreciated.
The ARP device monitors the boiler temperature and if it exceeds the setting of less than 400 degrees, it shuts off the fridge for an hour to allow the boiler to cool. It then turns the fridge back on and if the boiler stays in the safe zone the ARP device will just continue to monitor as usual. Weve had an ARP device on our fridge for almost 5 years now and the fridge is still working great. This is the ARP site. www.arprv.com
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Old 01-24-2020, 03:26 PM   #7
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You got that code because the fridge system was at the upper limit for safety, usually due to crystallization of the chemicals within the piping on the fridges backside, failure of the exhaust fans leading to overheating, etc. Bypassing the safety will continue to overheat the chemicals and piping. Any weakness in the piping from the caustic nature of the chemicals can lead to a rupture and the dreaded rv fire. I strongly suggest you not bypass the safety. Not being able to do a reset is telling you that you have an issue that needs to be corrected by a qualified fridge repair tech. If you had felt the piping at the time, you would have noticed that it was extremely hot if checked soon after the fault happened. Be prepared to have to buy a new heating system and any thing found by the repairman of lesser cost will thrill you.
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Old 01-25-2020, 03:56 PM   #8
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Rohrmann, I have found a high temp sensor mounted on the fins of the upper coil that is open. I put a temporary jumper across it and tried the frig again. The fans came on immediately but the unit is still showing the op Ll code and as before the LED on the norcold box is out. At this time I'm thinking that the box is shot. Do you need to keep this thing or will the ARP unit replace it? The ARP seems to be the right way to go.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:01 PM   #9
Carl n Susan
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I thought there was a long warrantee on that detection box after all the troubles that had before. You might call them and ask. I think a local Norcold repair guy willl come and fix it.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:02 PM   #10
Nedbrod
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Jcurtis934, I'm not thinking that the problem was an overheat issue as a temp sensor went on the upper coil and without it the fans don't run. I think the norcold temp control is bad although I have no idea what the continuity reading should be for the boiler stack sensor. Still no red light on the control but jumped the coil temp sensor and now the fans run but still getting op Ll code.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:03 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info Carl n Susan. Guess I'll call Norcold on Monday and see what they have to say.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nedbrod View Post
Rohrmann, I have found a high temp sensor mounted on the fins of the upper coil that is open. I put a temporary jumper across it and tried the frig again. The fans came on immediately but the unit is still showing the op Ll code and as before the LED on the norcold box is out. At this time I'm thinking that the box is shot. Do you need to keep this thing or will the ARP unit replace it? The ARP seems to be the right way to go.
You will have two black boxes, the Norcold control box, and also what is referred to as a recall device. Even on new fridges there will be a recall device, and this is what shuts the fridge down when the temperature of the boiler gets into the danger zone. It can usually be reset with a magnet, but when the liquid inside the unit has gotten too hot, the fridge usually will not work as well as when new. The ARP device is totally independent of the fridge circuitry and has its own temperature sensor on the boiler. Once the ARP device sees the temperature above its set temperature, it stops power from going to the fridge control. After an hour, it will automatically turn power back on to the fridge control box so the fridge will begin cooling again. The ARP device is not a fridge control so it does not replace the Norcold box, or the recall device.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:47 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Nedbrod View Post
Jcurtis934, I'm not thinking that the problem was an overheat issue as a temp sensor went on the upper coil and without it the fans don't run. I think the norcold temp control is bad although I have no idea what the continuity reading should be for the boiler stack sensor. Still no red light on the control but jumped the coil temp sensor and now the fans run but still getting op Ll code.
That snap switch on the upper fin is strictly a control to turn on and off the factory installed fans. It has no other function. If the fans are not working because that switch is bad, it can allow excess heat to develop which could cause the boiler to get too hot.
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Old 01-25-2020, 04:55 PM   #14
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Rohrmann, thats what I figured what happened but not being able to reset the high temp device looks like that needs replacing in addition to adding the ARP unit. I'm going to contact Norcold and find out if the device is covered by warranty. Thanks again.
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Old 01-26-2020, 03:44 AM   #15
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Like Mark said above it takes a strong magnet.
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Old 01-29-2020, 03:05 PM   #16
N132EA
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Reefer problem

Every two or three years mine would act up. I had the manual and called the tech support number.

On the back of the manual I wrote his instructions which by memory included removing a protective cover in upper left corner outside, removing a cannon plug, and shorting said terminal to ground. (I used a clothes hangar). Took fifteen minutes and I did it maybe three times over the 12 years I had that pusher! Call tech support or pay the repairman! Good luck!
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Old 01-30-2020, 01:04 AM   #17
paulinbaja
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That limit switch is not a limit switch. It is the switch to control the fans on the back of the unit.
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:33 AM   #18
Nedbrod
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First N132EA, that looks like the total reset for the control. I figured it couldn't hurt to try it so I went thru the procedure but no luck. It was a good idea. Second paulinbaja, you are correct regarding the fan switch. I checked it out and could not get it to operate at all so I replaced it with a shiny new one. You were correct regarding how it operates. Despite my best efforts the frig is still giving the Ll op code so now its off to the nearest Norcold tech support dealer. The dealer is 45 minutes away and has approximately a two month backlog! Hoping they can sneak my rig in a little sooner.
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:30 PM   #19
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Good luck.
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