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Old 01-22-2020, 09:56 AM   #1
Igoo65
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Halowview RD7 Installation

I have a 2007 Montana 3000RK and I recently purchased a Haloview RD7 that has the extendable cable to get the transmitter closer to the monitor mounted in the TV. The instructions say to run the cable over the roof to the front of the 5th wheel. I really don't want the cable exposed on top of the roof. I would like to mount the camera under the middle back running light on the back cap and run the cable through the cavity behind the refrigerator, go under the 5th wheel next to the frame and into the forward compartment. My question is, To get the cable from the middle of the back cap to the cavity behind the refrigerator, what is in that space? Is it open or is it full of insulation or something else? I am planning on taking 12 volt power from the running lights unless there is another source of 12 volt power that I can tap into, so I don't have to have my lights on full time. Does anyone know of another source of 12 volts? Has anyone done this camera improvement before?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:04 AM   #2
Igoo65
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Did I post this in the wrong spot? I canít believe nobody has any input on this situation.
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:31 AM   #3
jeffba
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You are asking how a 12 year old 3000RK was constructed to add a camera.
I am will to bet you are in uncharted waters.

I would take the back vent off of your refer and you should be able to poke around and see what is back there. I would think it would be pink batted insulation.

You should have a 12 source in you refer compartment
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:41 AM   #4
Mikendebbie
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Camera installation

I have not done that installation but I looked thru the archived brochures to see your floor plan and maybe an interior pic. The pic below is not your unit but is similar (your fridge is on the other side). I think you are on the right track to feed the wires thru behind the fridge and run below along the frame. I wonder if you can pull the fridge out enough to give you some access. Perhaps someone could advise you for how to remove the fridge - maybe it’s a simple process. I doubt the cavity is filled with insulation...but I don’t see a way to feed the wires unless you can move the fridge enough to get you some working room. Also I see some 12 volt lights under the cabinets - maybe they can be your power source. Best of luck! It will be a worthwhile project!
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Old 01-24-2020, 07:33 AM   #5
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Thank you for the information. I will document what I find. And yes, Jeffba, I am in uncharted waters, that’s why I am asking for help and information.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:18 AM   #6
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Due to some inattention and tailswing, I got an inside view of the rear cap of my 2007 as I nearly ripped it off. And there is insulation inside of it. I would think it would be difficult to get wire very far down thru it.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:28 AM   #7
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I have a 2006, which I installed a rear and side cameras on.Mine is mounted on the rear cap just below the center clearance light. Severalattempts to get the wire snake, behind the cap and down the inside of the capto the corner, no luck.
My kitchen is in the rear, there are cabinets above the sink.So, this is how I got the wire to run where I needed it to go.
Mounted the camera on the cap. Drill the hole for the wire.On the inside of the RV, inside the cabinet above the sink, I cut a smallsquare access hole. I was able to get the wire from the camera. Then on the sideof cabinet where I wanted the wire to run down under the cap, I cut anotheraccess hole.
After cutting that hole, I found out there was part of theframe that was blocking me from running the wire the original way.
I attached a string to the wire snake and started it downthe access hole. I had help at this time to let me know when to snake made itthrough.
Tied up the camera cable to the string and pulled it downthrough the cap. From there the cable is tucked up under the trailer to thefront compartment.
My camera is powered through the camera cable. Which isconnected to the two side cameras in the front compartment. From there apigtail to the truck, wired to the duplexed behind the back seat.
Yes, I have holes in my cabinet, but you can not see them. Ijust put the piece I cut out, back up with some duck tape.
My cameras have a 3 foot cable that is connected to themwith a screw on connection. That gets connected to the extension cable the runsto the front compartment. The extra cable from the camera is just rolled up andsits in the cabinet above the sink.
Now running the cable, the way you want to, another thought.How long is the cable coming off your camera?
I left the camera to cable extension connection up in thecabinet. Glad I did as the original camera had a malfunction and had to bereplaced. Easy fix with the connection being in the cabinet. Just had to pullthe old camera off, run the cable in and hook it back up.
Hopefully this helps you.

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Old 01-24-2020, 11:37 AM   #8
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BB_TX sorry for your mishap, but it provided me with what I needed to know. I do appreciate it!
GregN thanks for the directions. This helps out tremendously. My cable is about 40-45 feet long. I should have enough to run like you did.
Thanks for your help.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:31 PM   #9
Carl n Susan
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We have sone a couple of these albeit not on a 2007 3000RK. One of our friends has a 2008 version so I am a little familiar with the setup.

Cutting through the rear cabinets to get access is definitely an option. It might be easier than what we usually do.

All of the ones we did, started with removing the left rear and middle top marker lights along with the left rear taillight assembly. Then using a fish wire, pull a line from the middle light to the left light and then down the left side of the cap to the taillight access. There are a couple of blockages down the left side but they are not solid across and you can get the fish wire around them. Once you are at the taillight you can then easily get into the underbelly.
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Old 01-24-2020, 04:40 PM   #10
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Thanks for the advice. I pulled the inspection covers off of the back panel and was trying to see what was in there around the fridge. I will probably pull the lights out tomorrow and see if I can get the cable through.
Thanks again!
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Old 01-29-2020, 04:39 PM   #11
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I wired my camera to get power from the backup lights. If you only want the camera to come on when you are reversing, this is a relatively easy job to get the power. The signal cable is a different story and I think you already have good advice on that. To fish the power wire down to the backup light, I took out the center marker light and the two masker lights to the left of center. Yes, there is insulation in there but I used a coat hanger with a small loop at the end to fish the wire across the top of the rear cap. I then attached the wire to a heavy bolt and dropped it down inside the corner of the end cap. It took a little jiggling but the bolt eventually went through the insulation and showed up in the hole where I had removed the backup light.
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:28 PM   #12
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I simply ran it across my roof, under the solar panels and strategically used eterna-bond tape to hold it in place. That keeps it from being exposed. Way easier than trying to cut holes and fish in and out.
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Old 01-30-2020, 08:20 AM   #13
Igoo65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRod View Post
I simply ran it across my roof, under the solar panels and strategically used eterna-bond tape to hold it in place. That keeps it from being exposed. Way easier than trying to cut holes and fish in and out.
I had thought about the eterna-bond tape. I may go that route if routing the cable down the back and under the trailer doesn't work out. I don't have anything on my roof to cover the cable. That's why I am leary of having it up there. If I ever have a cable failure, I know, very remote, getting the eterna-bond off is next to impossible. I work for an electric utility and I always expect cable failures.
Thanks for your help.

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