EMS Installation

[Tom S.]

I just installed the hard wire version of the EMS 50 amp voltage protection system. I have done a lot of electrical wiring through the years, so the installation was very straight forward. We have a 06 3500RL, and there was enough room behind the main panel to mount the unit to the floor. There was also more than enough of the 6 gauge power cord tucked into the floor that I didn't have to add any wiring. The unit came with the remote meter display, which I really like. It shows voltage and amperage on each leg of the 220, as well as system status (proper wiring of the external source).

I do not recommend anyone try installing this unit however unless you have experience. My installation involved removing the main breaker panel, disconnecting and removing the 6 gauge power cord, wiring the EMS and reinstalling/hooking back up the power. I also cleaned up the original ground and neutral wiring in the panel. None of this should be attempted by someone without a very good working knowledge of wiring!! The instructions are very good, although they do lack pictures, which would have been nice, and the unit is very well made. The only issue I have with the unit is the remote readout. It is connected to the main unit via a 4 strand telephone type connector. Because it plugs into the bottom of the unit, you will end up with a portion of the hole it feeds through showing below the unit. If they had made it plug into the back of the display, the hole would be hidden completely by the display. As is, if you are careful, very little of the hole will show and it will not be noticeable. Otherwise, an excellent unit! If anyone has questions, I will be happy to answer them.

[NCFischers]

Tom,
I agree with you, if you aren't comfortable with electric, get someone who knows what they are doing to help you. Electricity can be a very dangerous thing. Over the years, I've seen way too many people who thought that they could do anything try to do their own wiring and almost killed themselves or others.

[Countryfolks]

About how long do you estimate it would take to install without going into the panel? Do you need workbench like access to the unit to install the sensors and connect the wires? I think I have room on the outside of the rear wall of an enclosure fitted around the panel. It is accessible from the basement about 18" from the basement wall with a couple of water lines going through the space. The black power cable [about 2 1/2 '-3' of slack] comes up through the floor by the box corner, is folded across the outside rear wall of the panel box and then is routed back to the corner to the side of the box and into the panel. The basic floor plan is similar your rig with the panel by the entry door.

[Tom S.]

Jim, it's not just the 'instant danger' of getting poked, that I worry about. It's the not so obvious mistakes made like compromising grounds, loose connections/too tight connections, and the like. I was a Die Maker by trade, but I also took numerous electricity classes (for 3 years) and worked with two master electricians. I look at it as being the same when working with anything hazardous: if you know what you are doing, especially in the safety department, no problem. If you don't, leave it for someone who does. Unless you're a Buddhist, you only get one go around at life!

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by Countryfolks

About how long do you estimate it would take to install without going into the panel? Do you need workbench like access to the unit to install the sensors and connect the wires? I think I have room on the outside of the rear wall of an enclosure fitted around the panel. It is accessible from the basement about 18" from the basement wall with a couple of water lines going through the space. The black power cable [about 2 1/2 '-3' of slack] comes up through the floor by the box corner, is folded across the outside rear wall of the panel box and then is routed back to the corner to the side of the box and into the panel. The basic floor plan is similar your rig with the panel by the entry door.

As long as you have room to work freely with your hands, there shouldn't be a big issue. The hardest part is working with the #6 cable which is very stiff. I had enough slack in the power cord to be able to wire the unit outside the panel area and then put it inside when done. This unit is NOT water proof or even what I would consider weather proof, so I wouldn't mount it anywhere it might be susceptible to dampness. Copper doesn't rust like steel, but it does corrode, plus there are circuit boards inside. I don't know how much work would be getting to your access point, but the actual wiring and mounting would take around 2 hours including the remote. The remote sensor only has a 13 foot cable, and it's 4 wire, so standard 2 wire phone cable will not work. Therefore you need to mount the unit within relative distance of where you want the remote read out.

[NCFischers]

Tom,
Amen

Jim

[Countryfolks]

Thanks Tom;
Access is easy, remove 4 screws from the false wall in the basement, move the cover out of the way. The monitor will probably go by the other monitors/switches, about 7'. I assume the #6 cable is: bare ground, black and white for the hot legs and green for the neutral. The furnace, water pump and associated plumbing is all there is and it's all on the opposite side. The converter may be there also but I didn't see it.

[Tom S.]

Actually, the #6 is red & black (hot), white (common) and copper (ground).

[NCFischers]

Again, if you aren't sure about electric and the wiring in the trailers, don't play with it!! Using the wrong colors can be VERY dangerous!