About washer dryer installation

[stiles watson]

This is not a post on the merits of owning or not owning a washer and dryer stacked or combo. It is a post about problem solving by using available materials. The fix works and cost nothing because I had the silicon, and the 18" of plastic pipe with the fitting on hand.

Background: I have a stacked Aristan washer and dryer installed in a Big Sky 340 RLQ. In this particular rig the washer outlet is piped into the main discharge line down stream from the gray and black tank valves which means it does not empty into either of my waste water tanks. I have a gate valve at the end of my main discharge line that I installed after market.

Problem: On two occasions, I have forgotten or been distracted from opening that valve. So when using the washer on those occasions, soon the line is full and the washer drain line begins to over flow into the rig. It is a big mess to deal with and dry out.

My dryer belt broke and required me to pull it out and dismantle it to replace the belt. Since I had to take it out anyway, I thought it prudent to address my problem with the overflow issue by also removing the washer and putting a drip pan beneath it. Murphy's law reared it's ugly head and the ready-made 26"X26" pan would not fit because (and I am sure you will be surprised) the closet was not square.

My solution: I am sure each of you may have a better one. The floor is linoleum. I drilled an appropriate sized hole, reamed to size, put a 3/4" plastic pipe with a fitting on the end at the floor, drove it into the hole in the floor with a hefty amount of silicon caulking until it was slightly below flush with the floor and protruded below the belly pan (I cut it to protrude about 2").

Then I removed the molding in the closet and sealed it where the wall meets the floor with silicon. After it set, I put another bead in and reinstalled the molding. The idea is that the closet becomes the drip pan.

Test: Pour some water on the floor and see if it flows out the pipe through the bottom, success. After I reinstalled the washer and dryer, I put another piece of silicon sealed molding across the front of the closet, making sure the door would close, to complete the pan.

I really hope I never forget to open that valve again. If I do, have a place for the overflow to drain that will save a lot of work. No, I don't have pictures. By the time I thought about pictures, the job was done.

Based on my experience, I would encourage anyone installing a washer to insist on an overflow pan under it piped out through the bottom just in case you forget to open whatever valving your rig uses.

[Emmel]

Great idea Stiles. Our 3455Sa has wood flooringunder the w/d, but the linoleum would be easy to add. As a suggestion, what do you think about adding some sort of screen to the tube to keep pests out? I know bugs look for a water source and may try to make a home there.

[stiles watson]

Your point is well taken. I may put a screen over the drain pipe end. However I don't expect there to be any constant source of water either in the pan or in the pipe, hopefully, never any water. It is sort of like NASA's redundant systems. You hope they are never needed.

[Devildog]

Stiles,

On your washer/dryer installation, did you use the non-rigid dryer vent from the unit to the outlet? Or use the flex hose common in houses?

I am looking at installing the Splendide in a couple of weeks, and it suggests the rigid pipe for the dryer exhaust.

[nailbender]

Good job Stiles. If you can't get a pan in the closet, what you did should help a lot. I was able to get a pan in ours and run a 1" drain line for it, should be enough to handle any leak.

[Delaine and Lindy]

I also used a over flow pan under our Splendide Ariston stackable in the Cambridge 358. As for draining the Cambridge drained into the grey tank and when connected to a sewer system we left the drain valve open. I don't think I would like the seperate drain system, could be a problem sometimes. stiles sounds like a good idea you came up with. GBY...

[stiles watson]

Devildog, the dealer used a flexible Hose. It reminds me of aluminum foil over coiled wire. A rigid connection is not doable because you can't get to the connection after the dryer is in place. The dealer had just let the hose sag. So while I had it out, I put a 2"x4" shelf at the right height along the back wall so that the hose lays level with the discharge opening.

[Devildog]

Thanks. I've used the kind of hose you are referring to in our home dryer, and is what I wanted to reuse. The Dryer outlet on the Splendide 2100 XC shows it at the top of the drum, as opposed to what is on my home models.
And the idea for the 2X4 shelf makes sense. One could even go to 2x2, and use large plastic zip ties to keep the pressure off the outlet.
One last question, and I have looked at other installs. How high up the wall did you for your vent? Your location on the 340 RLQ is the same location for washer on our 3295. I had often thought to take the outlet up as high as possible, possibly to vent near the awning. But lately, have thought about venting it mid height in the closet. Our unit did not have the sticker inside the closet to show where the vent should go.

[Delaine and Lindy]

Jim when we had the Ariston Stackable installed the installer (CW) said the dryer vent hose had to be level or downward path. Couldn't sag because it would became stopped up. Don't know for sure but I think he refered me to the Splendide manual. GBY......

[stiles watson]

The outside vent was approximately level with the vent port on the back of the dryer. When the 2x4 shelf was added, it took the swag out of the line, so it is all good for an unobstructed flow and no kinks in the pipe. When we reinstalled the dryer, we had to reach over the top to lift the swag up on top of the shelf.

If the hole in the side of the RV had been bigger, we could have pulled the excess dryer vent hose through the side, attached it to the outside vent and the slipped the vent back into the RV and sealed it. The hole was very close tolerance and I just didn't want to make it larger.

How ever you install it, think about what you will need to do if it needs service. Example: if you need to replace the belt, you have to remove the top and one side to get at it. The belt is so tight, it is a bear to get the new one on. You have to pre-stretch the belt. Westland does send instructions with the new belt.

Another recommendation for a new installation is to put the electrical plugs up the wall, above the top of the stacked unit so that you can get to them. The little bit of extra wire is worth it if you have to unplug the units.