Need Hitch Info!

[Montana_2854]

I have recently purchsed a 2005, model 3295RK, Montana 5th wheel. I drive a 2001, Chevy 2500HD,crewcab, Duramax, short-bed. The dealer installed a Reese 15k hitch. I'm concerned about the clearance between the front of the rv and the rear window when backing or turning tightly.

The dealer says that Montana shortened the pin distance recently, but maintains that there is ample clearance for manuverability. He also says that my fears are unfounded and that I'm the only one who has complained in this regard. Before starting conversations with the manufacturer I would like to be educated on what is really going on with actual owners and what are my options.

The dealer says that, while not necessary, the best low cost solution would be to extend the pin by 8-10 inches. Is this safe and would my warranty be voided?

My research also reveals that a slider (manual)is recommended by Reese for shortbeds. My dealer seems to be biased against sliders and says they are user unfriendly, costly, and could be unsafe. Your thoughts on this?

I have also found that possible solutions could be an electrically controlled slider or a cam actuated hitch by Husky ( called a Pull-Rite). These can be quite pricey, but I'm O.K. with this if it represents the best and safest solution to my "real" or "imagined" problem.

A final quickie. Is a 15k hitch sufficient with the CVWR being 14,300lbs?

Any and all input will be greatly apprecdiated. We're new to rving and obviously want to do it right and safe before we embark on some long trips.

jacksuz

[Charlie]

First of all wecome to the forum. There are quite a number of people here that have the slider hitchs, manual and automatic, and someone will be along shortly to give you an opinion. My past two trucks have been long beds so I have not had a concern for the slider hitch. Presently I am using a 16K DrawTite. On my first 5th wheel I did have a short box and the hitch was located above the truck axle, but the trailer did have an extended kingpin. What I remember at the time of installation of the hitch I was told that there needed to be 54" clearance between the trailer and the truck cab in order to be safe. I have seen one short box truck with a wrinkle in the corner of the cab from turning too short, so it can happen.

I would like to add that there have been dicussions about hitchs. If you go to GENERAL DISCUSSIONS/TOW VEHICLES & TOWING/AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL SLIDER you can read some of the MOC members thoughts about the slider hitchs.

[sreigle]

I've been towing fivers with a shortbed since 1996. I would not do so without a slider, either automatic or manual. If price is not a concern, the Pullrite SuperGlide is the top of the line as far as I am concerned because the sliding is automatic. You just drive and don't worry about it.

If price is a consideration, as it is with many of us, a manual slider is just fine. You just have to be aware when you are in a situation where it is needed and get out and manually slide the hitch. It is not particularly user friendly but it's not difficult if installed properly and kept lubricated. That said, in nine years I've had to use the slider just four times. The rounded front cap of the Montana does give you more turn radius before contact than most fivers would. But contact is still possible. Usually when I have had to use the slider I could have gone to another site, or whatever,instead of using the slider. Once I was in a situation where not having the slider would have been a serious problem for me.

I very highly recommend a slider in your situation. Now your other questions. We have the 2003 version of your Montana and we tow it with a shortbed truck. We have been fulltiming with this rig for two years (as of the 21st of this month). We have the same hitch you do, the Reese 15k Classic. We have the Reese Kwik-Slide slider under it. This slider is available from nearly any dealer who sells Reese hitches. It can easily be retrofitted to your hitch. Make sure to test it after installation and let them know you will test it before you write the check. Getting the base rails nearly perfectly parallel is the key to good operation. If they did it right you should be able to climb up in your truck, throw the handle, lean back against the cab and push the hitch it's full travel with your feet. If not, have them do it again. Occasionally mine needs lubing if it gets a bit sticky about moving. Thanks to a friend I discovered the dri-lube spray made for fifthwheel slide lubrication is an excellent lubrication for those rails.

The above are my opinions. I hope you get enough replies to make your own decision.

Just re-read my own post and wanted to make one clarification. Climbing into the bed of the truck is just how I test the operation. It is not the normal procedure with fifthwheel attached. To do that, I move the handle as described in the manual. I then get in the truck, put it in drive, hold the handle on the brake controller to hold the trailer brakes, then let the truck ease forward to slide the slider. If properly lubed this will be smooth. If not, then you may have to goose the throttle a bit and that will slam the slider back and you will have a headache from the impact. Been there. Then I get out and throw the handle the rest of the way if it didn't do so on its own. I do not block the trailer wheels as stated in the manual. If the slider isn't set up properly you might have to do that to get it to slide. The automatic slider is the preferred option if money doesn't matter. But the manual is perfectly serviceable in my opinion. Someday I'd like to have the superglide but I haven't used the slider enough to justify swapping out what I have.