Electric Fireplace is Stuck

[lkennerly]

We are trying to access behind our electric fireplace by removing the four screws. There are few edges to grip and we have pulled everyway we can think of and the most we achieved is one side moving about 3/8". It feels like we are going to break something. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[Montana Man]

We have the same trailer. I pulled the four screws then pulled the unit out. It did stick a bit on the fake brick which surrounds it but it pulled out.

[Mikendebbie]

I posted the same problem last December (2019). My fireplace has 6 face screws to remove (after removing the glass door). I pulled as hard as I could given the few spots to get a weak grip. Nothing moved. Not even a slight wiggle. I did not try a crow bar or nail puller because I did not want to damage any of the wood surround. I have not tried to remove the fireplace since - but maybe tomorrow I will give it a shot. The weather here has been hot and dry for a week or so, low humidity - maybe the wood surround has relaxed its grip a bit. I will update you tomorrow.

I looked at weather underground.com and the humidity for most of December was 80% to 90% with avg. temps 50* to 60* for a couple of weeks prior to my attempt...so I might be on to something here.

[Mikendebbie]

I have an update! I got the fireplace box out and ran the coax for my dish tailgator to the back of my dish black box. It turns out that there were screw heads on each end that strike the head of the opening and make it very difficult to get out. I ended up putting both hands in the slot where the controls are on the right - and pulling down real hard and out slightly. One end moved slightly and I went to the opposite side and did the same. It came out by 1/8"...then a bit more and as I got the hang of it - pulling down and pulling out - it came out by an inch here and an inch there. Once I got it past the two screws in the pics - it came out easy...but the process was NOT an easy pull. I could not get the coax thru the existing hole and into the wire loom below - so I drilled a new 1/2" hole - ran the coax and silicone caulked the dog out of it. It was getting dark - so I will finish up tomorrow.

I took my drill and tried to widen the spot where the screw head got hung and scraped the header - so hopefully it will go in and come out much easier. I intend to figure out some sort of plastic cap to cover the exposed coax end under the slideout to keep it clean.

[dieselguy]

As for the coax ... just buy a tru the wall coax connector. It makes a clean self sealing install better than coax dangling under the slide floor. This is just one example of many designs and colors.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...waAvWzEALw_wcB

[Montana Man]

Good job on your explanation of what you have done. I can just see the assembler banging away on the fireplace to get it in there. I wonder if they install these during factory tours.

[Mikendebbie]

...Just to wrap this thread up with my final result...
Here is a pic of my new coax pigtail sticking down near the wire loom (blue tip coax on the left in the pic below). I cut off an end of an old piece of coax to use as a weather cap for the new coax, zip tied and taped to the wire loom.

As dieselguy suggested you could go right thru the sidewall with a coax connection and not bother removing the fireplace and going thru the floor like I did...however - DW did not want me drilling thru the exterior skin for this job. That discussion was settled long ago and it just took me a while to get to this one.

Additionally - I thought I would add a pic of "step 1" in my the fireplace removal process - remove the two small keeper screws inside the slots (right and left side). These screws keep my glass face in place and not bouncing off. Once these screws are out - lift the glass panel up by an inch or so then out.