Hot Water Heater Anode Removal - Final Update

[ols1932]

In all my years of RVing I've never experienced a problem removing the anode rod for replacement. I need some "expert" help. I've sprayed it with WD-40 hoping that might loosen it up a bit. Do you suppose there is another trick? Penetrating oil? Looking for all "safe" ideas. Recovering from back surgery causes me to not be able to "push" or "pull" too drastically. I couldn't budge the anode in this water heater. The water heater is just a little over a year old, having replaced the original heater. All help accepted.

Orv

Couldn't remove the anode. Had RV technician come out to our site and he couldn't remove it either. The head of the anode is so shallow that the socket wrench cannot get a good hold of the anode so it slips off when trying to turn it. Don't want to burr up the head too much so it will probably never come out unless I can learn something new about how to get it out.

Orv
Finally got the old anode out, just in time--it was almost gone! It had been in operation 21 months and I like to change it at least once a year. Had to grind a 6-point socket down to where it was flush, no bevel on the edges. The anode shoulders were so narrow and close to the wall of the water heater that the normal socket just didn't get a good enough bite. It then took a strong man with a 2-foot breaker bar in order to get it out. But it's done. Thanks for all the inputs.

Orv

[bncinwv]

It may be a little on the radical side, but I use a 1/2" breaker bar on ours, and I guess if I really needed to, I could add a pipe to it as a cheater bar. Physics tells us the longer the cheater bar results in more torque with less energy used.
Bingo

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by bncinwv

It may be a little on the radical side, but I use a 1/2" breaker bar on ours, and I guess if I really needed to, I could add a pipe to it as a cheater bar. Physics tells us the longer the cheater bar results in more torque with less energy used.
Bingo

I thought of that Bingo, but I don't have one and I was also afraid of breaking something. Is there danger in breaking if I use too much leverage?
Orv

[bncinwv]

Can't really answer that one, I would think the threads on the rod itself would give before the casing of the heater would. If it is rusted or frozen in place that hard, no matter how you would have to get it out I would think it would break something. My gut feeling is if you get enough leverage on it, the threads will break loose pretty easy since all of the force would be applied to unscrewing the rod. Keep us informed, I am sure others will be interested in the resolution.
Bingo

[Mrs. CountryGuy]

Ok, I thought so, Al says, YES to the breaker bar, the longer the better.

The first time he took out ours, he had a tough tough time. When he put back he used teflon tape. With teflon tape he has had no trouble, and did not have to use the bar again.

When I mentioned your back, he said, FOR SURE!

Good luck

[steves]

Ditto on the breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet. I always remove my anode rod when the rig is home and it is always tight (hard to break). Don't forget to relieve all the water pressure before opening!

[William O. Phillips]

Having the tank full of hot water might help. Mechanics will heat tight situations to help them break it.....I use a breaker bar all the time. Just be careful of hot water. Careful with the WD-40 or other spays you might use as it should not enter the tank.

Good luck!

Bill

[HughM]

Same here--1/2" breaker bar that stays in the RV. If you can't pull hard on the bar then have someone hold the bar and tap on the end of the bar with a hammer. Perferably not a sledge hammer.
The shock of the hammer blow should loosen the anode.
Worked for me.
Hugh

[tcorbitt]

Hammerdrill may do the trick. I have a cordless dewalt drill with a hammer drill setting. Works great to unfreeze the frozen bolt if you have a large socket (3/4 or 7/8 if I recall corectly) attachment.

I really like the idea of using teflon tape, that I will try in the future.

[scattershot]

The socket required on mine is 1 1/16". I'd use light taps with a hammer on the end of the wrench handle to break it loose, then remove as usual. When you reinstall the new one, use teflon tape.

Good advice above on relieving the pressure in the tank before attempting to remove the plug.

[bsmeaton]

I've gone as far as penetrating oil on a hot tank followed up with an impact gun a few minutes later. It came right out and nothing broke, but now I keep a roll of teflon tape in there and run a strip each time I reinstall it.

[TLightning]

Harbor Freight has a 1/2" drive 24" breaker bar guaranteed for life...$10.

[berridge]

I picked up a 24 in breaker bar at Harbor Freight for $10. Great for wheel lugs and annode. A 7/8 in deep socket is best for wheel lugs. If you have Marathon tires you will likely need the wheel lug assembly. Teflon tape really helps to avoid binding of the annode.

[Imp]

With the teflon tape, even I can get that anode rod out of there. We use a socket wrench with extension to take it out.

[noneck]

Hi ols1932, Sounds like your using a 12 pt socket? This requires a 6 pt socket that has a facet that lines up with each flat, one-for-one and should prevent rounding.
If its truely this tight you may have a case where it was way over tightened galling the threads...if this is the case when it does come out you might find the threads unusable.

[hookman]

Use a 6 pt socket as noneck says and some heat. Also a steady pressure on a long breaker bar.

[OntMont]

The right size six point socket, a short extension and 24" breaker bar do it for me. I use the same tools for the undoing the wheel lug nuts if I have to. The short extension gets the bar clear of the trailer side, and also seems to make it easier to get the new anode rod threads started. Use Teflon tape for the threads.

[grooving grandpa]

I also use a 1 1/16 socket. I agree with tapping on the wrench with a hammer. I always use teflon tape and have had no problems. I also carry a breaker bar, it is just a piece of PVC pipe. Make sure you get a spray wand from CW( it screws onto the end of your water hose) to clean out the calcium in the bottom of the tank.

[ole dude]

I vote for a impact gun to take out. Teflon tape or teflon thread sealent and a handtightened annode back in. A break over bar will git'er done also, for sure.

[ols1932]

Thanks for all the replies. I think we're all on the same wavelength with maybe some slight variations. This is the main reason I like this forum because no matter how experienced a person may feel they are, there are always good inputs from the experiences of others.

I did use a 6-point socket with a breaker bar but just flat cannot make it budge. I haven't tried an impact wrench yet. It's interesting that this is the original anode with the new water heater in August 2006 and I can see the teflon tape on the threads. I'm wondering if they might have used a little Loc-tite or other sealing substance when they installed the anode. I always use teflon tape and tighten the rod until there is no water leakage. Have always been changing anodes on an annual basis, but this time the "annual" got away from me because of my two major surgeries. Right now I'm not able to apply a lot of pressure on the wrench because of my back surgery. Hoping I'll get strong enough before the anode wears out. Hate to have to wait until water heater has to be replaced!

Orv