Torque Setting?

[captbanjo]

For Goodyear Marathon 80 PSI tires on my 3750FL, does anyone know the proper torque setting?

[bncinwv]

I assume you have the alloy wheels, they are typically at 110-120 ft lbs. Steel wheels are typically at 120 ft.lbs. There should have been a small cd or some sort of documentation from Tredit to confirm this.
Bingo

[captbanjo]

Thanks. So, assuming I figure out the proper torque setting, if I wanted to get the proper torque readings for my tires that are already installed, should I loosen them and then try retightening them or just simply try tightening them and see if the pop sound comes from the torque wrench?

[bncinwv]

If you suspect that an air wrench was used, I see no problem with loosening them one at a time and retorquing them in the normal pattern.
Bingo

[scott-pati]

X2 on what Bingo said. I would re-torque them anyway using your own torque wrench.
Scott

[captbanjo]

Is there a particular type of torque wrench that is preferable or is it one size fits all? I assume I'll have to know the size of the lug nut?

[Phil P]

quote:Originally posted by captbanjo

Thanks. So, assuming I figure out the proper torque setting, if I wanted to get the proper torque readings for my tires that are already installed, should I loosen them and then try retightening them or just simply try tightening them and see if the pop sound comes from the torque wrench?

Hi

The torque has nothing to do with the tires instead it is the sizes of the lug stud that determines the torque.

I have the documents from keystone and Dexter And the recommend 110 to 120 Ft. Lbs. For the ½ -20 lug studs.

Some of the newer trailer have axles with a higher weight rating and a larger stud this requires a different torque.

However I have been having problems with striping the lug nut then after a couple of these the stud gives up. I have my torque wrenches calibrated every year.

So I have gone to the industry standard of 105 Ft. Lbs.

Here are pictures of my last 2 stud changes.



Removing the stud it is done with a 3 lb hammer.



Install the new stud as far as you can with your hand.



Drive the stud all the way in with a 3 lb hammer and drift. Please use safety glasses when using a hammer like this. The pliers are my way of protecting against misses. LOL

Phil P

[bncinwv]

Most of the lug nuts are 7/8". I have an el-cheapo Harbor Freight 1/2" drive clicker torque wrench that set me back $9.99 with a coupon. Others have proclaimed the superiority of the +$100 wrenches. I am comfortable with my choice, but as with anything, it is a personal choice.
Bingo

[Phil P]

Bingo

7/8 is the wrench sizes. The stud and nut size is ½ inch diameter and 20 threads per inch.

Lug nuts are available in wrench sizes of 7/8, 13/16 and ¾ for the ½-20 stud the 7/8 is 2.5 inches long but has only 2 inch long thread length the 13/16 is 2 inches long has full length threads and for the studs Dexter puts in the 7,000 hub is acceptable and easier to get you socket on in the heavy wheels the ¾ nut is only about ¾ inch length and has only about 1/2 inch of threads contacting the stud and are commonly grade 5 and not suitable for this application.

The 7/8 and 13/16 wrench size is preferred because of their length they have more threads contacting the stud than the ¾ wrench size nut

The SAE torque for a grade 8 bolt or stud ½ inch in diameter with 20 threads per inch is 105 LBS with lubricated threads regardless of the wrench size.

I still recommend going by Keystone / Dexter documentation and using the 110 to 120 ft lbs of torque if you are not having any problems with the nuts striping the threads.

The reason I have had some problems is because the factory had cross threaded 2 of the wheel nuts and at my first tire change the selling dealer used a thread chaser to clean the threads up and used to old nuts.

Phil P

[Rondo]

Wayne, you have some good advice coming from the members here on the torqueing of the wheels but I do have one question for you-- Are you really going to run the Marathon tires on your new rig? Do a search about the Marathons here on Forum and I think you will reconsider going to far with them. They are better known as Marabombs here and many a MOC member have had real problems with them blowing out or disintegrating while going down the road. This of coarse is my own humble opinion but please do a search and check out the posts on these tires for your own safety and peace of mind!

[captbanjo]

Yes, I've read on the Marathons and when I spoke with a tire dealer here with no vested interest, he indicated they had fixed the issues.

Whether or not they have, I'll soon find out as I intend to drive from RI to Florida. Gulp...

I did install a Tire Minder so I hope that helps.

[bncinwv]

I hate to say it, but I agree with Rondo with regards to the Marathons, simply because your rig is one of the "heavier" rigs when loaded. When we purchased our previous 3750, we made it clear to the dealer that it was not leaving the lot unless the tires were upgraded. We worked out a mutual agreement as to the upgrade price and I never had a problem. We went with the "expensive" G614's. If you insist on using the Marathons, heed the maximum speed (65 mph) and inflation values (80 psi) diligently, and good luck!
Bingo

[captbanjo]

Well, one good thing; we made a few trips to New Hampshire and back so we know that the tires are super deficient.

But longer driving times and warmer weather in Florida? We'll see...

[Art-n-Marge]

I guess I'm with the majority. My '06 Monty has aluminum wheels which have the 110 to 120ft lb spec. I use 115 lbs (in the middle). I don't usually retighten since I'm usually the one that has last retorqued, otherwise I'd loosen, then retorque. Just make sure you recheck the torque at 100, then 250 miles. I understand this is to ensure the torque is holding so don't loosen first during these rechecks. Eventually, the torque will hold (an immediate click when checking the torque).

I briefly delivered trailers for a living and right out of the factory, the torque wasn't "set" (immediate click). Then there were some trailers that never seemed to set by the time I dropped them at their destination. I think it depended on the distance towed. I average about 400 miles per trip so I typically had at least two chances at rechecking. For this reason, I highly recommend rechecking especially after the lug nuts have been removed recently.

[Phil P]

quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

Eventually, the torque will hold (an immediate click when checking the torque).

Hi

;

What clicks my elbow? LOL

Phil P

[maximo]

Aren,t the settings on a torque wrench different if you use a extension?

Frank

[rohrmann]

No, doesn't matter if no extension, or a 6 inch or 12 inch, the torque will be the same. The only time the torque will be different will be if the extension is a crow foot or an even longer extension that effectively changes the length of your torque wrench. Usually, the 6 inch extension will provide you enough clearance to safely torque your lug nuts without tearing up your knuckles. If you decide to loosen the nuts before checking torque, just remember like was previously mentioned, follow the directions on how to follow up with additional torque checks,and this is done every time you take a wheel off and several times at the recommended mileage afterward. It is also recommended to check torque prior to each trip. You will get a feel for how often as time goes on. Just use the wrench, this is a safety issue I actually had a fellow at a park question me as to why I was checking torque, like it mattered to anyone else. I think he thought I was crazy, but I just told him the manufacturer said to do it. I don't think he believed me.

[Bigsky3625RE]

Good advice to check the torque pre trip. I still do. And when we travel between spots or on the way home.

I have the Hi-Spec rims which sah you only need to set it once. But for peace of mind I still do.

As a side note, I have never seen anyone else do this.

[steelpony5555]

quote:What clicks my elbow? LOL

Phil P

You'll laugh but that is the torque wrench I used when I rebuilt a Dodge 340 HP motor for my sons 73 Charger...That motor was a screamer. Was still running strong when we sold it......Just goes to show sometimes we over think these things lol lol....oh now I use a Harbor Freight one...but I got ripped off Bingo, I paid $12 for mine lol lol