Independent Suspension vs Lippert auto levelers

[Champ_49]

Ok gang here's the question. If you had a choice between the two which one would you go with? And yes I agree, both would be ideal but this is going to have to be done in stages. Like one year then the next if you know what I mean. There's only so much extra money to go around! I am going to Elkhart to get some work done on the unit which will take approx. a week.

I will also add the fact that I am getting the infamous frame flex repaired on my unit. Which leads me to getting the IS.

Considering doing one or the other the following week or next fall after our summer stay in MI.

Dave

[Gkerlin]

I think my suggestion would be depending on how much you travel. If you put on a lot of miles I'd go the IS Hands down.

I put the MorRyde IS and disc brakes on in December and then spent the winter out to Q and back. So far I've put about 10k miles on the new setup. The difference is incredible. Not only in how the rig stops, but how it handles. The suspensions put on most 5'vers like everything else they use, is marginal at best. Upgrading to the IS IMO gives you greater safety margin, less wear and tear on the coach and its contents and perhaps more longevity to the unit.

Ride behind a unit with leaf springs on a bumpy road and watch that back end bounce around like a kiddie ride at McDonalds. Then ride behind a unit with MorRyde IS and notice the difference. Its night and day. The IS rides smooth with the suspension keeping the rig smooth and level.

Sharp turns, jacking the trailer around 90 degrees... you name it. The suspension does not twist, groan, clank or whatever.

If you don't put a lot of miles on or don't plan on keeping the unit for a long time perhaps the level up might move up on my list. To me that is a convenience item where as the IS and disc brakes is a safety item.

[mhs4771]

I'm with Greg, although we did do the Level-Up first on our Monty. The level-up is great for moving often, but the IS can't be beat if you travel alot. Our SOB came from the factory with the Level-up system so we have an appointment next month with Mor/ryde to have the IS installed. When we had the IS installed on the Monty, we also had the disc brakes put on and as Greg says, stopping was amazing and the ride of the Monty was so much smoother. We all forget to put something away at times and find it on the floor when we arrive, after the IS if something was left on the counter or table, was generally in the same spot when we arrived. So I guess if you plans include lots of short trips with much moving from place to place the level-up would be great, but if the trips will be longer and the stays longer, the IS might be the first choice.

[H. John Kohl]

Greg beat me to the post. This is one time I will X2 to what Greg said. I also made the choice of IS over level up with the knowledge I was going to put a lot of miles on my trailer this year full time.
I have always wanted the Hydraulic Disc and was afraid the extra torque would bust the current suspension so I went with both disc brakes and IS. The ride is some much better.

[DQDick]

As usual I'm fully with John on this one. You can't beat Level-up for convenience, but IS and disk brakes make such a huge difference in ride and safety it's no contest. That being said, we did both around the time of the fall Rally and saved a bunch of money with the Rally specials. If you can do that this fall, that's when I would do whichever one you chose.

[Champ_49]

Ok gang heres the quote I got from MoreRyde.



As discussed the cost of the IS suspension will be no more than $ 2,800 installed (parts and labor).

The Disc Brakes are $ 2,629.


This sound about right? Next question how much trouble is it doing your own Disc Brake and would it be enough of a savings?

Dave

I have done the looking into cost of Disc brake setup as far as cost thru etrailer. If what I read is correct I come up with a cost of approx. $1570.00 which is a cost savings of over $1000.00. Very significant but it appears with the cost difference it looks like it could be pretty good amount of work.

[mhs4771]

Dave that price from Mor/ryde looks about right. Growing up on a Farm, i've gotten my hands dirty working on tractors, trucks, cars, you name it with a motor. I've seen what goes into the disc brake install and not sure I would want to tackle it. Also, did the E-Trailer price include the hydraulic pump and in most cases the interface between the TV and brake pump, or in the case of an older TV and brake controller that will work with the Disc? There might be some hidden cost there.

[Champ_49]

quote:Originally posted by mhs4771

Dave that price from Mor/ryde looks about right. Growing up on a Farm, i've gotten my hands dirty working on tractors, trucks, cars, you name it with a motor. I've seen what goes into the disc brake install and not sure I would want to tackle it. Also, did the E-Trailer price include the hydraulic pump and in most cases the interface between the TV and brake pump, or in the case of an older TV and brake controller that will work with the Disc? There might be some hidden cost there.

That does include the rotors, brakes and brackets, brake lines, the hydraulic pump. Does not include the brake controller because I already have the tekonsha P2 which is recommended.

I am also handy with tools as I built race cars from the ground up including building the complete frame. Had to fabricate a lot of brakes to stay within the rules so I do have the knowledge. But...and heres the kicker I had a full blown shop, with machinery, all the neccesary tools and a very nice building. None of which I have to this day, because I am now a fulltimer. So I have already got the idea of doing myself be a past thought. So now it's how do I go about this in a reasonable and affordable way.

Thanks

[pineranch]

Hey Dave,
The easy and affordable way is to buy a new rig with all that stuff on it. Debt is a wonderful thing.
Mike

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by pineranch

Hey Dave,
The easy and affordable way is to buy a new rig with all that stuff on it. Debt is a wonderful thing.
Mike

Except you can't - at least not a Montana. Disc brakes and IS are not offered - period.

As for the do-it-yourself aspect, at least for the brakes, I don't see why not. Replacing the old with the new, only involves 4 bolts per wheel. The more difficult part comes in running hydraulic lines, mounting the electric over hydraulic unit and then connecting that to your brake controller and making the final adjustments. Making hydraulic brake lines isn't rocket science, but it is time consuming and requires a bender (yes, before anyone pipes up, you can make some bends with your hands, but doing sharp bends requires a bender).

The IS however is another story. It needs to be welded to the frame, therefore, I would hesitate to recommend anyone, even those with welding experience (myself included) to attempt this themselves.

[Art-n-Marge]

Doesn't converting to hydraulic disc brakes require a check of whatever you use for a brake controller, whether it's integrated or not? I've heard and read conflicting stories that my '06 Ford IBC may not work with hydraulic disc brakes versus electric brakes.

After reading all this, I just want to make sure someone covers what to look for if the brakes are modified. I think the IS system or leveling system does not affect any of this but the disc brakes might affect the brake controller, too (are there electric disc brakes to solve this)?

Thanks in advance. I am very curious about this.

[mhs4771]

Art, they sell a small adapter box that goes inline between your TV's built in controller and the hydraulic pump. This adapter box fakes out the TV brake controller into thinking it's still controlling electric brakes. Had the system on our Monty and same setup on our SOB. Works fine and both TV and RV are happy.

[Champ_49]

Art from what I see on the brake controller it is recommended by etrailer to use the Tekonsha P2 controller which I already have. But I don't know what the newer trucks systems need.

Tom I am a good welder, as I have tested my welds at over 140 mph and hit concrete walls and never had a weld, or the material next to the weld fail. I am confident on my welding. With all that being said I just don't have the proper tools or conditions to do this myself or the expertise in the brake system for that matter due to the fact that I am a fulltimer and no longer own that shop and tools. So I am going to pay the professionals to do it instead and I will sit back and have a good margeritta and wait for the call. As I will need that drink when they push that bill towards me.

Mike, now you went and did it. Why I didn't think of that I have no idea. Just buy new, damn thats just to easy......lol But to get it, I am going to have to buy a New Horizons or something like that to get all that I want. I don't need to tell you that I am in no position whatsoever to purchase something of that magnitude. So I will just keep what I have and improve on that one step at a time. But thanks for the idea!!

Thanks everyone for the help in spending my cash, very much appreciated!!

Have a good evening all!

Dave

[RickW]

I did both at the same time but if I could have only done one and then the other at a later time, I would do the I/S and disk brakes first. 1. Safety the disk brakes make a big difference. 2. The I/S will improve the ride of the trailer. That should increase the life of the trailer and the stuff inside.

Level-up is convenient and we love ours but I would definitely do the I/S & brakes first.

[kab449]

Dave:
Which rotors are you going to install and why? They have a couple of different ones including stainless steel, e coated, and regular. Getting ready to order.

[Gkerlin]

I went with the Dexter 8k discs and conventional grease bearings. I wasn't given a choice of Rotors. Just the manufacturer. They seemed to be gently pushing the Kodiak brakes but from my research it seemed to be the consensus that the Dexters were a better brake. The only real complaint about the Dexters was that the pads cost more when it comes time to replace them. I'd suggest that you do some research yourself on the brakes if you haven't already to help you make your choice.

Also- as far as the install workmanship... MorRyde was top notch. They know their stuff and did excellent quality work.

[Champ_49]

Keith I was looking at the Kodiak in what they call the raw metal as far as pricing is all. Now I will go with whatever MoreRyde puts on them.

Dave

[mhs4771]

My understanding is for the Dexter Disc you can only use Dexter Pads, The Kodiak disc can use pads from an older Olds or Buick, CRS so I don't know exactly. Our SOB came with the Kodiaks and they do a great job stopping close to 17K worth of 5er.

[exav8tr]

My IBC in my 08 chevy dually would not operate the new system. I ended up putting in a Prodigy. Worked fine. Something about millivolts being different in the two. No big deal.

[kab449]

quote:Originally posted by Champ_49

Keith I was looking at the Kodiak in what they call the raw metal as far as pricing is all. Now I will go with whatever MoreRyde puts on them.

Dave

Thanks I guess I'll have to call them. The other finishes are Dacromet and Silver Cadmium. Too many choices.