Lug nut torque

[Art-n-Marge]

Both Tom S. and skypilot are right! The Ford manual for my '06 Superduty, specificies one drop of oil on the top part of the nut that also has a captive washer looking thing between the flange and where the nut wrench would go as you are installing or removing the nut. I guess the drop of oil is supposed to provide some lubrication between the two parts of the nut (I don't know why nor do I worry about it), on the other hand there should be NO oil on the nut's flange face where it contacts the wheel.

I do this and it is a pain to apply correctly. I dip my finger in the oil and let one drop drip onto the inside of the washer, then install the nut, keeping the nut flange face clean. I rotate my wheels/tires every 5,000 miles myself and with 32 lugs to take off, and put back on, this can take a long time. About every other time I try and find an opportunity for my local tire store to do this since they will do this free but they don't bother with the oil and I don't request it of them. Shame on me for not using the oil all the time but I haven't had any seize or removal problems (yet).

[Illini Trekker]

I work around the refinery industry with professorial contractors to tighten large studs, they use hydraulic tool to stretch studs and then just hand tighten nuts. They also torque studs using hydraulic and have different torque values for dry studs verses anti-seize studs. I have never used any lube on a stud bolt and as often as I rotate tires nuts are easy to remove.

[Sniperduce]

My 2004 F350 4x4 requires 165 ft-lbs, our 2006 Honda Accord only takes 80 so 120 on the RV seems about right.