Any suggestions?

[NCFischers]

I started my wet bolt upgrade this afternoon and I'm having a devil of a time getting the old bolt out of the front spring hanger. The darn thing won't budge. Any suggestions?

[Art-n-Marge]

How about a grinder with a cutting blade (or similar tool) to cut the head off? Then pound the bolt outta there with a hammer and a smaller bolt but not too hard so you break anything. Lots of WD-40, too. Do you have another jack to put under the affected area to try to relieve some of the tension (if there is any).

Don't forget the protective gear. The sparks will fly!

[awaywego]

I used a little smaller bolt and a hammer and drove it out. Make sure you have the tension off of it so it won't drop when you drive it out.

[bncinwv]

Drink a cup of coffee??? Might not help getting the bolt out, but will ease the tension (pun intended) of the situation remembering Cathypot!! Hee Hee!!!
Bingo

[bob n pam]

Oh, you want a suggestion about wet bolt installation. I thought you wanted a suggestion about any old thing and I was going to say, "Kiss Vickie, sit down and have a glass of wine!"

[Jolu]

NCFischers,
I used a 2 pound hammer with several swings at the bolts. You will probably have to put some beef behind the swings. You might spray some lube on the bolt and spring eye the best you can. (K&W Knocker Loose) works well. It is thin and penetrates. I thought I was going to bend the hangers. But they didn't bend or break loose.
Those knurls on the bolt have rusted and is hanging up in the hanger bracket. Once loose you can use another bolt to pop it out the rest of the way.

[Rondo]

Jim-- When they replaced mine at the Fall Rally the tech used a sledge and another bolt. I watched in horror but after he sprayed it and tapped it a couple of times to break the rust loose, he just tapped it out with the smaller bolt. As said prior in this thread-- JUST MAKE SURE ALL THE TENSION IS OFF THE SPRING FIRST!! Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

[Tom S.]

Put a slightly larger socket over the head of the bolt, and use a large "C" clamp to push the bolt out. It's not quite as much fun as beating on it with a big hammer but is much more controllable.

[H. John Kohl]

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

Put a slightly larger socket over the head of the bolt, and use a large "C" clamp to push the bolt out. It's not quite as much fun as beating on it with a big hammer but is much more controllable.

I like Tom S. way. I was going to say if you use a sledge make sure you put a bigger sledge behind the spring hanger bracket so you do not damage it. The C clamp is the best I believe.

Thanks Tom S. We did the hammer bit.

[Rondo]

I think Tom has the idea! You have more control with the C clamp anyway! Let us know how things turn out!

[Jolu]

In my case you would be kidding yourself if you thought you could press the bolts out of the spring eye brackets with a C clamp. I used a 8" C clamp and tried that.
A demolition hammer with a socket on the end of a shaft like what can be used to drive ground rods in the ground would work great.

[SlickWillie]

I don't like big hammers; always end up with banged up knuckles. Reminds me of those sluggin' wrenches I used to use on steam turbines. I like Tom's method, even if you have to warm up the shackle with a torch.

[Pete Hanson]

I would think a good size wheel puller might work which is very much like using a C-Clamp only you can get more torque on a wheel puller. It is a very controlled way to push it out. I agree with the others who suggest checking that all the tension is off the spring. I had good luck with a small pneumatic hammer.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by Jolu

In my case you would be kidding yourself if you thought you could press the bolts out of the spring eye brackets with a C clamp. I used a 8" C clamp and tried that.
A demolition hammer with a socket on the end of a shaft like what can be used to drive ground rods in the ground would work great.

Maybe it had something to do with the age of your trailer or some other variable. Ours still had most of the nylon bushing too, which meant the bolts weren't rusted to the steel bushings/eyelets. I used a "C" clamp with a short pipe for extra leverage on the two of ours that were stubborn. I've also done this with truck spring shackle bolts. A little penetrating oil may help a lot too.

[NCFischers]

Got-R-Done!! Had a few minor problems but a little enginuity and a barn full of tools and it's done. A 6 inch C clamp worked great for breaking the old bolts loose. I had to cut one old bolt off as even the air wrench and penetrox wouldn't break it. The trailer has less than 5000 miles on it and some of the bushings were pretty worn. I also can see the beginnings of wear on some of the metal parts. I feel better now that it's done.
Bingo, I had plenty of coffee before I started so I was wired enough to keep at it. My brother helped me and I wore his a*s out. He never did anything like this before and learned quite a bit.
Pam, NOW I'll kiss Vickie and have some wine.
Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions. I love this forum.

[H. John Kohl]

Jim,
I was talking with Dave and he suggested re-torquing or tightening the spring bracket bolt after your first trip so you don't find a missing nut like I did. Glad you got R done.

[scductman]

Jim glad you got done. It is alot better system and would have been better installed at the factory.
John I had better get under mine and ck. I have not done it since I installed them last year Must have 3500 miles on it. Great info here.
bobby

[Jay Bird]

Jim,
Good job. Glad you got it done. I agree with John about retourquing after the first trip. Before we leave for Jacksonville in two weeks, I am surely going to do mine.

[blarkman]

I got the ball joint remover tool from Harbbor price now on sale $32, it makes it a lot easier. No smasheded knuckles or damage to rig
bob

[blarkman]

I got the ball joint remover tool from Harbbor price now on sale $32, it makes it a lot easier. No smasheded knuckles or damage to rig
bob