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Old 08-24-2018, 12:00 AM   #101
Montana Man
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
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M.O.C. #21963
Originally Posted by richfaa View Post
If my memory is correct we have replaced 8 maybe more holding tanks between two Montana's since 2006.Most of them failed at the top seam and a couple failed while not moving and just sitting on our lot. We have replaced 3 on this 13 3402 2 gray and one black. We determined that these were not holding tanks. I remember replacing 1 gray, 2 galley, 2 black on the 06 3400 and I think we actually replaced 2 gray.

Keystone now uses new on piece tanks perhaps they are better.
I learned through my friends experience, Keystone does not mount the tanks according to the manufacturers specs.
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Old 09-02-2020, 07:57 PM   #102
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Oklahoma City
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M.O.C. #21640
Ruptured tanks

I have had 3 Keystone campers, a brand new 17’ Cougar, a 16’ Montana 362RD and now a 2008 Fuzion. I guess the tanks/supports got better over the years because the tanks on this 08’ had two leakers and recently the black tank blew a two foot crack out along the bottom during flush. I was at fault due to letting the tank overfill and get under pressure but jeeze that is harsh. Has anyone succeeded in obtaining parts from Travel star anymore or? The dealer quoted me $550 for a tank, I can get unknown brand cheaper online but I don’t really want cheap I want a tank that will hold up. I appreciate any suggestions. I have a TS2959ED made by Travel star 28X59X9 with end center drains.

Originally Posted by RRman View Post
UPDATE on "DITY Black Tank Replacement Thread"
Finally received my Tank last week from RV&Van surplus. Manufacturer is "TravelStar".
Appeared to be identical, however installation resulted in the removable bracket having to lowered about 1/8" at the outlet end (as much as we could lift it by hand/foot) Definitely a 2 person job ALL day job (Thanks DW!) and the Tank Outlet was just a little higher than the remaining Dump valve pipe so I didn't try to jack the tank and removable bracket up any more (the new tank appeared to have some thicker molding and was tight at the top). 3" Rubber Connector to the Valterra Dump Valve solved that slight Downhill misalignment. Reconnecting to the Vent (opposite corner of the tank from the outlet was a challenge to get the new rubber vent connector on the tank to go all the way around the Vent Pipe (was cut flush off the old Tank)
Replaced the Valterra Dump Valve seals (a little cruddy, but still serviceable after 12 years).
Reconnecting to the toilet involved a Black ABS 3" Connector to the Tank Inlet, some Pipe, a new 45 degree connector (had to remove the OEM connections to the old tank),
carefully lined up with the OEM Pipe/45 degree connector screwed under the Toilet and another 4" long 3" Rubber Connector.
Re-used the Tank Flusher and the new Tank Monitors (come with the tank) are working for now...
I added 4 support brackets ranging from a steel flat bar (under the outlet), to round conduit, to 1" AL Tube and 1" Tube with a wood block on top (most with some packing foam on top)
This actually took me several days while procuring parts.
Not an easy job and I still have to put the RV bottom insulation and plastic back up.
But within the realm of DITY
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:04 PM   #103
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Location: Gardnerville
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M.O.C. #17163
1. Flush tank til clean. 2. 3. Drop belly and wash the stuff off,. 4. Underneath remove slide valve, remove 6 wires from tank for heater and sensors, unscrew flush fitting from tank. 5. On top remove wall from cargo are to gain access to the pipes. Cut the 3 inch and 1.5 inch pipes To the tank. 6. Back under remove 4 bolts from the rail that holds the tank, slide rail away from tank and drop the tank..7. Replace or repair tank. 8. I used 2 rubber boots with clamps to reinstall the cut pipes from tank to toilet and vent pipes. 9. Reinstall... when installing the belly, use self tapping screws and fender washers.... thats it.. not hard at all...at least on the 3610rl...
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Old 10-14-2020, 01:53 PM   #104
Rhonda H
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Medicine Hat
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M.O.C. #25433
We have a 2020 384BR which has 2 tanks at the front, one grey and one black, and one grey at the back -- all 3 are 49 gals.
The front tanks have a full perimeter mounting boss that sticks out about an inch and a half from the side of the tank.
The tanks' inside bosses are supported/held up by 2 angle irons.
Just had the under-belly off for the following work (I know, it's got warranty but they would not have fixed half of what I did and I found most of this stuff once the under-belly was off):
1. I glued one tank heater back on that was not glued properly from factory.
2. Removed the 2 front tank valves (4 bolts each) to find the 3" tank holes about half blocked off with yellow plumber's glue, the tanks would never have drained properly.
3. Bore-scoped the internals -- all good and level probes clean -- a probe is basically just the head of the machine screw that is basically flush with the inside of the tank wall, with the threads on the
outside of the tank, which the wires are installed on.
4. Re-routed the front grey tank valve cable -- it was pinched between the tanks' 2 angle irons and the frame/floor above and routed between the toilet stack and vent stack of the black tank. Now the cable works freely.
So these tanks are fully supported on both sides by angle irons.
There are 2 straps, welded from one frame rail to the other, under the tanks but they don't contact the tanks and therefore do not support them, but would if the angle irons came off or broke.
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