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Old 04-04-2021, 05:52 PM   #21
chadhope
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexCamper View Post
Hi folks,

My wife and I just walked through a new Montana 3121rl at our local dealer. The trailer looks fantastic inside and we're very interested in buying it.

But we did find a few things that I'd like an opinion on. The trailer came from a dealership on the southern coast of Texas, and it looks like it had been exposed to the sea air for a while at that dealership.

There were a few minor things like a drawer next to the stove that didn't latch and the large weatherstripping on the basement door on the utility side was mostly detached and just flopping around. These to me are just typical 5th wheel lack of QC and easy enough to fix before we do our PDI.

The three things that stood out as somewhat worisome that I would really appreciate some advice on:

1. There was substantial exterior rust on the pinbox. Not the normal little bit of rust you see on the pin itself, but the whole pinbox was rusty to the point of flaking. I got under the trailer and looked around and saw a little light rust on the frame, but not much elsewhere that looked severe. I did also notice rust at the base of the propane tanks. It gave me the impression of a trailer that was a year or two old.

2. There was also an obvious leak at the base of the toilet.

3. The opening to the water heater was quite rusty and the anode rod had corosion on it. We've seen rust on the openings of water heaters locally, but this a little heavier than normal.

The dealer said they will replace the pinbox and clean up any rust before we take delivery, but I'm wondering if I should be on the lookout for other rust issues before laying down my cash.

Also, is that leak at the base of the toilet cause for concern.

We love the layout of the trailer and we have friends who have bought from that dealer in tha past with good experiences.

I would appreciate the sage advice of the folks here just to make sure this trailer isn't a lemon waiting to be squeezed once we buy it.

Thanks,
Jesse
What dealership did the trailer come from? If it was in Houston area it WAS NOT exposed to sea air.
 
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Old 04-04-2021, 06:01 PM   #22
Camp CA
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Run, run, run!! Lots of other new trailers in new condition for sale.
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Old 04-04-2021, 06:54 PM   #23
Wicked1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexCamper View Post
Hi folks,

My wife and I just walked through a new Montana 3121rl at our local dealer. The trailer looks fantastic inside and we're very interested in buying it.

But we did find a few things that I'd like an opinion on. The trailer came from a dealership on the southern coast of Texas, and it looks like it had been exposed to the sea air for a while at that dealership.

There were a few minor things like a drawer next to the stove that didn't latch and the large weatherstripping on the basement door on the utility side was mostly detached and just flopping around. These to me are just typical 5th wheel lack of QC and easy enough to fix before we do our PDI.

The three things that stood out as somewhat worisome that I would really appreciate some advice on:

1. There was substantial exterior rust on the pinbox. Not the normal little bit of rust you see on the pin itself, but the whole pinbox was rusty to the point of flaking. I got under the trailer and looked around and saw a little light rust on the frame, but not much elsewhere that looked severe. I did also notice rust at the base of the propane tanks. It gave me the impression of a trailer that was a year or two old.

2. There was also an obvious leak at the base of the toilet.

3. The opening to the water heater was quite rusty and the anode rod had corosion on it. We've seen rust on the openings of water heaters locally, but this a little heavier than normal.

The dealer said they will replace the pinbox and clean up any rust before we take delivery, but I'm wondering if I should be on the lookout for other rust issues before laying down my cash.

Also, is that leak at the base of the toilet cause for concern.

We love the layout of the trailer and we have friends who have bought from that dealer in tha past with good experiences.

I would appreciate the sage advice of the folks here just to make sure this trailer isn't a lemon waiting to be squeezed once we buy it.

Thanks,
Jesse

We have the same model bought 2-15-2018, Pinbox will have rust MFG suggested sanding and hitting with a fresh coat of paint but it will come back so see if you can get it replaced.

We had a lot of rust on the lip of hot water heater where anode goes, when we are not in use Suburban suggested keeping anode screwed in and we replace every year no issues.

Before you sign any papers make arrangements with dealer and make sure it is on your paperwork that it will be corrected before you take delivery otherwise some dealers tell you to come back and you will be screwed.

Learn to fix what you can in your own, Keystone is useless for the warranty so I have been contacting the mfg directly with much better response, that being said we have 14,000 miles in ours with 3 years of use and no major issues but I winterize and do just about everything myself with little effort and it has been good for us so far.


Best of luck to you but DO NOT let dealer tell you they will handle after you sign papers, they won’t none of them do get everything in writing period.


Good Luck
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:29 PM   #24
Firebush
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If this were a house, your home inspector would tell you to pass. We bought a used 2955RL 2 years ago and really didnt have enough knowledge about rvs.
These machines are built to minimum standards and most times substandard.
You should treat them like anything else that you might buy. A boat you get a survey.
A house you get it in inspected.. A used car you take to your mechanic.
Same with these rvs. You need a qualified
Rv inspector to check it out. The dealers dont want that from my experience.
Dont trust anything a seller or dealer tells you. Most have a jar of snake oil in their pocket. They are all quick to give some promise of making it all right to make the sale.
Get it inspected by a qualified person who sees it all and no vested interest in the sale.
The fact you have asked all these questions and see some problems, makes me believe you are suspicious of the unit
Dont fight your intuition!
The rv industry needs an iron fist brought down on them to make a better product and be more responsible to their customers.
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Old 04-04-2021, 07:34 PM   #25
JandC
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It almost sounds like this fiver was originally delivered to one dealer and they refused it, causing it to either be shuffled off to another dealer or taken clear back to Indiana. Like others have said, pass on this one and keep looking, which it sounds like you have already decided to do.
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:41 PM   #26
TexCamper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked1 View Post
We have the same model bought 2-15-2018, Pinbox will have rust MFG suggested sanding and hitting with a fresh coat of paint but it will come back so see if you can get it replaced.

We had a lot of rust on the lip of hot water heater where anode goes, when we are not in use Suburban suggested keeping anode screwed in and we replace every year no issues.

Before you sign any papers make arrangements with dealer and make sure it is on your paperwork that it will be corrected before you take delivery otherwise some dealers tell you to come back and you will be screwed.

Learn to fix what you can in your own, Keystone is useless for the warranty so I have been contacting the mfg directly with much better response, that being said we have 14,000 miles in ours with 3 years of use and no major issues but I winterize and do just about everything myself with little effort and it has been good for us so far.


Best of luck to you but DO NOT let dealer tell you they will handle after you sign papers, they won’t none of them do get everything in writing period.


Good Luck
Thanks, we passed on this trailer. Went to another dealer and ordered one from the factory. When it arrives we’ll be going over it with a fine toothed comb.
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Old 04-04-2021, 09:43 PM   #27
TexCamper
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Originally Posted by JandC View Post
It almost sounds like this fiver was originally delivered to one dealer and they refused it, causing it to either be shuffled off to another dealer or taken clear back to Indiana. Like others have said, pass on this one and keep looking, which it sounds like you have already decided to do.
Thanks,

We passed on the trailer. We went to a different dealer and ordered one from the factory. We’ll be going over it with a microscope before signing any paperwork.
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Old 04-05-2021, 05:22 AM   #28
Billyj571
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Originally Posted by BobStack View Post
Definitely walk away, you don’t want to start with major issues to save a few dollars. Be smart and wait for that perfect coach. As far as light rust that’s an ongoing issue on all of them that requires a little preventative maintenance. I use salt away on mine when I bought it and use mouse free which acts like an undercoating and has a oil in it that lubricates the frame and keeps all pests and rust away.
Mouse free ??? I sea ur from the cape I grew up in wareham sure miss it 2 yrs to retire then headed back to good old taxachussetts
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Old 04-05-2021, 07:50 AM   #29
ejerni
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Water damage

RUN!! Sounds like it was caught in a hurricane or storm. Unless you can see under the flooring, don't buy it!!
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Old 04-05-2021, 08:00 AM   #30
TexCamper
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Originally Posted by ejerni View Post
RUN!! Sounds like it was caught in a hurricane or storm. Unless you can see under the flooring, don't buy it!!
Thanks, we did run. We're wokring with another dealer and have a unit on order from the factory.
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Old 04-05-2021, 01:30 PM   #31
Mikelff
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Originally Posted by TexCamper View Post
Thanks for all the input folks. We've decided to pass on that particular Montana and order a fresh one from the factory. Another dealer in the area has one already on order that should be here in about 5 weeks.
If you order one you might want to consider full body paint. Also, as others have mentioned regarding the PDI, don't sign anything until your punch list of issues are corrected. The PDI list on the forum is a good place to start. Your repairs and fixes will go to the front of the line at the dealer, as long as they have parts, or can get them quickly. Your dealer is everything. If you have a good one, you should have far fewer headaches and be happy campers.
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Old 04-05-2021, 02:00 PM   #32
TexCamper
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Originally Posted by Mikelff View Post
If you order one you might want to consider full body paint. Also, as others have mentioned regarding the PDI, don't sign anything until your punch list of issues are corrected. The PDI list on the forum is a good place to start. Your repairs and fixes will go to the front of the line at the dealer, as long as they have parts, or can get them quickly. Your dealer is everything. If you have a good one, you should have far fewer headaches and be happy campers.
Thanks Mike,

Can you link that PDI checklist to me, I can't seem to find it on the forum?

Thanks again,
Jesse
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Old 04-05-2021, 06:07 PM   #33
Carl n Susan
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Phillyg posted one of the most complete PDI lists I have seen. The sosurce is in Thread https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=72800 at Post #3


Here is what it says. Someday it should be converted to Word or PDF and loaded in the Files section for everyone to find easily.

================================================== =


I used the following list. Takes about three hours to do a proper PDI.

TOOLS:
• Sweat towel
• Flashlight
• Air gauge
• Tools for hitch
• Torque wrench
• Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
• Square bit driver
• Channel locks or pliers
• Outlet tester
• Multimeter
• Creeper
• Pen and clipboard
TELL LD:
• Doing an extensive PDI
• Provide copy of checklist
• Unhook shore power, water, and sewer
• Ask for delivery invoice
OUTSIDE WALK AROUND:
• Roof Sealing & Fixtures
o inspect ladder and mounting points
o climb on the roof and inspect all seams, gaskets and any other place that the roof material has been cut or holes drilled, and caulking is intact
o check that all shrouds & covers are intact, unbroken and properly seated on the roof.
o check closely around air conditioners, vents, antennas, sewer vents, and side seams. Look for any signs of bubbles (large and small), delamination, foreign objects or protruding screw or nail heads under the membrane (if a rubber roof)

• Windows

o Check closely inside and out around each window to make sure it has been properly aligned and sealed.
#8195;
• Entry Doors

o check the gasket used on all doors for proper adhesive and coverage. Look closely at the door from the inside and confirm that it sits flush against the inside of the doorjamb. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock. The main door should open & close smoothly and lock without undue effort. Check that the screen door opens smoothly alone and locks to the main door without any extra effort

• Baggage Compartments

o open and close each door checking for alignment and gasketing. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock. All hinges should be tight and secure and the latches should hold the door tightly closed and still be easy to open. Look for any signs of moisture that might indicate rain leakage. Verify that compartment lighting (if fitted) works properly. Any gas cylinders used for keeping to door open should be properly installed so as not to interfere with items stored in the compartment. If clamp-type door hold-opens are used, make sure they are present and hold the door correctly.

• Sewer, Fresh Water and other outside Connections

o Inspect to ensure nothing is broken or deformed. If appropriate at this time, make sure you understand how each valve or fitting works. Understand the proper function of the black and gray water valves and proper markings. If tank flushing is installed, understand how it operates. Understand where the low point drains are for the fresh water system. Pull, push or turn all valves.
o Understand and operate the winterizing by-pass plumbing
o Telephone & Cable TV Connections. Find and understand the telephone and cable connections. Make sure a weather cap is present for each connector and that connectors are properly identified & mounting plates are properly sealed.

• Propane. If the tank(s) are contained in a compartment, there should be no possible way for propane to enter into the RV or any other compartment. Understand how the regulator works and how it switches between cylinders. Confirm that a leak test has been performed on both pigtails between the tanks and regulator and the rest of the system. Locate and understand the operation of the main shut off valve (if any).

• Batteries. Check the battery box to verify both batteries installed, box is ventilated and that any compartment slide mechanisms work properly. Verify that no battery cables are rubbing on any part of the frame because that will eventually end up with a short circuit and possible fire. Understand the battery types provided and how to maintain them. Check battery charge with multimeter.

• Paint, decals & siding. Carefully check the paint finish and decals. Site down the side of the unit to check for bumps or depressions in the siding. Divide each side of the unit into 2, 3 or 4 sections and inspect for siding issues: color variations, dents or irregularities. Do the same for the ends of the unit Look at places where vinyl film is used to make sure it is free of any air bubbles. Check ends of any decals for uniformity or "mistakes" that may have gouged the siding. Look closely where masking tape was used for paint graphics to make sure there is no over-spray. Carefully check for surface smoothness and any place when paint coverage is marginal or where there are bubbles.

• Tires and Wheels

o Closely inspect the tires and wheels and understand the proper inflation pressure and load rating.
o Verify the torque of the lug nuts or have the PDI person do it while you watch. Find out the proper jacking point for the trailer and what kind of jack to use. Determine if your tow vehicle lug nut wrench will fit the lug nuts on the trailer or if another size is necessary
o Check each tire pressure
o Check the condition & pressure of the spare tire. Understand how the carrier works if it is the fold-down type.

• Awnings. Extend and retract each awning paying particular attention to how the awning is locked in the retracted position. Make sure all springs, locks and supports work well and are properly aligned. Wiggle the mounting points for the support arms to get a feeling for how solidly they are mounted to the body.
#8195;
• Chassis

o Inspect all air and/or hydraulic lines, wiring, shock absorber attachments, and in general every place that a wire or pipe could rub against something that could cause a problem later. All wiring and piping should be properly fastened
o Inspect axles, confirm their rating
o Inspect springs, shackles and all bolts

• 6-Point Leveling. Have LD show operation of system. Check each jack and master hydraulics system for leaks. Operate hookup recall.

• Slide Outs

o Have LD show operation of all slides
o Check all slide seals retracted and extended, inside and out. You should not be able to find any places where you can see light or detect airflow. Use a flashlight to look into dark corners. Understand the mechanism that extends and retracts each slide.
o Operate each slide several times and understand any restrictions on operation, including places where slides might hit open cabinet doors or other obstructions that should be stored for travel.
o Understand the manual retraction process and actually perform the retraction as if the automatic mechanism had failed. Look for proper alignment of any wheels that may ride on carpet or other flooring, to insure proper clearance. Understand any locking mechanisms that are used to hold the top of the slide out tight against the top of the RV.

INSIDE FIT AND FINISH:

• Cabinets

o Inspect & open all cabinets to insure that all the hinges and latches work well. Pull each drawer out to its stop, return it closed and then try to open it like road vibration might do.
o Look inside cabinets for water leaks and that all the wiring and pipes are well fastened.
o Inspect the linings (if any) to insure they are fastened securely. Run your hand along all edges, front & back to check for delamination or loose edges on molding or vinyl wraps.

• Molding and Trim. Inspect all moldings and trim on walls, ceiling, doors and furniture for looseness or sloppiness in assembly

• Lighting. Operate every light switch and observe its function. Use the monitor panel to check battery levels. Understand and verify any battery disconnect switches. (at this point, only 12V lighting can be tested, as the unit is NOT connected to shore power yet)

• Refrigerator. Ensure fridge is operating on 12v power source thru inverter/converter/ charger.

• Closets. Open and close all closet doors checking for free operation and proper alignment. Hanger rods should be properly fastened and secure. Check out the lighting that is provided and any switches that are used.

• Furniture

o Examine every piece of furniture to check for construction, upholstery, pattern and cloth matching. Extend sofa beds, looking for proper operation, alignment and all cushions.
o Operate recliner
o Blinds. Operate each blind and check for alignment. Look at all valances and trim to be sure they are secured.
o Counter Tops. Inspect all counter tops for alignment and fastening. Make sure that any trim pieces that should be there are in fact tight. Check for caulking quality everywhere there may be water, especially edges near a sink. Check the installation of sinks and faucets.

• Windows - Open and close every window and operate the latches. Pay particular attention to the two safety egress windows or emergency windows and make sure they operate smoothly & easily.

• Floor Coverings - Inspect carpet and other floor coverings in all corners to insure that they have been properly fastened down. Check areas that slide outs may roll over for pulled threads, cuts or other problems. Check closely for gouges or cuts in linoleum tile

• Wall Coverings - Check to make sure that all the wall coverings actually cover and join properly. Look for any discoloration or patch jobs that may cover hidden problems. Try to find any places where it is not perfect since now is the time to get it fixed while matching patterns are in stock.

OPERATIONAL TEST OF ALL HOUSE SYSTEMS:

• Shore Power Systems
o Now is the time to connect up to shore power. Pull out all of the electric cord, confirm the length and inspect the plug for proper attachment. Verify if one or two outside connections. Inside the unit, check any 110V lighting, switches and outlets for proper wiring/polarity
o Find the GFI-protected outlets and test using the push button. Understand which receptacles "downstream" from the GFI are protected. Any electrical problems here should be corrected immediately.
o Converter - Confirm the operation of the inverter/converter/charger that is installed. Turn on several interior lights to create a load for the converter and confirm no excessive converter noise or vibration. Have the PDI person explain the operation of the converter, the AC circuit breakers and the DC fuses. Make sure that there is a written list of the loads connected to each.
o Residential Fridge - Check 120v residential fridge for operation, including water for ice maker, and proper mounting brackets are installed.
o Water Pump - Your PDI person should have filled the fresh water tank, so now you can test the function of the water pump. After turning it on, you should hear it pump for several seconds, even up to a minute to create enough pressure in the system. If the pump does not shut off, then there is a problem. Run water in the kitchen and bathroom sink and notice that the pump will come back on until proper water pressure is restored. Now is the time to fix a noisy pump if it is vibrating or making any irritating sounds.
o City Water System - Turn off the pump, connect up to city water (use a regulator if overly high pressure is suspected) and confirm that the connection works correctly. Look for leaks under sinks, toilet and shower. Confirm the operation of all fixtures.
o Tankage - Re-fill the fresh water tank if necessary and run water into the gray tank to verify the gauge reading and that there are no leaks. Filling the gray tank until water comes up in the shower will make it easier to find leaks inside & out. Do the same thing to the black water tank, including filling so that water comes up inside the toilet. Check for leaks (if the toilet is installed correctly, there will be no leaks!) You can fill the black water tank by using the tank flushing system (if fitted), by using a garden hose adapter for the sewer connection through a backflow preventer. Check the gauges for accuracy while you are filling. Drain the gray and black water tanks using the sewer hose.
o Water Heater - Try the water heater on propane first. A few seconds after you turn it on, you should hear the click of the igniter and the small pop when the burner lights. The red light should stay on until that process happens. If it does not ignite, then there is a problem. Turn on the AC element in the water heater (if connected) and confirm operation. Make sure you know the location of the electrical switch at the water heater and the correct operation of the interior switch. Confirm that hot (or warm water depending on how long the water heater has been on) comes out of the hot tap at the various sinks.
o Furnace – Have LD explain thermostat operation for heating and HVAC. Turn the furnace on and set a temperature demand that is at least 10 degrees hotter than ambient temperature. In about 30 seconds, you should hear the furnace fans come on. Shortly thereafter you should hear the click of the igniter and the sound of the burner. Let the furnace blow and you should get hot air at about 110 degrees coming out of all vents. Check each one. Now turn the furnace down and the hot air will gradually turn cooler and the fans will eventually stop after the furnace has cooled sufficiently.
o Air Conditioners - Some air conditioners also have a heat strip or heat pump feature so now is the time to verify these functions. Turn on the air conditioner. After a couple of minutes, cool air, 20 degrees cooler than ambient, should be coming out of the registers. If you unit has ducting in the ceiling, make sure a good airflow comes out of each register. Learn how to clean the filters at this time.
o Determine where tank heaters are located and how they operate.
o Propane and Carbon Monoxide Alarms & Smoke Detector- Have LD use gas sampler to be sprayed at the alarm to test its operation. Have them perform this test while you watch and learn how the alarms work. Confirm that there is a new battery in the Smoke Detector (write the date on it for reference) Activate the test button to check operation of the smoke detector. Understand how to turn it off.
#8195;
o TV VCR Antenna and Switching - Review and understand the switching system that allows the selection of viewing channel on the front and rear TV. Raise the TV UHF/VHF antenna and learn how to turn on the amplifier and the DC outlet. Activate the control on the front TV that scans for local stations. Learn how to rotate the antenna to maximize the quality of the picture.
o Roof Air Vents - Test the operation of kitchen and bathroom air vents making sure they open and turn on properly (if powered). Verify that they retract and close tightly. Check any other vents for proper operation.
o Microwave - Put a cup of cold water in the microwave and set the timer for 5 minutes. The water in the cup should boil in less than 5 minutes. Make sure there are no unusual sounds coming from the Microwave.
o Propane Stove - Turn on one burner of the stovetop while the AC's and Microwave are running and the automatic igniters should cause a strong spark to light the burner. Turn on the other burners to verify that there is enough propane flow to operate the refrigerator, water heater and all the burners. If everything is OK, turn off the burners on the stove. If your unit has an oven, then understand how the pilot is lit and verify its operation now. Note: Sometimes the burner igniters interfere with the operation of the thermostats for the roof AC. This is the time to find this problem.
o Connect tow vehicle to check electric brakes, pull emergency cut-off to ensure it’s working
o Check all outside 12v running lights, including brake lights
o Have LD instruct about rear view camera and operation

ACCEPTANCE:

• If PDI fails in whole, discuss with LD possible solutions/cancellation.
• If PDI fails in part, and failures can be resolved within 24 hours, arrange for re-inspection time and date. If failures cannot be resolved within 24 hours, but unit is “liveable” until it can be returned to LD for service, negotiate date and time for return, and obtain LD written agreement of anticipated repairs.
• When you are satisfied sign the acceptance/finance papers
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There is more to life than fuel mileage.
2012 Montana 3700RL Big Sky Package towed by a 2015 Ford F350 6.7L PSD 4WD CC LWB

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