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Old 01-31-2021, 10:09 PM   #1
Bill.vannuys
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Kitchen Slide Crooked

Looking for any help concerning our kitchen slide that is crooked and 2” short of fully extended on the left side when looking at the slide from inside.

We did have a loud bang a few days ago when extending the slide in freezing and snowy weather (Kansas); seemed to be stuck on one side. I suspect the left slide rail jumped a few teeth on the rolling gear during extension (there is a small toothed roller under the left and right slide rail that the rails ride over during movement) before it broke loose and started to extend. Perhaps iced and stuck on one side.

The two toothed roller gears are connected by a square steel bar that forces them to turn equally during extension/retraction.

How do I Correct the crooked slide alignment?

Perhaps disconnect the steel bar connecting the left and right toothed rollers, so I can manually straighten the slide before reconnecting the steel bar connecting the two rollers????

Just looking for any advice since I’m in Texas for the week, but hope to get this fixed and go back to Kansas in a week. Slide is binding when retracting. I’m not sure I can get a Mobil RV repairman and am looking for options.

Thanks for any ideas.

Bill Van Nuys
 
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:41 PM   #2
rohrmann
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Have you checked to see if one of the 1/4" bolts on the drive shaft that connects the two gear packs has broken? I've also had a gear pack that some of the teeth of the gear broke, which caused a slide to do that. If you have to replace a gear pack, be sure to count the number of teeth on the gear, as on our 2012, they used 18 teeth gears, and they are now using 15 teeth gears, and they are not interchangeable, as the rack has to match. the first photo is the one with broken teeth, and the second photo is the new gear pack, which comes with the 15 teeth gear in front and to get the 18 teeth gear, that has to be ordered separately. I have ordered them directly from Lippert. https://store.lci1.com/25-x-25-stand...ts-324869.html
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Old 02-01-2021, 05:42 AM   #3
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Bill, I helped a friend correct a similar problem on his unit. It's been awhile back so memory is a little fuzzy on the details. Following Bob's suggestion, if the gear packs are OK, remove the shear bolt from the side that is in the correct extended position. Put a long wrench on the square tube and rotate it clock wise. That will extend that side of the slide. Someone will have to watch from the inside to tell you when the slide is in the fully extended position. Tweak either side until the holes line up for the shear bolt, and you should be good to go. Probably clear as mud. If it doesn't make sense give me a call. You have the number. Good luck.
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Old 02-03-2021, 04:29 PM   #4
Bill.vannuys
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To remove the gear pack, do I just remove the two long bolts? It looks like then the gear just drops down.

Does this gear bear any weight? Or, does it just go back without having to brace or jack the slide?

I want to remove one side, but don’t want to make a bigger problem by not being able to put the gear back.

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 02-03-2021, 05:33 PM   #5
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You must lift the slide slightly to take the weight off the rollers to R&R the gear pack. Try jimcol's recommendation first if the gears are all there.
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Old 03-29-2021, 09:23 AM   #6
dfb
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You need a new part to keep the gears from jumping teeth..i have replaced about 4 gearpaks. No matter what I did the slide would make a popping noise indicating the teeth were juming.. The part bolts to the gear pak on one side and then bolts to the bottom of yhe slide. Had ours fixed at Gibbs Rv in Coos bay. We did not use a large wrench to move the slideout. Remove the gear pak bolts then use the motor or move slide by hand. Bring slide about half way out and measure both slide ends at the moulding to make both side equal..Do not try to make any other adjuments.
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Old 03-29-2021, 09:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.vannuys View Post
To remove the gear pack, do I just remove the two long bolts? It looks like then the gear just drops down.

Does this gear bear any weight? Or, does it just go back without having to brace or jack the slide?

I want to remove one side, but don’t want to make a bigger problem by not being able to put the gear back.

Thanks for any advice.
After moving the slide out, we put a jack on the outside of the slide and jacked the slide up slighty just to get the weight off. please see my above post.. You need the part that prevents the rail and gear from jumping teeth..
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Old 06-30-2021, 07:25 PM   #8
Bill.vannuys
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Exclamation

Thanks to all who provided information on repairing my slide. Finally Fixed!

Before leaving Texas, we had the mobile RV Tech "try" to repair our slide - dropping gear pack, realigning and then reattaching the gear pack ...then operating the slide to watch the teeth jump again and then be out of alignment. The Tech gave up and could not find the solution.

I cut my losses and made an appointment with D&T RV Repair in Goshen, Indiana for mid-June. For me, it is well worth the drive to get something fixed correctly in Goshen. Plus, we get to eat at Lux Cafe.

The D & T Technician heated to remove and clean all of my slide adjustment screws (They were a mess) and correctly adjusted the slide. When they also could not get the slide to stop jumping teeth, they called in a retired expert from Lippert who was involved in the slide development. He had the slide fixed in 30 minutes and working better than ever.

The problem: The channel that the slide rail rides in had crowned at the top and created enough of a gap that the rail could raise up when hydraulic pressure was initiated and allow the rail to jump teeth.

The solution: Involved placing 2 shims at the top of the channel that the rail slides into. The shims were washers that were cut (notched) on one side so they would fix themselves to a small tab in the top of the box (channel). This shims keep the rail from being able to rise up and the expert said the box (channel) will not crown any more (it has crowned as far as it can go).

I will add a picture of the repair where you can see 2 shiny silver shims barely visible above the rail and attached inside the channel.

Additionally, he said there is a modification that can be added to keep the channel from crowning at the top and allowing the rail to jump teeth....BUT, that modification has to be applied BEFORE the box becomes crowned. I will add a picture of that modification item below.

Thanks for the assistance. Unfortunately it was not something I (or the RV Mobile Tech) could fix.

This is the second time D & T RV quickly repaired a significant problem with my Montana when others had tried and failed. Thanks D & T RV Repair.

Thanks again for the repair information that helped me understand the problem.
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Old 06-30-2021, 09:19 PM   #9
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They make a bracket that does the same thing..they put one on mine
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Old 08-22-2021, 08:11 AM   #10
Piperfan
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Bill,
Does the bracket modification have a part number so that I can order them?
Thanks
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Old 11-09-2021, 02:38 PM   #11
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Anyone got a link or a part number for that bracket pictured above? I'm having the same problem with the arm lifting off the gear pack.
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Old 11-09-2021, 03:02 PM   #12
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Nevermind, I believe I found it...
https://store.lci1.com/service-assy-364331.html
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