Battery Disconnect

[Baldicon]

What is the battery disconnect switch in the convience center supposed to cut off? With the key turned off and removed, everything dc related still works. Watched a video on winterizing and they cut the water pump on/off using the convience center battery switch. My switch has no affect on the pump.

On a another note, I could not get the pump to pull antifreeze from the bottle. I had to use a funnel and pour the anitfreeze into the hose connected to the winterization connection. And with all faucets closed, the pump would never shut off. The pump on our old trailer would run until a pressure swtich would cut it off, and then would run again when a faucet was opend and the pressure was reduced. I assume this system works the same way.

Thanks in advance.

[rohrmann]

The battery disconnect opens the 12 volt feed to the inside panel. The switch is open only when the red plastic key can be removed from the switch. Unless the pump is wired directly from the battery, it should be off with the battery switch turned off, because the pump is usually fused in the panel.


If your pump is not drawing antifreeze, make sure all the valves are in the correct position. The tank fill valve must be in the city position, the water heater bypass valve should be in bypass, and of course, your winterize valve needs to be in the winterize position. Some have found that a second hose gasket is needed on the suction hose that you use at the winterize inlet to get antifreeze into the system.


Attached is a line drawing I made of the plumbing of the convenience center on our rig, looking at it from the rear, and maybe it is similar to yours and helps explain what the valves go to.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Baldicon

<snip>
What is the battery disconnect switch in the convience center supposed to cut off? With the key turned off and removed, everything dc related still works. Watched a video on winterizing and they cut the water pump on/off using the convience center battery switch. My switch has no affect on the pump...
</snip>

If you are connected to shore power, everything 12V will continue to work even with the key OFF and removed. The converter (powered by 120V shore power) provides the 12V needed.

[DQDick]

But with the switch off you will probably not be charging your batteries.

[Montana Man]

The battery switch in the inconvenience center is worthless except for being impressive looking while the trailer is on the showroom floor.

[Butch & Kathy]

I installed a knife switch on my battery negative terminal for use when in storag. No more discharge issues.

[Trailer Trash]

Hi, I’m considering adding a 2nd battery and noticed today that there is another wiring harness in the area. We bought the 5th wheel trailer new 2018 330RL. Any ideas?

[Dsull]

While we're talking batteries and Disconnects, should you disconnect the batteries and run a separate trickle charger / maintainer, or can you just hook shore power and let them charge? I've been told both ways but with other Trailers/Motorhomes.

Running 2 6 volt interstate Golf cart batteries if that matters

[The Bone]

Only way to completely stop using 12 volt power is to put in a disconnect switch in the Ground wire. Only the ground wire. If you do it in the positive you run the chance of a short which is bad. I got a switch from Napa auto parts you turn it to shut off the power. You have things like smoke detectors or a carbon dioxide detectors that will be on all the time.

[phillyg]

The two disconnects don't turn off everything. Best thing is a knife switch at the battery.

[Drussell]

You might try a smaller diameter suction hose pulling out of the antifreeze. Less work for the pump. Helped me

[Bill Queen]

I installed a second red switch by my batteries in the ground line to frame. this i believes shuts off 12 volt power. but if your hooked to shore power would you be getting a feed to your batteries from that source to keep them charged up??? am I making any sense of this??

[Bill Queen]

excellent line drawing, I am going to try and make a copy of it for file. thanks Rohrmann

[Snoopy]

second harness is for second battery on the 331rl, is my guess.

[TWC84]

I just winterized my trailer last weekend and used the battery disconnect in the convenience center like you described. Had the same issue until I realized I had forgotten to pull the plug on the shore power! It worked fine after I removed shore power. I have also had trouble getting the pump to pull the antifreeze. I use an extra washer like rohrmann mentioned and I also raise the antifreeze ( I use a 5-gal bucket) above the input to get it started. Once it starts, it's good to go. I may try a smaller diameter hose like Drussell suggested ...

[Livin salty]

I just experienced the EXACT same thing. I find it humorous now, that it’s done. Coming back from the GUlf Coast Christmas trip to Colorado I figured I would get it done in Sweetwater, TX. After 4 attempts of closing and opening the faucets, playing with the valves, we finally figured it out and ended up doing the same thing...kind of. I’m not smart enough to think about the funnel trick. In frustration I raised the jugs with siphon hose attached anove the pulp and it sucked it right up. Never had that issue before on the previous 3 RV’s we have had. I was concerned some of the lines were already froze or the water pump seals were dried and failing. My wife and I laughed about over a beer, maybe not as hard as the on lookers. I can’t imagine how silly I looked holding the jug above my head. All good now.
Safe travels, Dirk

[Mark N.]

That "disconnect" in my Montana was the single most stupidly designed piece of hardware on the rig. Thankfully, because it was so very useless, I never used it, therefore it was one of the few things that never gave me a problem on my ex-Montana.

[Baldicon]

I apologize about the delay in responding, our camper has been at the lake and I didn't bring it back home until a couple of days ago. I checked my switch positions and were as follows: water heater bypass = ON, winterize = ON and tank fill power fresh = Normal Flow. So, I think the valves were aligned correctly, and I did add a second hose washer to the winterizing port after antifreeze leaked around it when I first tried pouring antifreeze in (thanks Bob and Becky). I did wonder if the hose I was using was too large, but didn't have anything else with me (thanks Drussell). And yes to Carl n Susan, I was still connected to shore power, so that explains why the switch did nothing. That one should have been obvious, but for me the "light never came on" (I'm trying to be funny but not very good at it). I still think the pump is not working correctly. I tried lifting the jug as TWC84 and Livin salty did but still couldn't get it to work. It goes back to the dealer in a couple of weeks for warranty work, and I'll add it to the list to be checked. Thanks to all that responded.

[RichR]

I can't get myunit to pull antifreeze out of the bottle either,so I use a funnel.Have to hold the funnel up high but it works that way so, that's what I do.

[kencare]

I used to prime the pump also. Then read on here that the flushing connection has a check valve in it. The pump can't open it to draw the antifreeze, if you take the coned screen out and reverse it, the cone pushes the check valve open and the pump will draw the antifreeze. JUST remember to change cone screen back so check will work after done flushing.