Battery not hooked up in panel box… help

[rkrbaker]

Hello,

We recently purchased a used 2013 Mountaneer 290RLT
We have shore power and everything works. Once we unhook we have nothing except power for slides of course. We had the converter tested and it works perfect. Nothing 12V at all. We looked in the panel box and the battery is not hooked up to the panel box. The converter is but not the battery. Could there be a reason for this? Please help.

[Carl n Susan]

If you have no 12v at all when shore power is removed, how do the slides operate? They are 12V actuated. My first guess is the red disconnect key in the convenience center is in the position where the key can be removed which means the batteries are disconnected from the "normal" 12v wiring system. The slide power is separate from the disconnect system and will operate regardless of the disconnect switch position. "Normal" 12v things like lights will not work, nor will the battery be charged, when the battery is disconnected.

The battery is connected to the converter. Exactly where is dependent on the brand of converter being used

[BB_TX]

Are you saying the 12 vdc fuse panel has a battery connection terminal but has no battery wire to it?

[rkrbaker]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

If you have no 12v at all when shore power is removed, how do the slides operate? They are 12V actuated. My first guess is the red disconnect key in the convenience center is in the position where the key can be removed which means the batteries are disconnected from the "normal" 12v wiring system. The slide power is separate from the disconnect system and will operate regardless of the disconnect switch position. "Normal" 12v things like lights will not work, nor will the battery be charged, when the battery is disconnected.

The battery is connected to the converter. Exactly where is dependent on the brand of converter being used

Thank you for the response.

As far as the slide, we aren’t sure, we just know they do. 🤷🏼*♀️

The switch has been checked multiple times by the hubby (mainly bc of me lol) and has always been in the correct position.

We are at a loss. :/

[rkrbaker]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

Are you saying the 12 vdc fuse panel has a battery connection terminal but has no battery wire to it?

If that is the main fuse panel then yes. Sorry, not too knowledgeable there. It’s where all the tiny fuses are, where the converter is connected.

Thanks!

[BB_TX]

I don’t know what variations there are. But as far as I know, there should be a wire from the battery (via an auto reset circuit breaker and the disconnect switch) connected to the positive terminal on the fuse panel.

[rkrbaker]

That is what my husband is thinking but we just weren’t sure. On the panel cover it has the wiring diagram and shows one connected as well as the converter. We will definitely have to wait for a tech to come for that, not going to mess around with the electrical stuff ourselves aside from fuses and such.

Thanks again!

[Carl n Susan]

Here is a basic description of the 12V wring system from previous discussions. All you need is a Volt/Ohm meter to measure voltage at various points. Relatively easy and safe from electrocution with 12V.


-------------------------------------------------------------
The 12V flow from the converter to the batteries is pretty straight forward. As others have pointed out, here are the places to look. All connections should have 13.5 +/- Volts if the converter is working.

• The converter is part of the power distribution panel -Ensure the CB for it is On
• There are Reverse Polarity Fuses on the converter which protect against connecting a battery backwards. - Ensure they are not blown.
• Check the output voltage at the converter. - it should be in the 13.5V DC range.
• The power then runs to the Disconnect Switch in the Convenience Center. - Ensure the Red Key is in the position where it can *NOT* be removed. If removed, this interrupts the power charging the battery. The Disconnect Switch is not known to fail, but you can remove it to check there is power in and out of it just to be sure.
• The power next flows to the group of 50 amp self-resetting CBs behind the battery. We all know about the one that hiccups and interrupts the hydraulic system. That one also passes power to/from the converter and batteries. You want to check it and it's brother (it is in the current flow to the battery) to ensure there is 13.5V on *EACH* side of the CB.
• The last connection is the one from the 50 amp CBs to the batteries. Ensure you have clean connections and the cables are not corroded (watch out for internal corrosion under the shrink wrap).

Somewhere along this path there will be the problem. A simple VOM should find it. I hope this helps.

[BB_TX]

Is there a large wire laying loose somewhere near where that connection should be? Maybe behind the fuse panel?

If you can see behind the battery disconnect switch and it has wires on both terminals, then there must be a lost battery wire running somewhere.

[rkrbaker]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Here is a basic description of the 12V wring system from previous discussions. All you need is a Volt/Ohm meter to measure voltage at various points. Relatively easy and safe from electrocution with 12V.


-------------------------------------------------------------
The 12V flow from the converter to the batteries is pretty straight forward. As others have pointed out, here are the places to look. All connections should have 13.5 +/- Volts if the converter is working.

• The converter is part of the power distribution panel -Ensure the CB for it is On
• There are Reverse Polarity Fuses on the converter which protect against connecting a battery backwards. - Ensure they are not blown.
• Check the output voltage at the converter. - it should be in the 13.5V DC range.
• The power then runs to the Disconnect Switch in the Convenience Center. - Ensure the Red Key is in the position where it can *NOT* be removed. If removed, this interrupts the power charging the battery. The Disconnect Switch is not know to fail, but you can remove it to check there is power in and out of it just to be sure.
• The power next flows to the group of 50 amp self-resetting CBs behind the battery. We all know about the one that hiccups and interrupts the hydraulic system. That one also passes power to/from the converter and batteries. You want to check it and it's brother (it is in the current flow to the battery) to ensure there is 13.5V on *EACH* side of the CB.
• The last connection is the one from the 50 amp CBs to the batteries. Ensure you have clean connections and the cables are not corroded (watch out for internal corrosion under the shrink wrap).

Somewhere along this path there will be the problem. A simple VOM should find it. I hope this helps.

Thank you so much.

[rkrbaker]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

Is there a large wire laying loose somewhere near where that connection should be? Maybe behind the fuse panel?

If you can see behind the battery disconnect switch and it has wires on both terminals, then there must be a lost battery wire running somewhere.

Thank you. He will check that as well.

We know there isn’t one behind the fuse panel, had all of that out today. Not sure about the other.

[Daryles]

Here is a picture of those red self resetting circuit breakers on the wall behind the batteries Carl was talking about.
On battery power (shore power removed) voltage flows from the battery + to the left post of breaker 1. Then goes to the right post of breaker 2. Then from the left post of breaker 2 down and under and goes back to the "Battery Disconnect" switch in the convenience center. From there it goes to the circuit breaker panel.
As Carl said check each post of those red self resetting circuit breakers for 12vdc (with shore power removed). Which ever one is missing 12vdc that breaker is bad. Replace it with a Blue Sea or Bussmann breaker.

I would take the battery to an auto parts store and have it tested.

[Thetraveler]

They may have disconnected the battery to prevent a parasitic discharge while it isnt being used.

[BB_TX]

rkrbaker - have you solved the problem? Or gotten deeper into your troubleshooting?