Black Water Shut Off Valve Problems - Montana Owners Club

8e3k0 · 08-03-2015, 05:45 AM

Sorry if this is a repeated question. On my 09 Montana 3400RL the black water tank valve will not shut to the closed position. It opens and closes but not to the full closed position. The valve allows liquid (no Solids ) into the main drain pipe and when you pull the sewer cap I get liquid sewage coming out each time we want to dump. Evidently there is something (paper/solids) that is not allowing the blade of the valve to close. The 09 3400Rl is one of the first years that the front frame was lowered to allow a larger basement area.
Has anyone changed this valve out and how much work is it? Talking to the Dealer and they claim that there where two different valve types with remote cables that could have been installed at the factory. So this is something where you would have remove the valve and cable and then order the correct one. What be nice to have one on hand to install on site.
Any ideas and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ellis

waynemoore · 08-03-2015, 07:08 AM

Put a valve at the end of the pope where the cap goes. That way you can hook up the hose to the sewer then open the valve. No more crapy suprises.

1retired06 · 08-03-2015, 07:11 AM

For immediate fix, get a valterra flush king with external flush valve. Hooks right to your sewer connection. I had a hard time when I had to replace. Dropping the belly was easy, reinstalling was harder. Re the valve itself, I worked for hours and could not get the replacement in, just too tight. I ended up cutting the old one out and re routing the sewer line. i had the correct cable/valve kit, but took a couple of trips to lowes and a very handy neighbor before we got it back together. Re your draining issue, it goes without saying that as the liquid drains out, solid buildup results.

Lkelly3400 · 08-03-2015, 07:16 AM

Another thing I would suggest is purchase a Flush King (Amazon or Camping World). This will do a much better job of flushing the black water tank and should eliminate solids blocking the dump valve. I had the same problem on my 2015 3510 RL and this fixed it.

Clemson1881 · 08-03-2015, 12:31 PM

As advised install an additional gate valve at the cap. Get some Calgon and put a couple capfuls in the tank each use. After you go through several tanks your valve will likely start working normally again. Keep using one cap of Calgon going forward to maintain functionality.

rohrmann · 08-03-2015, 02:59 PM

If you do end up replacing the valve, don't fight it, just cut the pipe between the elbow at the valve and the wye fitting where the gray line connects with the black, and when you install the new valve, connect the two cut parts with a rubber sewer coupling with hose clamps.

1retired06 · 08-03-2015, 03:07 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by rohrmann

If you do end up replacing the valve, don't fight it, just cut the pipe between the elbow at the valve and the wye fitting where the gray line connects with the black, and when you install the new valve, connect the two cut parts with a rubber sewer coupling with hose clamps.

Great advice. I did it the hard way, with rigid pipe. Would have been a lot quicker with the flex sleeve.

davidaf · 08-03-2015, 04:27 PM

Had the same thing happen when new. Flush king resolved the issue. First thing I put on any RV is an external knife valve.

dinkitech · 08-04-2015, 06:04 AM

Where can you get calgon? I can't find it anywhere. Target used to sell it, but haven't carried it for 5 years. Dinkitech

1retired06 · 08-04-2015, 07:47 AM

Many walmarts carry

jackel1959 · 08-04-2015, 10:55 AM

Ellis,
I replaced ours back in March of this year with this one: Valterra TC372 72" Flexible Cable Kit with 3" Valve.

Ours did the same thing yours did at first, so I took it apart and there was a piece of toilet paper that was preventing the valve from closing all the way. After I removed that, the valve worked okay, but became increasingly more difficult to open and close.

I went back and forth on whether or not to go with electric or the manual cable valve. After talking with a few RV Repair folks I decided to stick with the manual cable valve. This new one operates effortlessly. One of the things the RV people told me was to be sure to secure the cable so it cannot move around much when opening and closing valve.

The job itself is not that difficult and can be done by one person in an afternoon. I recommend (and this is experience speaking) to lower the front end of the rig down as low as you can so you don't get any liquid surprises when do disassemble the valve. When I put the new valve in, I didn't use the flexible coupler/pipe and had no difficulty.

The instructions that came with the new valve are thorough and complete. The only thing I would have done differently is to replace the bathroom gray tank valve too while I had the belly pan dropped because now it is starting to get more difficult to open and close.

Hope this helps.

Jack

Clemson1881 · 08-04-2015, 05:33 PM

Calgon is available at the "Evil Empire" (Wal-Mart). One of the few things I'll buy there. It's not easy to find, but it's there.

PackerFan · 08-05-2015, 06:26 AM

You can also find Calgon at most Grocery stores. Look in the laundry soap department. It is a small (about 1 Quart size) plastic bottle, white in color.

DO NOT get the Bath Calgon!! You will have bubbles coming out of your vent pipe going down the road and look like a Circus Wagon!

8e3k0 · 08-10-2015, 04:29 PM

Thanks for all the help and support. Won't be tackling the valve till late Nov or Dec when we ae in Arizona. Will install a valve on the outlet first. Lots of great advice.

CORattler · 08-16-2015, 03:57 PM

Same problem and symptoms here.
Mine turned out to be one of those dropin packets that you toss down your toilet. It was jammed between the seal and the valve blade. No more dropin packets for us. Liquid only from now on.

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by jackel1959

Ellis,
I replaced ours back in March of this year with this one: Valterra TC372 72" Flexible Cable Kit with 3" Valve.

Ours did the same thing yours did at first, so I took it apart and there was a piece of toilet paper that was preventing the valve from closing all the way. After I removed that, the valve worked okay, but became increasingly more difficult to open and close.

I went back and forth on whether or not to go with electric or the manual cable valve. After talking with a few RV Repair folks I decided to stick with the manual cable valve. This new one operates effortlessly. One of the things the RV people told me was to be sure to secure the cable so it cannot move around much when opening and closing valve.

The job itself is not that difficult and can be done by one person in an afternoon. I recommend (and this is experience speaking) to lower the front end of the rig down as low as you can so you don't get any liquid surprises when do disassemble the valve. When I put the new valve in, I didn't use the flexible coupler/pipe and had no difficulty.

The instructions that came with the new valve are thorough and complete. The only thing I would have done differently is to replace the bathroom gray tank valve too while I had the belly pan dropped because now it is starting to get more difficult to open and close.

Hope this helps.

Jack

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