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Old 07-01-2019, 05:30 PM   #1
scottkeen
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Washer Dryer for Montana Mountaineer 347THT

I came across a deal for an almost-new Splendide WD2100XC washer-dryer combo that was hard to pass up. The owner said he only used it twice and it's like new, and it was a very good price.

My 2011 Montana Mountaineer 347THT is prepped for a washer dryer combo. But here's my questions:

1. Where do I drill for the dryer vent? The back of the washer dryer faces to the front of the RV. I would imagine that the vent should be on the side of the RV.

2. Splendide sells a 90-degree elbow for the dryer vent. Am I gonna need this? Actually, if you know all the install parts I'm gonna need, I'd appreciate it. So far I figure I'm going to need the MK01 brackets, and the VID403A deluxe dryer vent kit. Not sure if I need the elbow or anything else. It's gonna be a tight fit.

3. Will I lose my closet door? I got a feeling that the washer dryer is going to stick out and the closet door will have to come off.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:50 PM   #2
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I found an image of a 2012 Montana Mountaineer 347THT (mine is a 2011) with what looks like a Splendide WD2100XC washer dryer combo installed WITH the closet doors still attached, as long as there was no dimension changes made from 2011 to 2012.

So I guess it's do-able.

I wish I could see where they put the dryer vent.

I've attached (3) photos:
Photo of someone's 2012 347THT with the washer dryer installed
Photo of my 2011 347THT empty closet with washer dryer prep
Photo of the Splendide WD2100XC that I bought on craigslist (looks EXACTLY the same was the unit installed in the 2012 347THT photo)
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:13 PM   #3
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When we had a front Washer/dryer set up like that the vent was installed on the wall to the right side when you are facing the washer. The dealer did it so I'm not sure how they deternined where, but some rigs have a little sticker.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:31 PM   #4
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I would avoid 90 degree elbows. I wanted my vent hose as short and straight as possible. I measured direct route from back of machine to wall. Marked my spot, checked for studs, and then cut. My sticker was way off and would have necessitated a longer vent run with bends.
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Old 07-05-2019, 04:50 PM   #5
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If I have to vent out the dryer to the side of the RV, then a 90-degree elbow is unavoidable.

The laundry closet is at the front of the RV in the nose-cone area. The dryer vent on the back of the Splendide faces towards the front of the RV.

I test-fit the Splendide in the laundry closet and I have very little space until it touches the wall. Literally 1" is all I've got. So I'm thinking of a couple of ideas, I don't know if any of this would work.

Idea #1: Cut a channel in the back of the wood closet to recess the 90-degree elbow and dryer vent hose. Basically make a "pocket" for the elbow and the dryer vent hose to sit in. The laundry closet is wedge-shaped and gets wider toward the right side of the RV, so I may only need a short channel until it gets wide enough for the hose.

Idea #2: Run the dryer vent straight through the back of the closet wall into the nose-cone space, then curve it to the right side of the nose-cone and put the vent in the right side of the nose-cone (I don't really want to put the vent in the front of the nose-cone). I don't even know if there's any space at all inside the nose-cone to run a dryer vent hose.

Idea #3: I like this the least. Remove the closet doors and hinges permanently. Put in a plywood board to extend the floor outside of the closet by a couple more inches. The Splendide will sit on the plywood board and be hanging out the front of the closet by a couple of inches. This just sounds awful, almost as awful as putting a dryer vent in the nose-cone.

Please take a look at the attached floor-plan of my RV. I've circled the laundry closet. The laundry closet is wedge-shaped and is about 24" deep at the narrowest point and the Splendide is 22-5/8" deep.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:41 PM   #6
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Scott: we did a mass install of Splendides one summer in OR. The 3 in the front all used your #1 process.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:56 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by carl n susan View Post
Scott: we did a mass install of Splendides one summer in OR. The 3 in the front all used your #1 process.
Oh wow! Thanks Carl n Susan! Glad to know I wasn't totally off the rails with that idea.

So you cut a channel in the back panel of the closet? Did you use a 90-degree elbow or was there enough room to stuff the duct tubing back there without an elbow? Did you need any heat shielding?

I would totally love some photos if you have any, or even a scribbling on a napkin!
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:29 PM   #8
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Mine installed in the slide but it too used a 90 degree elbow. I am pretty sure the others did the same. It would take too much room to get the flex hose to bend without kinking.
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:19 PM   #9
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I have a 2014 Montana Mountaineer I placed it in the closet in the front of the nose of the trailer . The vent does go out the side make sure you put blue painters tape on the outside so you don’t get any chips. It does fit in the closet
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Old 07-10-2019, 03:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rsaf View Post
I have a 2014 Montana Mountaineer I placed it in the closet in the front of the nose of the trailer . The vent does go out the side make sure you put blue painters tape on the outside so you donít get any chips. It does fit in the closet
Thanks, it fits in my closet fine, but there is no room for the dryer vent duct hose behind the w/d. On the vent duct hose fitting side, there is literally 1" of space between the back of the w/d and the closet back wall.

What did you end up doing to get the duct hose to fit behind there?

Maybe your closet is deeper than mine. I think mine is only about 24" deep at the narrow end of the closet.

If you wouldn't mind, could you snap a photo of the inside of your w/d closet and the outside with the vent? Just to give me an idea about where the vent goes. I know to check for studs no matter what. Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2019, 06:47 PM   #11
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We have a 2010 Mountaineer 326RLT which has the same closet as yours. Our dealer installed a Splendide all-in-one in ours 2 years ago. Same issue as yours - no room behind washer for the vent hose. The machine comes with a 90 degree elbow which is 4 inch on one end to fit the hose and flatens out to about 2 inches thick at the bend. The factory label for where to cut the vent hole was on the right side of the cabinet (door side of RV) and about a foot above the floor and about a foot ahead of the right closet door. They used a 4 inch hole saw and cut from the inside out. There is room for the hose on the right side of the machine. But when they shoved the machine clear to the left, the door wouldn't shut. So they cut a 3 to 4 inch wide piece out of the wall behind the washer near it's left back corner from the floor to almost the top of the machine. It allows the left back corner of the machine to protrude into that cutout enough so the door will close. At the bottom of that groove they cut a round hole so the vent hose can go straight back from the machine into the nose. Then over on the bottom right of the cabinet they cut another round hole so the hose could be brought from the nose back into the washer cabinet just above the floor near the right wall. Then when they got near the cutout, they elbowed into the cutout. I installed a couple D rings in the floor near the front of the machine and 2 more D rings higher on the wall on the shelf brackets near the front of the machine. I attach a couple strap tie downs which X across the front of the machine preventing it from flying thru the doors. I also cut a 10 inch square access hole in the left wall so I could reach from the closet to behind the machine to service it. If you'd like pics I can get you some, but it will be Friday before I can get out to the RV.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:52 PM   #12
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They make a metal dryer vent fitting specifically designed to address this issue. We have one installed and it works great!


The fitting has a short round section that fits onto the dryer and the opposite side is mounted to the long edge of a rectangular box (sized to give same airflow area as the round portion) that is length adjustable (the box part is two pieces that slide inside each other). The opposite side of the rectangular box ( has a round discharge that can either fit to a hose OR directly to a vent. You can buy these at Home Depot (who will now get all my business) in several different lengths.


In essence this fitting gives you two 90 degree elbows and a flat box for tight spaces and will cure your problem without having to do ANY cutting on the front wall of the cabinet (although you will still have to cut the side wall for the actual vent to outside.


You will need the fitting I describe, a short length of dryer vent hose or a round duct elbow (the elbow can only be used by itself if your near perfect on location of the exterior wall or you will have to add a length of round duct), 4 clamps, the exterior vent fitting and high heat duct tape. Make sure to measure everything and use the duct tape over all the fittings (particularly the adjustable slide portion of the box section) to reduce the chance of lint escaping thru same.


You will end up with a professional/industrial grade all metal duct, that is inexpensive but assures you of years of trouble free service.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtlakejim View Post
They make a metal dryer vent fitting specifically designed to address this issue. We have one installed and it works great!


The fitting has a short round section that fits onto the dryer and the opposite side is mounted to the long edge of a rectangular box (sized to give same airflow area as the round portion) that is length adjustable (the box part is two pieces that slide inside each other). The opposite side of the rectangular box ( has a round discharge that can either fit to a hose OR directly to a vent. You can buy these at Home Depot (who will now get all my business) in several different lengths.


In essence this fitting gives you two 90 degree elbows and a flat box for tight spaces and will cure your problem without having to do ANY cutting on the front wall of the cabinet (although you will still have to cut the side wall for the actual vent to outside.


You will need the fitting I describe, a short length of dryer vent hose or a round duct elbow (the elbow can only be used by itself if your near perfect on location of the exterior wall or you will have to add a length of round duct), 4 clamps, the exterior vent fitting and high heat duct tape. Make sure to measure everything and use the duct tape over all the fittings (particularly the adjustable slide portion of the box section) to reduce the chance of lint escaping thru same.


You will end up with a professional/industrial grade all metal duct, that is inexpensive but assures you of years of trouble free service.
I believe that slim adjustable duct box you describe is called a "periscope". Is the attached image what you are describing?

If so, it says it requires 3" behind the w/d, and I literally have only 1" behind the w/d. If what you used only takes 1" of space behind the w/d I would be really interested in a link to the item!

Thanks, Scott
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by whutfles View Post
We have a 2010 Mountaineer 326RLT which has the same closet as yours. Our dealer installed a Splendide all-in-one in ours 2 years ago. Same issue as yours - no room behind washer for the vent hose. The machine comes with a 90 degree elbow which is 4 inch on one end to fit the hose and flatens out to about 2 inches thick at the bend. The factory label for where to cut the vent hole was on the right side of the cabinet (door side of RV) and about a foot above the floor and about a foot ahead of the right closet door. They used a 4 inch hole saw and cut from the inside out. There is room for the hose on the right side of the machine. But when they shoved the machine clear to the left, the door wouldn't shut. So they cut a 3 to 4 inch wide piece out of the wall behind the washer near it's left back corner from the floor to almost the top of the machine. It allows the left back corner of the machine to protrude into that cutout enough so the door will close. At the bottom of that groove they cut a round hole so the vent hose can go straight back from the machine into the nose. Then over on the bottom right of the cabinet they cut another round hole so the hose could be brought from the nose back into the washer cabinet just above the floor near the right wall. Then when they got near the cutout, they elbowed into the cutout. I installed a couple D rings in the floor near the front of the machine and 2 more D rings higher on the wall on the shelf brackets near the front of the machine. I attach a couple strap tie downs which X across the front of the machine preventing it from flying thru the doors. I also cut a 10 inch square access hole in the left wall so I could reach from the closet to behind the machine to service it. If you'd like pics I can get you some, but it will be Friday before I can get out to the RV.
WOW, whutfles! This is really, really helpful! I'm glad to hear again that I wasn't off-base with thinking I would have to cut a slot behind the w/d to put the duct hose.

I was just hoping there would be enough space in the nose cone to run the hose, I wasn't sure what I'd find behind the closet wall when I cut into it. Did you find a stud back there? Is that maybe why you had the duct hose run inside the nose cone then back into the closet again?

Pics would be awesome whenever you get the chance!!! My next trip to the RV in storage to do this install will be in about 7-10 days. Thanks for this great description of your install.

BTW, Splendide (Westland) was very helpful over the phone. They are actually sending me the 90-degree low profile elbow in the mail for no charge because of my difficult install, but they asked if I wouldn't mind describing the process and taking photos so that other customers could be helped, which I'm glad to do.
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottkeen View Post
I believe that slim adjustable duct box you describe is called a "periscope". Is the attached image what you are describing?

If so, it says it requires 3" behind the w/d, and I literally have only 1" behind the w/d. If what you used only takes 1" of space behind the w/d I would be really interested in a link to the item!

Thanks, Scott
Yep that is it but I don't think it took 3" and it can actually touch the wall as it doesn't get hot enough to start a fire. It was just an option for you to look at that for us at least worked extremely well.

I will say the all in one Splendid has been a great unit.
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:20 PM   #16
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Well, your 2011 347THT is not the same model as my 2010 326RLT but I can include a pic of the front of my RV and you can compare cap profiles. There is about a foot of space behind my front wall in the W/D cabinet and the cap. Plenty of space to run the vent hose. The dealer used the foil vent hose that has the coil spring in it on mine.

The reason they ran the vent hose into the cap area was because when you push the washer against the left wall the washer was touching the back wall and preventing the cabinet doors from closing by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. There was no space behind the washer to do anything. And the reason we routed the vent hose from the cap area back into the washer cabinet along the right side was to get to the recommended point to duct the vent hose out the side. When the washer is pushed clear to the left, there is at least 6 inches of space between the washer and the right wall. And that is where we put the elbow - connected it to the hose and to the outside vent.

Additionally - This washer is not lite. Two guys carried it into my bedroom and the final lift into the cabinet was done by one man. You will have to get to the back of the washer to eventually work on or replace hoses. And we've already had to get back there for another reason. We used it for 3 months in Texas in early 2018, a little during the summer and then Jan 2019 back in Texas and my wife noticed it wasn't drying like it should. Then it gave us an error code. I called Splendide and they said I either had an obstruction in the hose or there was a buildup of lint in the machine just before where the vent hose connects. He advised us to remove the vent hose from the machine, insert a water hose into the hose connection and run a vigorous amount of water into the machine and it would remove the lint. I had already built a table out of 3/8" plywood with removeable legs that I could sit in front of the cabinet to pull the macine out onto. Then thru the 10" access door in the closet I removed the vent hose and just used a large Dawn dishsoap empty bottle filled with water and squirted it into the vent opening. I emptied 3 or 4 bottles and the machine worked fine. So consider what you might be sitting your machine on if you have to do the same. It's next to impossible for one person to bring it out of the cabinet. I'll PM you about the pics.
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:30 PM   #17
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I just noticed in the pic of your cabinet that your plumbing for the washer is in the right wall. Mine is in the back wall in the cap. There was a sticker on my right wall that said "DRILL HERE FOR DRYER VENT". There is a sticker below your plumbing but I can't read what it says. Unless it says to drill here, I'd be carefull drilling under that plumbing as it may go straight down. Any Montana dealer should be able to find out for you where to drill on your model.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:35 PM   #18
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So one of the ideas I was thinking was to put the w/d on a sliding platform with full extension slide rails so I can access behind it and the plumbing supply lines and drain.

Here's a sketch up. The static load for the floor of where the w/d sits is 148 pounds and Splendide says the dynamic load is 280 pounds. So I would go with minimum 2x 140 pound load rated rails.

But as you'll see in my sketch up, the load is not so much on the rails, because they will be installed with the bottom edge right on the cabinet floor. Then when the platform is fully extended, the 1x4 strip of wood above the rails takes the load. There would be very little load on the screws that attach the rails to the walls.

This raises the w/d unit in the cabinet by about 2.5 inches. I think there's just about that much head gap clearance above the w/d.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:08 PM   #19
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I think I got the exhaust vent from either Lowes or Home Depot. It’s only like an inch and a half wide but it’s like the width of the hole and I has an extension that runs out past the dryer so I could hook up a regular vent hose to hook up to outside vent. I would send a picture but I don’t know how
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:13 PM   #20
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I think I got the exhaust vent from either Lowes or Home Depot. It’s only like an inch and a half wide but it’s like the width of the hole and I has an extension that runs out past the dryer so I could hook up a regular vent hose to hook up to outside vent. I would send a picture but I don’t know how
rsaf -- Any photos of your install would be helpful. I'll send you a private message with my email address.

You can attach photos to your forum message by clicking the "Manage Attachments" button. You can't do it with the Quick Reply, you have to first click "Go Advanced", then you can click "Manage Attachments".

I'll send you my email address in a private message. Thanks.
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