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Old 03-16-2022, 03:16 PM   #1
sunshine 1
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Electric Black Tank Valve

I am considering putting in an electric black tank valve. Is there anyone on this forum which have done that? Suggestions. Is it a good idea?
When I am closing my valve, the knob is not going in the whole way, like it did when was new. Sticking out 3/4 of an inch.
I am just afraid that the valve will malfunction eventually.
 
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Old 03-16-2022, 05:24 PM   #2
Daryles
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Mine did the same thing for about a year, then fixed itself. I'm guessing toilet paper got jammed into the knife edge slot. I did have a slow leak so I got a Valterra twist on gate valve.
No more surprises when I take the cap off
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Old 03-16-2022, 06:32 PM   #3
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Thanks, for your response, I also have that valterra twist on gate valve. What I am worried about, is that the black valve would not open. I am not very handy so I doubt that I could fix it. I am visiting a friend in a couple weeks he could put it in for me. I just don't know if those electric valves are good.
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Old 03-16-2022, 08:46 PM   #4
Mikendebbie
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The valve on my rear black tank does not close completely, most likely because it has some toilet paper jammed in the slot. It has been like that for 2 years. It leaks a cup or so of liquid while traveling. Fortunately my twist-on valtera valve stops it. I hook up my drain hose and open the twist on valve...no problem. One of these days i will fix or replace the malfunctioning valve...someday...but i am in no hurry.
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Old 03-17-2022, 04:41 AM   #5
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Mike, if it is a piece of paper or debris blocking the valve, an easy way to fix is to back flush the line from outside. I use a Flush King valve on our sewer end for exactly this purpose. You can close off the outgoing sewer line and push water from outside into the pipe and tank. Working from both sides tends to help keep things cleaner.
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Old 03-17-2022, 07:46 AM   #6
Cat320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshine 1 View Post
....I am considering putting in an electric black tank valve. Is there anyone on this forum which have done that? Suggestions. Is it a good idea?...
JMHO, but I would never do that. Just something else to break and imagine the problems then.
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Old 03-17-2022, 07:52 AM   #7
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I've considered doing that but I would only use one that has a means to operate it manually as well.
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Old 03-17-2022, 08:52 AM   #8
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A faulty electric valve wouldn’t be any harder to fix than a faulty cable operated one. Both are going to require either dropping or cutting the coroplast to gain access. That being said, if you replace the junk factory valve that uses the stranded cable with a Valtera solid cable cable the only advantage an electric valve would offer is marginally less effort to operate. They will both have the same problem with paper getting stuck in the groove.
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Old 03-17-2022, 12:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcNeal View Post
Mike, if it is a piece of paper or debris blocking the valve, an easy way to fix is to back flush the line from outside. I use a Flush King valve on our sewer end for exactly this purpose. You can close off the outgoing sewer line and push water from outside into the pipe and tank. Working from both sides tends to help keep things cleaner.
When it first happened - I tried to back-flush over and over several times. I even stuck my power washer up in there a bit from the outside and tried to blast as best I could + stuck my twizzle stick down thru the potti - all to no avail. That is when I bought the valtera twist-on, and just decided to live with it unitl some time in the future when perhaps another task requires me to remove the coroplast bottom, and I will clean it or replace the valve.
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Old 03-19-2022, 10:46 AM   #10
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Thanks for the input, I will probably just put in a valtera solid cable valve.
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Old 03-19-2022, 10:52 AM   #11
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How long cable do I need for the valtera 3" valve?
I have a 2019 3120 model.
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Old 03-20-2022, 07:15 AM   #12
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One thing you may want to consider. Depending on where and how your valve is positioned on the sewer drain line, you may be able to install a valve that operates via a solid metal rod. On ours we drilled a small hole through the frame so the rod has a straight path from the valve to the handle located near the sewer drain outlet. There is no simpler or reliable way to valve these tanks. Any decent rv store has the parts to do this.
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:55 AM   #13
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Just so you know, the Bristol valve that comes standard is a braided cable inside a sheath. Eventually, the valve will stick. Many of us have replaced the stock valve with a Valterra valve. This is a solid wire inside of a sheath and is not prone to sticking and issues like the Bristol. In fact, after installing one on our last Montana, we had the dealer install them on the black and gray tanks on our new 3230CK. This is a link to the valve we installed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-21-2022, 07:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshine 1 View Post
How long cable do I need for the valtera 3" valve?
I have a 2019 3120 model.
It’s best to measure the one you have first, as different models vary. Keep in mind that a lot of Montana’s have the black and grey tanks running longitudinal and parallel to each other with the valve pulls facing each other. This design requires one of the cables to make a 180* bend. You want that bend to be as smooth as possible. When I changed mine out I went with the next length up from stock. That allowed the radius to be much larger than original. No problems since😀
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Old 03-21-2022, 10:14 AM   #15
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Following this thread closely. After extolling the virtues of never worrying about the type of TP to use, and never having a drainage issue, my valve started sticking and will not close completely. After much cussing and trying a backflow valve (which did nothing), I got a Swivelstick and cleared it enough to mostly drain. I got the stick through the tank and past the valve, and a couple of wipes came out with the stick. I suspect there's a wipe in the valve groove making it stick. So, I still don't think TP makes a difference, and I'm still trying to get the wipe culprit to fess up, and I'm looking into an electric valve, too. I see there's a couple of videos on YouTube to peruse.
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Old 03-22-2022, 07:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyg View Post
Following this thread closely. After extolling the virtues of never worrying about the type of TP to use, and never having a drainage issue, my valve started sticking and will not close completely. After much cussing and trying a backflow valve (which did nothing), I got a Swivelstick and cleared it enough to mostly drain. I got the stick through the tank and past the valve, and a couple of wipes came out with the stick. I suspect there's a wipe in the valve groove making it stick. So, I still don't think TP makes a difference, and I'm still trying to get the wipe culprit to fess up, and I'm looking into an electric valve, too. I see there's a couple of videos on YouTube to peruse.
If you are trying to eliminate the stuck paper issue than I don’t think that an electric valve will help. An electric valve works just like your stock blade valve, it just uses a solenoid to open and close it. You can get something caught in the groove just as easily with either.
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Old 03-22-2022, 07:46 AM   #17
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Oh yes, I know that electric valves can get stuck, too. I figured as long as I have to go in there, I may as well replace the valve with an electric one. I have always found the existing handle at a bad angle for my old arms.
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Old 03-22-2022, 09:43 AM   #18
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I put in the valterra a few years ago. I could pull it out with 1 finger. After these years it takes 2 fingers now!!! So I don't think the angle or access to it should be any problem with you using one.
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Old 03-22-2022, 02:32 PM   #19
sunshine 1
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Montana Man, could you give me some more info how to attach that solid rod to the the valtera black tank valve.
Do you have any pictures of it?
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Old 03-22-2022, 02:37 PM   #20
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Ron,
thank you for the info about the valtera valve. I didn't know that the stock valve had a braided cable and the name on the valve was Bristol.
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