Pull test after hook-up..... - Montana Owners Club

KTManiac · 10-30-2008, 09:38 AM

I have a question regarding doing a pull test after you hook the fiver up.

It seems to me that with the landing gear slightly off of the ground is a smart move, so as to not tweak them if the 5er moves forward some with a successful lock-in.

Or, if the hitch does uncouple, it won't have too far to drop to the ground (maybe a 1/4" or so).

My question is, in the scenario of a bad lock-in and subsequent uncoupling, won't the trucks suspension unweight, then rebound the bed rails up into the trailer, and cause some damage anyway?

I have read about something called a Blue Ox BedSaver system. They make one for the B&W Companion hitch, but I am not so sure if I would want to drill 4 holes in the two stanchions where it mounts up. It seems to me that it would weaken them substantially.

They also make a Pin Lock system,

but I can't seem to find anything for an application guide to see if it is compatible with a B&W Companion hitch. Anyone?

Wiarton William · 10-30-2008, 10:25 AM

I would think that no matter what damage would occur on the pull test it would be far less than what would occur if the TV drove right out from under the RV either at the start or somehere down the highway..

**Rondo** · 10-30-2008, 10:26 AM

KT-- I've got the Blue Ox bed guard and would not be without it! I have a Reese 16K and the bedguard fit right on the hitch without drilling anything! Since I live in Nebraska and they are made here, I just went up to the town they are made in and picked mine up there! Didn't save any money but had it and it does work. I've checked it twice and once by accident! You can call Blue Ox and ask them if they have one that will fit!

exav8tr · 10-30-2008, 10:52 AM

KT, If your truck rebounds that high after unloading, you have the wrong truck. My truck only squats about an inch or two when loaded with trailer. I vote for the Blue Ox Bed Saver and wish they made one for my TrailerSaver hitch....

ols1932 · 10-30-2008, 12:01 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by exav8tr

KT, If your truck rebounds that high after unloading, you have the wrong truck. My truck only squats about an inch or two when loaded with trailer. I vote for the Blue Ox Bed Saver and wish they made one for my TrailerSaver hitch....

My discussions with Aaron Grayhek of Hensley Mfg. revealed that they felt that the Trailer Saver hitch didn't lend itself to having a Bed Saver. On top of that, Aaron said (and I fully understand) the Trailer Saver hitch head has a positive lock when connected to the king pin. He also mentioned that we should always take a peek at the jaws to make sure they are closed plus locking the release handle.

Orv

kdeiss · 10-30-2008, 12:25 PM

I have been towing 5th wheels for 14 years. I paint the jaws on the hitch white so easy to see that they are closed.Make sure the latch on the pull handly is engaged and put on pad lock. Again check if jaws are closed. I see no need for pull test or bed saver. Just my opinion

swanny · 10-30-2008, 01:52 PM

i agree with kdeiss. i have a pull-rite. what i did was close the hitch without the pin in the hitch. i then made sure the jaws were fully closed and painted a vertical line in the center of the jaw. now i can check by looking at the line. if it's in the middle it's closed. i also lock the handle.

up2nogood · 10-30-2008, 03:16 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by swanny

i agree with kdeiss. i have a pull-rite. what i did was close the hitch without the pin in the hitch. i then made sure the jaws were fully closed and painted a vertical line in the center of the jaw. now i can check by looking at the line. if it's in the middle it's closed. i also lock the handle.

I agree close the handle put in the pin or lock, you are hooked. There are other procedures , but if the handle is in and the pin or lock is thru the hole the jaw is CLOSED

Mac · 10-30-2008, 04:31 PM

I have my jaws painted and check them every time but I still own a bed saver and wouldn't be without it.

mac

Fire5er · 10-31-2008, 06:17 AM

The first year of towing I did the pull test as you described raising the landing gear 1/4" and the wheels chocked. But with the hitch I have when it locks in it is hitched, I do not have a jaw type hitch. The only way it would not be hitch is if it was high hitched on the pin. I check the pin location on the hitch each time.

If I understand your post you do not have your 5er yet and this is just speculation. But if you do have your rig and you are having rebound issues then I agree with Phil that if your truck rebounds more than 4" to 5" then you may not have enough truck for the pin weight you have. Our truck only squats about 4" when we lower the 3400RL on the hitch.

Good luck,
Karl

TLightning · 10-31-2008, 08:55 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by kdeiss

I have been towing 5th wheels for 14 years. I paint the jaws on the hitch white so easy to see that they are closed.Make sure the latch on the pull handly is engaged and put on pad lock. Again check if jaws are closed. I see no need for pull test or bed saver. Just my opinion

I have the sliding bar rather than the jaws...when the pin assembly is on the top of the hitch and the bar is closed and aft of the pin...it cannot be anything but locked. I don't do a test pull.

KTManiac · 10-31-2008, 09:39 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Fire5er
.....If I understand your post you do not have your 5er yet and this is just speculation. But if you do have your rig and you are having rebound issues then I agree with Phil that if your truck rebounds more than 4" to 5" then you may not have enough truck for the pin weight you have. Our truck only squats about 4" when we lower the 3400RL on the hitch.

Good luck,
Karl

That is correct, I do not have the 5er as of yet. Hopefully, the truck will only squat 4" max, it is a 1-ton Dodge SRW. If it goes farther than that, I suppose I will have to air-bag the rear axle.

I'm just trying to make sure that I don't have any rude surprises, and stay ahead of the curve, so to speak.

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Fire5er
The first year of towing I did the pull test as you described raising the landing gear 1/4" and the wheels chocked. But with the hitch I have when it locks in it is hitched, I do not have a jaw type hitch. The only way it would not be hitch is if it was high hitched on the pin. I check the pin location on the hitch each time.

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by TLightning
I have the sliding bar rather than the jaws...when the pin assembly is on the top of the hitch and the bar is closed and aft of the pin...it cannot be anything but locked. I don't do a test pull.

Interesting! What brand of hitches are this type, and can they be had in a clean-bed configuration?

Another way of hitching that I have looked at would be to use a goose neck pin box adapter, but the quasi-engineer in me tells me that this style of hitching would put way too much stress on the pin box frame.

exav8tr · 10-31-2008, 12:26 PM

KT, I have heard that Keystone really frowns on a Gooseneck type hitch pin. Others may have more technical information on this..If I needed a "clean bed" I would probably look at the B&W Companion hitch......

TLightning · 10-31-2008, 12:36 PM

My hitch is a 16k Husky made by RBW. It comes out in two parts so it is easy to handle...leaves only the rails in the bed.

mopar1 · 10-31-2008, 04:01 PM

I have a 15k Reese pro series. It has a bar that slides behind the hitch pin and then the handle has a lock that holds it in there and prevents somebody from messing with it. I can't see any way it could slide out of the hitch and fall off unless I had the camper too high while hooking up. But I leave the camper a little low and make the truck work to get under there. Then that bar snaps in and I lock it. But that hitch has those pesky rails on the bottom of the bed.

Fire5er · 10-31-2008, 04:20 PM

I have a Hijacker hitch with under bed mounts. When I pull it out I have four small holes that have plastic plugs.
I have the 24-UMS-21, 21k Underbox Fifth Wheel Hitch
• Installs UNDER the truck bed leaving box free of bedrails
• Double Pivot
• Jaw Bolt adjustment for trailer kingpin
• Capacity: GVW 21,000 lbs
• 4 x 1” height adjustments

Delaine and Lindy · 11-01-2008, 02:40 PM

We are using the B&W turnover ball with the Companion 5th wheel hitch. Its not a air ride hitch, we also have had the Trailer Saver air ride hitch, which in IMHO is the best air hitch on the market. However for the price the B&W is the best steel hitch I have owned. Just went and hooked up for our trip South just can't get over how easy hooking and unhooking the B&W is smooth as silk. And its almost impossible to drop you 5th wheel. If you have the safety pin in you are hook without question. You can check very easy just take a second to see the jaws wrapped around the King pin. The safest hitch I have owned, the jaws are the same of the Class 8 Trucks (18 wheelers). And when removed in about 15 minutes by one person and the Truck bed is clean no holes to cover and there is only one 4" hole in the Truck bed unless you want the safety chain connectors which is not required to pull a 5th wheel. You also have the capbility to pull a Gooseneck trailer also. I recomend the B&W. Good Luck with your choice. GBY...

P.S. You really don't have to do a pull test with the B&W, however having been around and driven many 18 wheelers, a professional Truck driver will always do a pull test or a bump.

clutch · 11-01-2008, 05:26 PM

We have a 16k Husky hitch and I give it the shake test every time. I can see that it is hooked up but it makes me feel better. After seeing a 5er drop here in the park last year Sallie always wants it tested. When Sallie is happy I am happy.

jjackflash · 11-01-2008, 07:56 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Delaine and Lindy

We are using the B&W turnover ball with the Companion 5th wheel hitch. Its not a air ride hitch, we also have had the Trailer Saver air ride hitch, which in IMHO is the best air hitch on the market. However for the price the B&W is the best steel hitch I have owned. Just went and hooked up for our trip South just can't get over how easy hooking and unhooking the B&W is smooth as silk. And its almost impossible to drop you 5th wheel. If you have the safety pin in you are hook without question. You can check very easy just take a second to see the jaws wrapped around the King pin. The safest hitch I have owned, the jaws are the same of the Class 8 Trucks (18 wheelers). And when removed in about 15 minutes by one person and the Truck bed is clean no holes to cover and there is only one 4" hole in the Truck bed unless you want the safety chain connectors which is not required to pull a 5th wheel. You also have the capbility to pull a Gooseneck trailer also. I recomend the B&W. Good Luck with your choice. GBY...

P.S. You really don't have to do a pull test with the B&W, however having been around and driven many 18 wheelers, a professional Truck driver will always do a pull test or a bump.

Ditto on the pull test!
Jack

mtheo · 11-02-2008, 04:48 AM

I have a freind with a slider hitch, the one with the "C" shape locking bar, he dropped his SOB twice after making a turn coming out of a driveway. The first time he thought it was operateor error. The secound time he had been on the road for over 350 miles and pulled out of a driveway back on the highway and down went his trailer.
After the the shop check it out it was determined that the pin on the Trailair pin box had bent which in turn some how turned the hitch jaw and open the hitch.
You might guess,yes he now has a new hitch and pin box, Think he went to a 5th air borne and the hitch manufacture gave him a new and up grade hitch.
And NO his hitch was not over loaded. The trailer is the same as my 3000RK and can't wieght any more.

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