Feedback re: Banks Techni-Cooler - Montana Owners Club

Sweetfire · 11-20-2005, 07:37 AM

I'm driving a 2005, Ford F350 Super Duty, King Ranch, 6.0 liter turbo-diesel, towing a 2005 3295RK with a 20K Reese hitch. Last week I had a 4in. exhaust installed. I've deceided to chip the engine only as a last resort. I would like some feed back from anyone in the group on the Banks Techni-Cooler system, the AFE Magnum Force Stage Two Filter Kit or any other aftermarket intake systems they endorse. My next upgrade, hopefully this week, will be a Pyrometer. Is a second boost guage a good idea or is the OEM dashboard gauge good enough? Lastly can anyone suggest any other instrumentation that they have found useful?

Montana Sky · 11-20-2005, 11:24 AM

Sweetfire,
Welcome to the MOC, feel free to jump right in with all your thoughts, questions and ideas.
Now I am not a Ford owner but was wondering why you really feel you need to modify your Powerstroke? From what I have read on the 6.0L and those who are using them on this forum it just does not seem like you would need to or want to spend all the extra money on this stuff. I run the Duramax and other than a Pyrometer, boost gauge and a custom flow tailgate the truck is stock and just pulls the heck out of my 3400RL. There is also a very large debate going on currently as to all the modifications to a motor will void your factory warranty. Might I suggest towing your coach with your new exhaust and see what you think, before modifying anything else. You might be amazed at how the truck does with the new exhaust. Again just my opinion. Best of luck with your new truck and coach. Welcome aboard!

Sweetfire · 11-20-2005, 12:10 PM

MontanaSky, I have pulled the Montana since I upgraded the exhaust and you are right, it is a strong puller. I was thinking about the Techni-Cooler for the same reason I upgraded the exhaust; lower EGT's. That is also why I want a Pyrometer, so I'll know for sure what's going on. I think that having an engine that pulls so strong tempts me to push too hard at times (I-got-to-get-there-itis). If the Banks intercooler will help lower EGT's then I want to consider it. As for warranty issues, my Ford dealer assures me that performance upgrades in and of themselves won't void a warranty unless they directly cause a failure of an OEM part or system. That's why I don't want to chip the engine. The Bank's Techni-Cooler was just a thought, if there are MOC members out there that had some experiance with it I was interested in their thoughts.

sreigle · 11-21-2005, 12:53 PM

I don't see a need for more power on mine but sometimes folks just want more.

The boost gauge on the dash is a good one. But you have to look at it occasionally. Mine shows a redline at around 35 psi (thereabouts..would have to go look for exact number) but I've never seen the boost go above 28.

On the pillar I have a three-pod gauge set. Mine has pyrometer, trans temp, and water temp. The dash also has boost, trans temp, and water temp, but the Ford temp gauges sit on the 'normal' setting over a fairly wide range of temperatures. I added the gauges because I want to know the temperature is climbing before the point the dash gauges begin to climb.

Originally the dash water temp gauge would climb to about 3/4 of the way to the hot point. I asked Ford about this and they told me about a tech bulletin on this. They replaced the instrument cluster and now the most I've seen the needle move off it's normal position is about 3 thin needle widths, then the fan comes on and the temp drops back to it's normal position.

Sweetfire · 11-21-2005, 01:21 PM

Thanks for the input. The mods I was talking about.ie. the exhaust and intercooler don't increase power as much as they decrease EGT. The truck does fine as far as power is concerned I was just thinking about turbo temps and possibly MPG. One of the local diesel shops did tell me they have a Banks Techni-Cooler in the area that keeps losing one of the turbo hose clamps. They were not impressed with the Banks unit. They will install an analog pyrometer for about $150.00, I'm going to check it out.

pud2 · 11-28-2005, 12:33 PM

Sweetfire i have the banks stinger plus on my truck and am very impressed with it. But to the contary by adding the bigger exhaust you did gain a little hp. and if you add the tech. cooler you will also because any time you are moving more air you are improving and when you move cooler air it is even better and that is what the tech. cooler does is that it cooles the intake air and makes it more dense and this mixes better with fuel. I would not recommend the air filter you are talking about as i think it is in the open air under hood i think? The reason for this is it is sucking in all that warm air from engine and that's not good. Use a k&n in your air box. Will defeat purpose with other. You might want to try the six gun tuner and you will get the temp readings you looking for plus xtra hp. Good luck. That's my 2 cents

Sweetfire · 11-28-2005, 01:59 PM

Thanks Darrell,

I'm not sure if the AFE Stage 2 vents from in the engine compartment or not. I'll have to check. I agree with you that hot engine compartment air should be avoided. Pyrometer gets installed late this week.

Dennis

ols1932 · 11-28-2005, 03:28 PM

As you can see by my signature, I have the Banks Power Pack which includes the intercooler. For my model Ford, I wouldn't be without it. My Power Stroke is fine but the Power Pack gave me a lot more power and zip.

Banks has letters from the major automobile manufacturers that state that installing any of the Banks systems on your vehicle DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

Dave e Victoria · 11-28-2005, 04:48 PM

Darrell, I noticed you recommended using the K&N filter. I'm not sure about the effect on fords but there is a bulletin out on the GM Duramax suggesting there has been oxygen sensor fouling due to the oil used to regenerate the K&N. While this was probably caused by someone getting carried away with the oil, it is something to be concerned with. The other report I read recently compared airflow through a stock GM filter to the K&N and the stock filter performed better.

I don't mean to bad mouth K&N. I have one on my airplane where it has performed admirably for 500 hours sofar.

Bob Pasternak · 11-28-2005, 05:49 PM

Darrell: From your post, it sounds like you're not entirely familiar with diesel operation. Air and fuel do not mix; Fuel is injected into the combustion chamber shortly before TDC and heat from the air compression ignites the fuel. Having a less restricted air intake is only effective up to the point where the waste gate opens. The aftercooler in front of your radiator helps by cooling the air that is blown into the engine thereby allowing more in.

pud2 · 11-29-2005, 10:59 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Bob Pasternak

Darrell: From your post, it sounds like you're not entirely familiar with diesel operation. Air and fuel do not mix; Fuel is injected into the combustion chamber shortly before TDC and heat from the air compression ignites the fuel. Having a less restricted air intake is only effective up to the point where the waste gate opens. The aftercooler in front of your radiator helps by cooling the air that is blown into the engine thereby allowing more in.

You have to Have air for Any fuel to Burn. Thats just the law of phisics. Sorrow about spelling. But i have dne a lot of research on this and i have always been taught and told that if you remove the catalist for fuel which is oxygen then there is no cumbustion.

Bob Pasternak · 11-29-2005, 02:31 PM

Darrell: I think you missed the gist of my post. On a diesel engine, only air is induced into the cylinder on the intake stroke as opposed to air AND fuel on a gas engine. The air/fuel ratio remains pretty much the same on a gas engine whether it is turning 1000 or 3000 rpm. On a diesel the amount of air blown into the cylinder stays pretty much the same regardless of rpm. It's the amount of fuel injected at a few degrees BTDC that determines engine speed. A spark plug fires the gas/air mixture in a gas engine operating at a 9.5 or 10:1 compression ratio. It is heat from compression at 17.5:1 on my Cummins.

pud2 · 11-30-2005, 12:18 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Dave e Victoria

Darrell, I noticed you recommended using the K&N filter. I'm not sure about the effect on fords but there is a bulletin out on the GM Duramax suggesting there has been oxygen sensor fouling due to the oil used to regenerate the K&N. While this was probably caused by someone getting carried away with the oil, it is something to be concerned with. The other report I read recently compared airflow through a stock GM filter to the K&N and the stock filter performed better.

I don't mean to bad mouth K&N. I have one on my airplane where it has performed admirably for 500 hours sofar.

Yeah people have a tindanceny to over oil.

pud2 · 11-30-2005, 12:21 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Bob Pasternak

Darrell: I think you missed the gist of my post. On a diesel engine, only air is induced into the cylinder on the intake stroke as opposed to air AND fuel on a gas engine. The air/fuel ratio remains pretty much the same on a gas engine whether it is turning 1000 or 3000 rpm. On a diesel the amount of air blown into the cylinder stays pretty much the same regardless of rpm. It's the amount of fuel injected at a few degrees BTDC that determines engine speed. A spark plug fires the gas/air mixture in a gas engine operating at a 9.5 or 10:1 compression ratio. It is heat from compression at 17.5:1 on my Cummins.

that's what i mean that the cooler air you have the help cumbustion the better it burns because of the density of it.

sreigle · 12-01-2005, 02:02 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Dave e Victoria

Darrell, I noticed you recommended using the K&N filter. I'm not sure about the effect on fords but there is a bulletin out on the GM Duramax suggesting there has been oxygen sensor fouling due to the oil used to regenerate the K&N. While this was probably caused by someone getting carried away with the oil, it is something to be concerned with. The other report I read recently compared airflow through a stock GM filter to the K&N and the stock filter performed better.

I don't mean to bad mouth K&N. I have one on my airplane where it has performed admirably for 500 hours sofar.

The figures I saw showed similar results for the Ford Motorcraft filter that comes with the Ford 6.0 PSD. Last I saw, Ford has not approved use of any other air filter for the 6.0, last I saw (month or two ago). They have now approved additional brands of oil filters but not air filters. Use of non-approved filters voids the warranty if damage is related.

MuddyPaws · 12-07-2005, 03:02 AM

The AFE does not suck in hot air. It uses the bottom of the stock airbox which is ducted to just behind the grill.

Wow, is that intercooler pricey!

Go to www.thedieselstop.com and search out the 'ZooDad' mod. It's free, only takes about an hour, and will probably drop your EGT 100-150 deg.

If you're looking for better towing performance by far the cheapest and most effective way to go is with a programmer rather than a chip. Some of them even contain code readers, comes in handy.

Sweetfire · 12-08-2005, 04:34 PM

Muddypaws,

I couldn't find the "ZooDad".

MuddyPaws · 12-10-2005, 07:08 AM

I know ZooDad is there. Expand the search to include posts within the last two years. I found hundreds of references.

The default search timeframe is 1 week.

MuddyPaws · 12-10-2005, 07:14 AM

Oh, look in the 6.0 or 7.3 Upgrades And Aftermarket forums

Sweetfire · 12-11-2005, 04:33 AM

MP,
Thanks, I found it. So it seems the pro/con of the Zoodad is; will you or will you not get a wet air filter when it rains.

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