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Old 02-25-2021, 12:59 PM   #1
lundwc16
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Door Plunger Light Switch

Just ordered my 3rd replacement plunger type light switch from Trekwood, that turns on the interior lights when the door is opened. Does anyone have a similar type switch that lasts more than a few years, that can be used as a replacement. I have taken the old switch apart, with no luck trying to fix it.
Thanks: John
 
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:42 PM   #2
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After the first failure, on our 2010, I used a dry silicone lube on the replacement and never had another issue until we traded the rig 5 years later.
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Old 02-25-2021, 03:49 PM   #3
jhudson
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Never had a failure of my door switch. Have always used a dry lubricant from 2013 and is still working perfectly.
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Old 02-25-2021, 08:24 PM   #4
rohrmann
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Same here with our 2012, dry lube and the original switch. Seems to be one of the very reliable parts on this rig.
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:03 AM   #5
1retired06
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Here as well. Never any issues
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:25 AM   #6
MARK A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lundwc16 View Post
Just ordered my 3rd replacement plunger type light switch from Trekwood, that turns on the interior lights when the door is opened. Does anyone have a similar type switch that lasts more than a few years, that can be used as a replacement. I have taken the old switch apart, with no luck trying to fix it.
Thanks: John
Very interesting that this comes up today. After using our 3610 a couple weeks ago, I washed the trailer and put it in the shed. Yesterday I was taking the bedding out to the trailer and the lights didn't come on.
Long story short, the door switch had failed. I have always HATED that damn switch anyway, if it's pouring rain, you unlock the door, run inside, close the door and you're plunged into darkness left to feel your way to the control center in the dark, or leave the door open and let it rain inside.

So I disconnected the switch, cut a hole for a rocker switch up on the wall so I simply reach up and turn on the lights.



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Old 02-27-2021, 06:46 AM   #7
lundwc16
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Thanks for all the response, I'll try the dry lube. Took the last failed switch apart because I should be able to fix it, not so easy. I know it's not cardboard, but their is a small piece of, what looks like waxed cardboard, located in the spring that holds a small contact piece of metal, it's that piece of cardboard like material that dries out & falls apart. I'll try the dry lube, if this switch fails, I do like the rocker switch idea.
John
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:10 AM   #8
fatcatzzz
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Where is this switch located?? Have never had anything like this.
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:12 AM   #9
rohrmann
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It’s the plunger switch on the hinge side of the entry door that is in the door jam, and when opening and closing the door, turns on and off the ceiling lights close to the door.
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Old 02-27-2021, 12:28 PM   #10
fatcatzzz
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Nope no switch in the door jam! Guess Keystone figured I did not need one. Well guess you can't miss what you never had.
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Old 02-27-2021, 05:30 PM   #11
Ram Montana High Country
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My MHC doesn't have them fancy things - just those dang saw ya lights that kick on when a hot breeze blows
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:22 PM   #12
mhs4771
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I think Keystone quit adding that feature. We had it on our 2010, but don't know when they quit. It was a neat feature, but you better hit the wall switch before closing the door or you'ld be in the dark.
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Old 02-28-2021, 09:26 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
I think Keystone quit adding that feature. We had it on our 2010, but don't know when they quit. It was a neat feature, but you better hit the wall switch before closing the door or you'ld be in the dark.
My 2016 has one



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Old 03-03-2021, 03:18 PM   #14
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These switches have two failure modes in my experience. The first mode is that it is a 5 amp switch and the lights in my rig that it controls drew a total of 7 amps. Thus an overheating failure occurred twice. I replaced all those pancake lights with LED fixtures and dropped the current down to less than 1 amp and then I replaced the switch again. Enter failure mode two. The door hinge that contacts the switch plunger hits it at an angle. This causes the plunger to be forced against the edge of the hole it passes through on the switch bracket. Wear over a period of time results in the plunger surface becoming rough, such that it will not slide in and out easily. This is a mechanical failure. I have tried dry lube and lithium grease with no success. I am getting ready to install my 4th switch. When I do, I plan to install a small shim under the switch flange on the inside of the door frame. This will tip the switch in the direction of the angle that the door hinge has when it comes in contact with the plunger.
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Old 03-03-2021, 07:02 PM   #15
Rjlg
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We had it on our 2013 , 3100rl and it almost started a fire. Smelled hot plastic for a couple of days before I figured out it was that switch shorting out. Didn't like it anyway. Cut it out covered the wires and didn't have bugs coming in when we opened the door at night. Our new 3121 doesn't have it thankfully.
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Old 03-04-2021, 10:27 AM   #16
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Do you spray the lube were the plunger goes in and out? Thanks
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Old 03-04-2021, 03:54 PM   #17
rohrmann
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Do you spray the lube were the plunger goes in and out? Thanks
Yes, only on the plunger, and every few months seems to work for us, and we are full timers, so the door gets a lot of use daily.
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Old 03-10-2021, 08:12 AM   #18
DebNJim B
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Sounds like a nice feature to have but alas my newer model doesn't have it.
I bought one of these lights on Amazon and mounted it right over the entry door. It's motion activated and stays on for about 15 seconds. Added bonus on my 3731FL it's also right across from the bathroom so it offers light when making one of those middle of the night bathroom runs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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