Replacing Level Up/Slides Fuses

[bullroc3]

I began having a problem with the level up system on the last trip out last year. When retracting the legs via manual mode, they would stop and then I would have to release the button and start again. I had the battery checked and it is fine. If the unit is still on shore power, it works fine. I have read all the posts on the slides starting and stopping but nothing about the level up legs. I am guessing it is the auto reset fuse (50 amp) that needs to be replaced with an 80 amp one. Above is the picture of the fuses. Do I need to replace both of them or one or the other? Seems most posts on this subject have only one fuse.

The fuse on the right feeds the one on the left. The wire leaving the top is the feed to the hydraulic pump. The bottom runs to inside the coach.

Any help would be appreciated.

[pineranch]

Just had level up installed and he tied in to my 80 amp. He told me if I didn't have one they would have installed one.
Mike

[bncinwv]

I am having the same problem and would like to also add that if someone can provide a vendor and part number for the 80 amp auto-reset, posting the information would be appreciated!
Bingo

[bullroc3]

Bingo - I found the part but hopefully someone will tell us which one to replace or both.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bs...FShn7Aod-h8AnA

[bncinwv]

Or these? They are a little less expensive:

Klixon

I think I am just going to go ahead and do both.

Bingo

[BB_TX]

Just to be clear, they are auto reset circuit breakers, not fuses. And one does not feed the other. The wire from the battery goes to one and then jumpers to the other, so that they are actually functionally independent of each other.

Here is what the little cheap things look like after they have burned the contacts.

[jcurtis934]

If you want a better, marine grade thermal breaker...check out Blue Sea Systems 285 series breakers. Available from 25-150 amp. With a quality breaker, the auto reset function is not really desired...rather a easily seen trip indicator and reset are. And they are $55 at West Marine stores or website. John

[bncinwv]

I do not think I would prefer a manual reset breaker for these functions, particularly since the breaker is located at the rear of the battery compartment. From the previous years of postings regarding this upgrade (yes, it has been discussed for years!), it is a one-time fix, that seems to eliminate the reoccurrences of the tripping episodes. That is what I prefer and like, a fix that prevents the occurence.
Bingo

[BB_TX]

I agree Bingo. Since power is only applied when you are activating the switch, an auto reset breaker is fine. If it were something where power were continuous and would cause the breaker to continously trip and reset, then a manual reset would make more sense.

[bullroc3]

quote:Originally posted by BB_TX

Just to be clear, they are auto reset circuit breakers, not fuses. And one does not feed the other. The wire from the battery goes to one and then jumpers to the other, so that they are actually functionally independent of each other.

Here is what the little cheap things look like after they have burned the contacts.

Thank you for that clarification - circuit breakers not fuses - and the fact that they are functionally independent of one another. My lesson learned for today!!!

[jlb27537]

You can do either the single 80A breaker or just buy 2x40A breakers and parallel them.

http://www.grainger.com/search?searc...gestConfigId=6

OR

http://www.grainger.com/product/BUSS...AS01?$smthumb$

The breaker on the left (curb side) is the one that feeds the pump. That is the one to change to a higher amp rated breaker. I think it is a 50amp, needs to go to 80amp.

I am having the same issue. Jacks stopping while retracting and restarting on their own. My display stays on, but I think the display is being feed off the street side breaker.

I'll deal with it when I get home in a couple of weeks from the RGV.

Jim

[rohrmann]

Find the cable feeding the hydraulic pump. The breaker that the cable is fed from is the breaker to replace. Regardless of where it is located, that is the breaker. If the battery feed attaches to the pump breaker first, it doesn't matter, as the battery feed just attaches to the battery side of the breaker and then the cable to the next breaker is also attached to the same connection. I replaced mine with a Buss 80 Amp Manual Reset Hi Amp Surface Mount Circuit Breaker. You will not have to worry about having to reset it once you have installed it. It has been about a year now, and it does not trip, so the hydraulic system works perfectly. I don't remember how much I paid for it, but here is a link for one at about $25. http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46923...-RESET-80-AMP/

[pineranch]

The one referenced above is what I have. Been working well for over 3 years.
Mike

[bncinwv]

I like that one since it is available in an autoreset model as well. The only thing I cannot figure out is when I take a couple of items off of the to-do mod list, a couple of items are always added? I strongly suspect that this phenomenon is somehow directly related to the MOC!!!
Bingo

[Pugtracker]

I had done this before in my 2002 montana did not have level up but it would trip when moving slides. It is happening now on our 2014 3850fl and lippert tech states that's it's a bat term issue and if you do not maintain 12.6 volts it will trip the design is protecting the motor. Would like to hear anyone's thoughts on this.

[Pugtracker]

I have no problem putting in a 80 amp but is it really the problem

[bncinwv]

As mentioned on the other thread, it fixed ours!
Bingo

[rohrmann]

We had no issue with the breaker tripping on ours originally, but as time went on, and especially when it was cold out, it started to trip, on and off when operating the jacks, never affected the slides. It finally got so bad that it started tripping when it was warm out, so obviously the contacts were getting worse. I thought about going with one of the colder rated fluids in the system, but, as it turns out, the breaker was the easier fix. When I finally did replace the breaker, I did find a couple slightly loose connections from the batteries to the pump and on the other circuit. It has not even once stopped since replacing the breaker with an 80 amp one.

[DQDick]

quote:Originally posted by Pugtracker

I have no problem putting in a 80 amp but is it really the problem

Keystone replaced ours with an 80 under warranty and no more problems for the last 4 years.

[Sundogette]

We replaced ours with the 80 amp breaker due to the same problems with the slide stall. The other big " ah ha" was the bad crimps (ie loose connections) on the line and load sides of the breaker. Double check all connections!