New to us 3000RK

[Jeff53]

Hello. New member here. We live in Winchester, VA and are looking forward to our first trip this month in our 2009 Montana. I've been looking it over. I have what I've read is a typical problem with the rear stabilizers not working. I plan on looking into that. I have a question about a T-handle that I found under the chassis in the galley area. I'm assuming this is the gray tank valve for the kitchen. I wasn't given much info from the previous owner. It seemed really stiff/hard to pull, so I didn't want to force it. Plus it's a bit wobbly. Also, when I check the levels in the tank, the Gray 2 doesn't register anything (even the E for empty doesn't light). Am I correct that this is a second gray dump valve and am I OK putting a little force on it to pull it? Any ideas as to why the tank light doesn't register? Thanks much, Jeff

[offroad71]

Yes, the T-handle is for the kitchen gray tank. Hard to pull could be corrosion in the cable or the valve. I had problem with the rear stabilizers also, it had water in the motor. The dealer cleaned the motor, no problems since.

[Carl n Susan]

Yup, you have found the drain handle for the third tank. You are correct it is the galley tank. That is a direct shaft connection to the valve (not a cable connection). Consequently, it shouldn't be that hard to pull/push. You may as well give it a hard tug. If it opens, fine. Otherwise you may have to drop the coroplast (or cut a 3 sided "window") to access the valve and determine what is wrong.

As for the lights, I don't know. I would suspect a disconnected wire somewhere. But as those lights are notoriously unreliable I would just forget about it. You will learn how often you need to dump that tank (and the others) as you get experience.

I assume you have electrical stabilizers. They are prone to taking on water. Many have cleaned them up and then sealed the vent hole with silicon to stop the water intrusion.

[rohrmann]

Last year, our galley tank drain pull came loose from the frame. I just removed enough of the TEK screws to pull the coroplast down to get my hand up there to screw the nut back on to the pull assembly and tighten it.

[Jeff53]

Thanks. I may give that a try. I looked in the battery compartment and someone has already messed with the jack wiring, so I'll have to take a closer look at that to see what was actually done. I found replacement motors on Ebay (actual Lippert brand) for about $180 in case I need to go that route. I'll try giving a tug on the tank handle today to see if it's free or not. I was afraid to pull on it too hard initially, but it sounds like I should be OK to exert a little force. That's about all I can muster anymore.

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Yup, you have found the drain handle for the third tank. You are correct it is the galley tank. That is a direct shaft connection to the valve (not a cable connection). Consequently, it shouldn't be that hard to pull/push. You may as well give it a hard tug. If it opens, fine. Otherwise you may have to drop the coroplast (or cut a 3 sided "window") to access the valve and determine what is wrong.

As for the lights, I don't know. I would suspect a disconnected wire somewhere. But as those lights are notoriously unreliable I would just forget about it. You will learn how often you need to dump that tank (and the others) as you get experience.

I assume you have electrical stabilizers. They are prone to taking on water. Many have cleaned them up and then sealed the vent hole with silicon to stop the water intrusion.