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Old 06-03-2020, 01:01 PM   #61
Last2Die
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This is what I ordered. Do I need to install anything else..? Have no idea about using a jumper...
https://furrion.com/products/50a-125...fer-switch-box

Tony

I have used my generators parallel together to run my unit while traveling, by using an extension cord. Doesn’t the ATS just choose which power source to use and switches? I’m no electrician but I thought the unit has 2 110 lines that make up the 220 vs a single line 220, like a dryer. Let me know don’t want to burn anything up...
 
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:26 PM   #62
Dave10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last2Die View Post
So I finally got a quote to install a transfer switch and a plus for the front of the RV. 1055 plus tax.... that sounds grossly overpriced..... or is that the going rate...?

parts: 495
labor: 475
service call: 85

I need to watch a ton of YouTube videos and do this myself for that price !! WOW

Tony
If you are paying someone to install that item, it should take less than 1hr to install in most RV's. Labor rates vary but I believe less than $150/hr is the market these days. I would tell the person that gave you that quote that you do not intend to buy his business and you simply want a fair installation price. I would look elsewhere. As said before doing your self is not that difficult.
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:56 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Last2Die View Post
This is what I ordered. Do I need to install anything else..? Have no idea about using a jumper...
https://furrion.com/products/50a-125...fer-switch-box

Tony

I have used my generators parallel together to run my unit while traveling, by using an extension cord. Doesn’t the ATS just choose which power source to use and switches? I’m no electrician but I thought the unit has 2 110 lines that make up the 220 vs a single line 220, like a dryer. Let me know don’t want to burn anything up...
I think what bshgto was saying is that your generator is 30 amp, with one hot, one neutral, and one ground. You need to jumper or wire the 2 hots on the 50amp side together at some point so power will be on both legs in the RV. Dogbone connectors usually wire the two together within the dogbone, so you can plug into 30 amp power and still get power on both legs in your coach. I would say that if you have already been connecting your generator to your coach through the main 50 amp receptacle (and it has been working), and all you are doing is adding a receptacle that is more accessible, then whatever you have been doing should work just fine. Just wire the transfer switch like PNW Fireguy said and you shouldn't have to worry about jumpers in the transfer switch.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:56 PM   #64
bshgto
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nOt riGHt

Unless the transfer switch made for 110volt campers and plugging into a 110 volt 30 amp power poll that connects to a 110 volt generator you will need a 110-220 volt transfer switch. I will not come ready for to plug your 110 volt paralleled generators into it and get power on both sides of your panel. The only way is to connect the jumper on the LINE side of the generator contactor to the red to the black to power both sides of your panel any other way you defeat the propose of the transfer switch altogether. Using plugs or receptacles to make this happen is asking for a mistake. If you forgot to unplug the jumpered plug or receptacle before the 220 volt power comes back on you will buck phases, I`ll go with the transfer switch to eliminated potential problems.

Under standing the sequence of events is key. Watch this vidieo for a visual explanation of what happens. Move to 2:36 seconds to start

v=zTjOECEhYDM
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:24 PM   #65
Last2Die
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More and more confused.... each inverter/generator I have is capable of 30amps. By using the parallel kit I get a hot from each generator so 25/25. On the parallel kit which is a standard rv 50amp plug there are 2 hots(one from each generator ) the common and ground. The ATS is 125/250 and is made by furrion for this exact application. I went over the online manual and no where does it state I need a jumper. Can the need for a jumper be specific to that product..?
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:43 PM   #66
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Ok so I’m not confused anymore. The video is showing using the jumper because of the 110 line going into the ATS with only 1 leg of hot (from a battery inverter) I don’t need a jumper because I will have 2 legs of hot.
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Old 06-03-2020, 06:00 PM   #67
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I see what bshgto is saying, but I think you are good to go. It sounds like you have what you need. I have seen that video, and that is hooking a single hot, 30 amp line in. If all you ever intend to connect to that port is a single hot, 30a input then it would be acceptable to jumper at the switch. In that case you should have a 30a RV receptacle to ensure you never connect 50a to it. Sounds like you have, if not true 50 amps going in, at least hot on two legs to connect to the 50 amp receptacle. If you jumper the ATS, it precludes you from using it for true 50amp shore power if you would ever choose to do that. Any time you use a 50a - 30a dogbone adapter, you are effectively tying the two hot legs of the 50a side together - that “jumper” is made in the adapter itself. IMHO, you have the most flexibility by doing it the way you are doing it. Again, if you have been using this setup to connect to your main 50a receptacle, this will work just fine. Just wire it direct with the 6/4 cable and don’t worry about a jumper in the switch. Again, sorry for confusing you, but you should be good with what you have.
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Old 06-04-2020, 09:34 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Last2Die View Post
Ok so I’m not confused anymore. The video is showing using the jumper because of the 110 line going into the ATS with only 1 leg of hot (from a battery inverter) I don’t need a jumper because I will have 2 legs of hot.
Yep your method will work just fine, The TS will prevent the shore power and the Generator power from ever coming on at the same time. I have just a single 4500 gen and use the jumper wire. Works well. I knew it would happen....... I think we are starting to have fun.
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:48 PM   #69
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**update**

Got the switch today and got it installed. Man those wires are a pain in the ass to manipulate but got it done. Tested, went back and forth between shore power and the 2 inverters. Had about 20-30 second delay when the inverter/ generators were plugged in as noted in the manual. Super happy with it will make traveling easier when we stop for the night.

Thank you to everyone for the advise and guidance!!

Tony
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:50 PM   #70
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okay so how much did you save doing it yourself?
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:54 PM   #71
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Hmm. I’m not going to include the new extension cord with the twist lock I would have bought that either way.

ATS was 151.00 amazon
Front 50amp plug I think 20.00
The wiring and all odd ball stuff 30.00

Looks like total job cost was 201.00

Wahoo !!!
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:24 PM   #72
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Congratulations! You did it. Most people can do almost anything they try but you haft to be willing to try. Now you know how it works so if you have any trouble you will know how to fix it and will be more willing to try you next project.
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:29 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Last2Die View Post
**update**

Got the switch today and got it installed. Man those wires are a pain in the ass to manipulate but got it done. Tested, went back and forth between shore power and the 2 inverters. Had about 20-30 second delay when the inverter/ generators were plugged in as noted in the manual. Super happy with it will make traveling easier when we stop for the night.

Thank you to everyone for the advise and guidance!!

Tony
Ok but we want to know how many time you blurted out a swear word......
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:38 PM   #74
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Ok but we want to know how many time you blurted out a swear word......
the last 12 connections = 12 multiple swear words per sentence LOL, Math for Marines is not our strong suit !!! LMAO

Tony
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Old 06-10-2020, 10:42 AM   #75
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Well done Tony, and you saved a ton of $.

You've encouraged me to tackle this project. I've wanted a plug up front for some time. The added bonus you have is if you're in a site with the pedestal near the front you won't have to lay out 30' of 50A cord, you can just plug in the front receptacle. That's what I want if for and plugging in the gen would be a bonus for me. I just have one 3400 watt and would just dog bone it like I do now in the rear. May take me a bit to find that 50A cord as my breaker panel is near the rear with the front L/R. Getting that cord from the front to the panel may be interesting.

But like you say, time to learn something new.
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Old 06-22-2020, 05:53 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Last2Die View Post
**update**

Got the switch today and got it installed. Man those wires are a pain in the ass to manipulate but got it done. Tested, went back and forth between shore power and the 2 inverters. Had about 20-30 second delay when the inverter/ generators were plugged in as noted in the manual. Super happy with it will make traveling easier when we stop for the night.

Thank you to everyone for the advise and guidance!!

Tony
Tony - just curious. How did you route your cable from your new receptacle to the transfer switch?
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:20 AM   #77
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I zip tied up up along the roof of the basement along side the plumbing. Through the wall where the propane tank is and placed the plug. Sealed the hole. So far on this trip I have used it a couple time dry camping no problems.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:09 AM   #78
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Thanks, Tony. I thought about doing it that way as well. I am in process of installing a battery bank system with inverter. I am installing 2 transfer switches in that same area (behind the passthrough), as well as a front mounted outlet like you did. So, I had the 6/4 cable to run, as well as two 6/3 cables from the front storage area to the transfer switches. I ended up dropping the chloroplast and running them through the belly underneath the passthrough. It turned out to be pretty easy. Putting the chloroplast back up we the trickiest part - had to enlist some help for that.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:57 AM   #79
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iN adDItIoN.........

Now that everyone has their TS installed how are you going to monitor how many amps your drawing? Your generator has a maximum and go over it it will drop out and you have to go out and restart the gen and restart your A/C`s, what a pain in the ??? in the middle of the night, and the wife gets cranky hollering at you to get that A/C running again or there will be smouching for you, sport. The simple and very easy to install is this. I mounted mine in the camper right at the thermo stat. I connected mine to the neutral in the panel to monitor the return amps at 110 volt which is the same as the line side amps at 110 volt. You will be able to tell when you are approaching maximum amps for your gen or just check when some things need to be turned off before you turn something else on like the Mirco wave. This is also an easy way to see how many TRUE amps an appliance is drawing, which is helpful when determining what to run when, like the wifes hair drier and the A/C or other high draw appliance.
Very easy to install and can be mounted anywhere you can get small wires. This device carries no real amperage just trace voltage so the wires can be small. This is for 110 volt generator amperage only as connecting to the neutral will show the unbalanced load at 220 volt. You can install the wires in the TS just as easy if you prefer but every thing you need is in the panel already and keeps it easy peasey to install.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:59 AM   #80
bshgto
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Originally Posted by bshgto View Post
Now that everyone has their TS installed how are you going to monitor how many amps your drawing? Your generator has a maximum and go over it it will drop out and you have to go out and restart the gen and restart your A/C`s, what a pain in the ??? in the middle of the night, and the wife gets cranky hollering at you to get that A/C running again or there will be smouching for you, sport. The simple and very easy to install is this. I mounted mine in the camper right at the thermo stat. I connected mine to the neutral in the panel to monitor the return amps at 110 volt which is the same as the line side amps at 110 volt. You will be able to tell when you are approaching maximum amps for your gen or just check when some things need to be turnhed off before you turn something else on like the Mirco wave. This is also an easy way to see how many TRUE amps an appliance is drawing, which is helpful when determining what to run when, like the wires hair drier and the A/C or other high draw appliance.
Very easy to install and can be mounted anywhere you can get small wires. This device carries no real amperage just trace voltage so the wires can be small. This is for 110 volt generator amperage only as connecting to the neutral will show the unbalanced load at 220 volt. You can install the wires in the TS just as easy if you prefer but every thing you need is in the panel already and keeps it easy peasey to install.
here it is, amperage and voltage meter on Ebay for about 8.00 dollars
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Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
F350 Ford Dually 4:10`s w/bags (payload 5595 lbs) Sumo Springs 63 gal aux tank
Reese Goosebox Mor/Ryde SRE 4000 X Factors Monroe shocks.... real smooth ride
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