Fenders and aluminum siding

[DCB]

I've recently read a couple threads about fenders coming loose, screws lost, etc. This may be a dumb question, but is there a good reason for the flimsy construction - plastic fenders and thin aluminum siding, aside from the obvious cost savings to mfr? I've wondered why a better construction method isn't used, and whether other mfrs offer better choices.

[rohrmann]

Yes, they could use way more expensive and heavier materials for the panels and fenders, but that is why the use what is on there, cost and weight savings. They sure could use a better fastening method, but once out the door and sold to the end customer, just like everything else on these rigs, they pretty much hope they will never see these rigs again. There are several ways to keep the screws from backing out, so it’s not hard to fix that problem.

[Montana Man]

I cut hardwood in half inch squares. Then screw in the fender screws using the wood as nuts inside the fenderwell. Sounds crude but so is the design but it works fine. There are better fixes in the forum.

[Texan]

Weight is of great concern when building rv's along with the fact the flimsy fenders are much cheaper to replace if you have a tire start falling apart going down the highway. I use stainless steel screws and lock nuts along with flat washes on front and back and they secure the fenders very well. The manufactures could do this but this is where cheap comes in to play. You could put a dab of silicone on the back of each fastener and that would work also and much quicker to do.

[Walt & Vicki]

Stainless screws and speed nuts(clips) work. Replaced all that are open behind panel.

[DQDick]

[beeje]

Put a little dab of silicon on the back side of the screws. They will not back out.

[Sdgood1]

What Beeje said.. haven’t had one come loose since..I did replace missing ones with the next size screw..

[Dave W]

After watching one fender flop around on a long trip, replaced all possible with SS machine screws and Nyloc nuts along with some fender washers for added support. A couple under the HW heater were replaced by some longer and a size heavier self drilling sheet metal screws. Montana's/Keystone product are not alone with this nagging problem

[jtcurbo]

Rocky, I put flat metal nuts that the factory screws fit into. The nut is a thin piece of metal. You can get them at Lowe's for a few cents.

[Randy E]

We have a 2017 3791RD. We bought it brand new. On our first trip out the fenders kept coming loose. Once we got home, I decided to add a small drop of lock tight to each screw to hold them in place. I did this in a few minutes. I then went in the house. About a half hour later my kid comes running in and says somethings wrong with the RV. When I went out to look, the fenders were actually laying on the concrete driveway. Every hole was totally melted and about dime size. The screws were still in the sheet metal. As it turns out lock tight has a chemical reaction with the cheap plastic. I then call my dealer to order new fenders for both sides. He tells me it’s under warranty and sends me both sides for free. Very good customer service. It was totally my fault.
Now the new set is on. I used stainless steel screws and finish washers from Lowe’s. I then put stainless steel lock nuts and flat washers on the back. Under the finish washers I put rubber disk washers. The same size as the finish washer. This gives it a cushion to clamp the fender without breaking it. All finished I had less than $20 in everything. They have never come loose again.
Thank goodness for a great customer service department at General RV in Canton Ohio.

[McRod]

I just put fender nuts on the back side. You can pick them up at any automotive parts store.

You can also replace the factory screws with trim screws which will provide more surface to hold.

Dorman is the typical brand name of these parts in the automotive parts stores. (AutoZone, O'Reilly, NAPA, etc.)

[BUBBA-NONNIE]

That is what I did.

[cgeis48]

Don't kid yourselves, folks - the reason for flimsy fenders that can't hold a screw is cost. Cheap makes more money for the mfr. It would be so easy to do better with little extra weight but the mfr won't do it because you will.

[mazboy]

why? it is all about money.


how to get the screws to stay in, you can caulk them in place as well as what is stated above.

[BobbyJ]

I know how this will go over....
I got some nice, white, exploding rivets that are more than solid. Yes, I know a rivet is more difficult than a screw to remove. I can drill them out if I have to for some reason. They're never coming out through normal use and travel.

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by BobbyJ

I know how this will go over....
I got some nice, white, exploding rivets that are more than solid. Yes, I know a rivet is more difficult than a screw to remove. I can drill them out if I have to for some reason. They're never coming out through normal use and travel.

That's an option. As long as the rivet doesn't squeeze so tight it cracks the plastic.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by cgeis48

Don't kid yourselves, folks - the reason for flimsy fenders that can't hold a screw is cost.

Incorrect assumption - our ancient and long gone 1973 5er had exactly the same thickness fenders and the screws came out of them as well. Not a major job using 5 bucks worth of SS machine screws and Nyloc nuts or similar fasteners along with - maybe - 30 minutes time



The problem is that assemblers drive the screws in too hard and strip the backing material.


I just don't get the histrionics from many folks over a very minor problem and very easy fix.

[paulinbaja]

I put "speed-nuts" on mine.

[cgeis48]

The RV manufacturers have failed to recognize their customer base. The bottom line is; People expect better.