Level Necessities

[David & Wanda]

As I have indicated in these pages before, my wife and I are new to RVing. In fact we picked up our 3121RL right before the pandemic hit and to date we have not been able to use it. So...I have been ordering a lot a stuff from Amazon and trying to envision what we need to set up at our first site.

One thing I have seen on YouTube videos is that sometimes pieces of wood/boards are needed to put under the jacks on one side or the other to facilitate leveling. I'm looking for recommendations in this area, i.e. size and number.

Thanks for all replies.

[jcurtis934]

I use 2x12 pressure treated lumber cut by Lowe's into approx 15-18 inch long pieces. They last for a really long time.

[BenFish’n]

Also consider joining the Keystone RV Forum. This topic was recently discussed. Search posts for Auto Level System posted by Benbill and read 30 replies on this subject.

[Camp CA]

Originally Posted by David & Wanda

..............I have been ordering a lot a stuff from Amazon and trying to envision what we need to set up at our first site.............One thing I have seen on YouTube videos is that sometimes pieces of wood/boards are needed to put under the jacks on one side or the other to facilitate leveling. I'm looking for recommendations in this area, i.e. size and number...............

Welcome!!...........installing boards under your jacks as suggested is one option.
Another option that we use is plastic standard stabilizer jack pads (ours are 8.25" square x 1 in and we use one for each jack. On a separate note we have compiled a list of items to make setting up camp faster and easier and added the list to our fifth wheel operating/maintenance manual. Of course, the forum can provide additional information on what they have done.

[Mikendebbie]

I use a couple of boards under the four rear jacks (see pic item "A").
I generally put two (double under each) 4x4 pieces under the front jacks (especially at my house where the camper sits because I need the extra height to get it level)
This helps spread the load out over a larger area, especially if you set up on less than perfect site (i.e. mushy gravel).
I had these boards in my backyard bone pile (so that is why I used this size boards) - treated 1x6 deck board + treated 2x6. A 2x12 as suggested above would spread the load out more, which is good. I raised all 4 of my rear jacks up one hole, which is about 1.5" so I added the 2x6 to compensate for the auto level function. Effectively the ram thinks it is in it's original position instead of a higher position since I moved the jacks up.

Off topic for level-up...but since they are in the pic...
Item B is handy - a Valterra waste valve with cap. I hated taking off the cap and catching a few drips of "honey" on my hands before I have the hose hooked up. The valve keeps all the honey from coming out. There are several good threads about these. I anchored mine with silicone tape to help keep it fixed and keep it on the rig. Here is a link to one...you can find them on amazon also.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T50B.html

Item C is a Valterra RV hose carrier. The OEM carrier on my rig was only about 4' long and would barely hold one section of hose. I bought a longer carrier (in fact it was adjustable in length) and now I can easily hold two sections of hose. I took the OEM carrier and mounted it on the opposite side and still use it. I think it is called "Valterra® A04-5094BK - 50" to 94" Black Adjustable Hose Carrier".

[richfaa]

We use the auto level system and if needed those plastic square blocks . We no longer find a need to carry various size boards and blocks around.

[DebNJim B]

Using blocking is a good idea. In addition to spreading the load out it adds stability.
I too raised our rear jacks after I bottomed out a couple times exiting fuel stops and an rv site that was sloped. I purchased Anderson Blocks to compensate.
https://andersenhitches.com/Products...ack-block.aspx
Yes, they are expensive but they are rugged and they have magnets that stick to the leveler feet so there is no guessing about the feet hitting the blocks. It reduces the jack stroke by 8".
One experience I recently had, When returning from FL a couple weeks ago, we stopped for a couple days in Brunswick GA. It was raining when we arrived and our pull thru site was pretty level so I didn't put the blocks out, just hit the auto level button. While we were there we noticed the camper "rocked" around much more when we walked around inside. By using the blocks of any kind you shorten the stroke of the leveler jacks and will have a much sturdier set up.

I also use the Valterra exit valve, and the storage tube mounted under the frame. Both worth their weight in gold. (course they don't weigh much)

[DutchmenSport]

I've been using the same lumber for probably, 25 years or more now. The lumber I have came out of a hundred year old barn and it took a chain saw to cut sections to length. In addition, I've used (more modern) treated lumber. I have learned nothing is better than lumber. Folks don't like it because it is heavy. But, if you travel from state to state, State Park to State Park, and never stay at the same campsite twice, you just never know what you'll need, or how much. We are over-prepared for most situations, but occasionally, we've run into some very unlevel campsites.



Previous camper:








This is our current camper, parked at home. Our driveway is slopped side-to-side with about a 6 inch grade from one edge to the other. I keep boards under the tires on the low side so it sits more level. I then also put blocks under the jacks.

One thing I learned very early with this camper, you don't want to extend the Lippert self-leveling jacks to the point where get "out of stroke." They will error out and it takes an engineer's degree to figure out how to fix it. It took me about 10 months before I finally figured out how those jacks work. And I learned the secret is, to level the trailer as much as possible before extending any of the jacks. That means using something under the tires to level, even before unhitching. If the camper is, something like 5 degrees, out of level, the self-leveling system does not work. The camper has to be pretty level before you begin to extend the jacks and self-level. Once I figured this out, and started leveling like I did with my previous travel trailers, the self-levelers worked great then, and I've never had another issue. So, depending on the condition of your campsite (especially in Indiana), you need to be prepared to raise one side of the camper, sometimes, as much as or 6 inches. At Racoon State Recreation area near Rockville, Indiana, I had to raise one side of the camper 11 inches. It was one of the scariest set-ups I ever did. But I was prepared, because I had the lumber.

This is my set-up at home. Notice blocks under the jacks, boards under tires.

[Daryles]

I got these from Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lynx-Leve...-Case/16778427
Light weight and works well, EXCEPT when the ground is soft. They will sink in. I put 1x12x12 under them if the ground is soft.

[lightsout]

The plastic jack supports are all junk, don't just take my word read the 100's of reviews they easily break which can be dangerous if you have then stacked.

If you cut your own out of wood if you use 2x or 4x lumber you need to also cut a piece of plywood the same size and screw it to the 2x or 4x reason being the 2x or 4x stock will easily split under pressure if it is not level underneath or a rock is present you will end up replacing them frequently. By adding the plywood to the 2x or 4x you are binding that entire board so if it does split it stays together and can even be re-used even is split.

[Montana Man]

I understand using blocks in order to get auto leveling to work. Why do folks use blocks when the site is relatively level? Why add a step to setting up a camper when you don't have to?

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by lightsout

The plastic jack supports are all junk, don't just take my word read the 100's of reviews they easily break which can be dangerous if you have then stacked.

If you cut your own out of wood if you use 2x or 4x lumber you need to also cut a piece of plywood the same size and screw it to the 2x or 4x reason being the 2x or 4x stock will easily split under pressure if it is not level underneath or a rock is present you will end up replacing them frequently. By adding the plywood to the 2x or 4x you are binding that entire board so if it does split it stays together and can even be re-used even is split.

I use this method for my front landing gear. I had a partial sheet of PT plywood and sandwiched that to standard 2x12 that I had. I put the PT plywood in contact with the ground. Have had these blocks for 7 years and counting.

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

I understand using blocks in order to get auto leveling to work. Why do folks use blocks when the site is relatively level? Why add a step to setting up a camper when you don't have to?

By limiting the extension of the jacks you gain stability of your rig.
In past 5ers we have use various methods to "stop the shacking".
with blocking the level up system we need nothing else.

[RichR]

I have found that micro laminate board work best and do not split. Most lunber yards have them.

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by RichR

I have found that micro laminate board work best and do not split. Most lunber yards have them.

Microllam is very expensive in comparison though and I doubt it is rated for ground contact, while most plywood is not either you can buy treated. If is does hold up to ground contact sounds like a good option. Here in WA where it rains a lot and the ground it wet that is a factor

[AZ Traveler]

I use a set of the plastic supports - they are much lighter than wood and inexpensive. I also carry a single 2by6 piece of wood that I can roll the tires up on for one side if needed. I used to carry multiple piece of wood but found I don't use them very often.

I generally do not need anything when using regular campgrounds with gravel or concrete pads. Unimproved sites and boondocking often require a little help.

[lightsout]

It should be noted you can get away with the plastic jack pads on the middle and rear jacks as long as the tires are on the ground (which is why leveling before jacks is important) as those jacks do not carry the weight the fronts do. If a set of plastic pads on the front were to breaks it could start a Domino effect. So at the very Least use Solid Pads on the front. I use 4x8 Treated with 3/4 treated Ply sandwich. so Each block is 5" deep. I carry 8 of them in case I need to double up. I do have plastic back ups for middle jacks if needed.

[Tfthorp]

I try and go through the scrap piles at home construction sites for microlams.
Ask first most will say go for it.

[RichR]

I have a set of micolams that I got in 1998 and still use- covered with varnish. Never get wet. As stated above, you can get scraps cheap if you look around.

[Jeff n Susan]

I use 2x12's also, but I have also learn how to build cribbage from firewood! A few times that was necessary when I didn't have enough blocking!
We carry a plastic tote for the blocks and most of the time I have a few left over, so I just put them under the jacks to shorten the stroke and make the camper more stable. It's all in what works for everyone in their own situation.
Good luck!