Level Necessities

[David & Wanda]

As I have indicated in these pages before, my wife and I are new to RVing. In fact we picked up our 3121RL right before the pandemic hit and to date we have not been able to use it. So...I have been ordering a lot a stuff from Amazon and trying to envision what we need to set up at our first site.

One thing I have seen on YouTube videos is that sometimes pieces of wood/boards are needed to put under the jacks on one side or the other to facilitate leveling. I'm looking for recommendations in this area, i.e. size and number.

Thanks for all replies.

[jcurtis934]

I use 2x12 pressure treated lumber cut by Lowe's into approx 15-18 inch long pieces. They last for a really long time.

[BenFish’n]

Also consider joining the Keystone RV Forum. This topic was recently discussed. Search posts for Auto Level System posted by Benbill and read 30 replies on this subject.

[Camp CA]

Originally Posted by David & Wanda

..............I have been ordering a lot a stuff from Amazon and trying to envision what we need to set up at our first site.............One thing I have seen on YouTube videos is that sometimes pieces of wood/boards are needed to put under the jacks on one side or the other to facilitate leveling. I'm looking for recommendations in this area, i.e. size and number...............

Welcome!!...........installing boards under your jacks as suggested is one option.
Another option that we use is plastic standard stabilizer jack pads (ours are 8.25" square x 1 in and we use one for each jack. On a separate note we have compiled a list of items to make setting up camp faster and easier and added the list to our fifth wheel operating/maintenance manual. Of course, the forum can provide additional information on what they have done.

[Mikendebbie]

I use a couple of boards under the four rear jacks (see pic item "A").
I generally put two (double under each) 4x4 pieces under the front jacks (especially at my house where the camper sits because I need the extra height to get it level)
This helps spread the load out over a larger area, especially if you set up on less than perfect site (i.e. mushy gravel).
I had these boards in my backyard bone pile (so that is why I used this size boards) - treated 1x6 deck board + treated 2x6. A 2x12 as suggested above would spread the load out more, which is good. I raised all 4 of my rear jacks up one hole, which is about 1.5" so I added the 2x6 to compensate for the auto level function. Effectively the ram thinks it is in it's original position instead of a higher position since I moved the jacks up.

Off topic for level-up...but since they are in the pic...
Item B is handy - a Valterra waste valve with cap. I hated taking off the cap and catching a few drips of "honey" on my hands before I have the hose hooked up. The valve keeps all the honey from coming out. There are several good threads about these. I anchored mine with silicone tape to help keep it fixed and keep it on the rig. Here is a link to one...you can find them on amazon also.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T50B.html

Item C is a Valterra RV hose carrier. The OEM carrier on my rig was only about 4' long and would barely hold one section of hose. I bought a longer carrier (in fact it was adjustable in length) and now I can easily hold two sections of hose. I took the OEM carrier and mounted it on the opposite side and still use it. I think it is called "Valterra® A04-5094BK - 50" to 94" Black Adjustable Hose Carrier".

[Last2Die]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

Item B is handy - a Valterra waste valve with cap. I hated taking off the cap and catching a few drips of "honey" on my hands before I have the hose hooked up. The valve keeps all the honey from coming out. There are several good threads about these. I anchored mine with silicone tape to help keep it fixed and keep it on the rig. Here is a link to one...you can find them on amazon also.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/Valterra/T50B.html

Item C is a Valterra RV hose carrier. The OEM carrier on my rig was only about 4' long and would barely hold one section of hose. I bought a longer carrier (in fact it was adjustable in length) and now I can easily hold two sections of hose. I took the OEM carrier and mounted it on the opposite side and still use it. I think it is called "Valterra® A04-5094BK - 50" to 94" Black Adjustable Hose Carrier".

interesting we have the same mods as far as the hose carrier and the extra valve.

Tony

[mtlakejim]

Originally Posted by Camp CA

Welcome!!...........installing boards under your jacks as suggested is one option.
Another option that we use is plastic standard stabilizer jack pads (ours are 8.25" square x 1 in and we use one for each jack. On a separate note we have compiled a list of items to make setting up camp faster and easier and added the list to our fifth wheel operating/maintenance manual. Of course, the forum can provide additional information on what they have done.

The wife can tell you I am OCD to the extreme. That's why I have 3 packs of those standard plastic blocks that stack together real neatly. But they do tend to be easier to store and you can wash/wipe them off easier.

[richfaa]

We use the auto level system and if needed those plastic square blocks . We no longer find a need to carry various size boards and blocks around.

[DebNJim B]

Using blocking is a good idea. In addition to spreading the load out it adds stability.
I too raised our rear jacks after I bottomed out a couple times exiting fuel stops and an rv site that was sloped. I purchased Anderson Blocks to compensate.
https://andersenhitches.com/Products...ack-block.aspx
Yes, they are expensive but they are rugged and they have magnets that stick to the leveler feet so there is no guessing about the feet hitting the blocks. It reduces the jack stroke by 8".
One experience I recently had, When returning from FL a couple weeks ago, we stopped for a couple days in Brunswick GA. It was raining when we arrived and our pull thru site was pretty level so I didn't put the blocks out, just hit the auto level button. While we were there we noticed the camper "rocked" around much more when we walked around inside. By using the blocks of any kind you shorten the stroke of the leveler jacks and will have a much sturdier set up.

I also use the Valterra exit valve, and the storage tube mounted under the frame. Both worth their weight in gold. (course they don't weigh much)

[Cadent59]

Originally Posted by DebNJim B

Using blocking is a good idea. In addition to spreading the load out it adds stability.
I too raised our rear jacks after I bottomed out a couple times exiting fuel stops and an rv site that was sloped. I purchased Anderson Blocks to compensate.
https://andersenhitches.com/Products...ack-block.aspx
Yes, they are expensive but they are rugged and they have magnets that stick to the leveler feet so there is no guessing about the feet hitting the blocks. It reduces the jack stroke by 8".
One experience I recently had, When returning from FL a couple weeks ago, we stopped for a couple days in Brunswick GA. It was raining when we arrived and our pull thru site was pretty level so I didn't put the blocks out, just hit the auto level button. While we were there we noticed the camper "rocked" around much more when we walked around inside. By using the blocks of any kind you shorten the stroke of the leveler jacks and will have a much sturdier set up.

I also use the Valterra exit valve, and the storage tube mounted under the frame. Both worth their weight in gold. (course they don't weigh much)

Andersen blocks are definitely the way to go!

[lightsout]

Originally Posted by Cadent59

Andersen blocks are definitely the way to go!

There has been a lot of complaints about Andersen Blocks failing, Plastic jack block in general are highly problematic especially if you do not have a good base. As much as Andersen wants for their Blocks they should be bullet proof but they are cracking and breaking down for many people.

[Cadent59]

I have used mine for more than 2 years, and have not had any issues. I can't say that about their hitch. The blocks are expensive, but I believe they're worth it.

[McRod]

Originally Posted by lightsout

There has been a lot of complaints about Andersen Blocks failing, Plastic jack block in general are highly problematic especially if you do not have a good base. As much as Andersen wants for their Blocks they should be bullet proof but they are cracking and breaking down for many people.

Hrmm... I am not so sure about that. My Big Sky weighs 17k,. I've been using Andersen blocks since 2017- Full Time. Never had a problem. They shorten the throw of the legs and make the RV more stable as their base is larger than the metal foot. They stack nicely, and I have been on some very unlevel ground and trusted them (doubled up) to hold my rig.

They are more expensive than scrap wood, but they are way more stable and easier to line up. They have a magnet that allows you to attach them before lowering the legs. IIRC, a single one can hold 6k lbs. I have 6 of them, 1 for each leg.

[DutchmenSport]

I've been using the same lumber for probably, 25 years or more now. The lumber I have came out of a hundred year old barn and it took a chain saw to cut sections to length. In addition, I've used (more modern) treated lumber. I have learned nothing is better than lumber. Folks don't like it because it is heavy. But, if you travel from state to state, State Park to State Park, and never stay at the same campsite twice, you just never know what you'll need, or how much. We are over-prepared for most situations, but occasionally, we've run into some very unlevel campsites.



Previous camper:








This is our current camper, parked at home. Our driveway is slopped side-to-side with about a 6 inch grade from one edge to the other. I keep boards under the tires on the low side so it sits more level. I then also put blocks under the jacks.

One thing I learned very early with this camper, you don't want to extend the Lippert self-leveling jacks to the point where get "out of stroke." They will error out and it takes an engineer's degree to figure out how to fix it. It took me about 10 months before I finally figured out how those jacks work. And I learned the secret is, to level the trailer as much as possible before extending any of the jacks. That means using something under the tires to level, even before unhitching. If the camper is, something like 5 degrees, out of level, the self-leveling system does not work. The camper has to be pretty level before you begin to extend the jacks and self-level. Once I figured this out, and started leveling like I did with my previous travel trailers, the self-levelers worked great then, and I've never had another issue. So, depending on the condition of your campsite (especially in Indiana), you need to be prepared to raise one side of the camper, sometimes, as much as or 6 inches. At Racoon State Recreation area near Rockville, Indiana, I had to raise one side of the camper 11 inches. It was one of the scariest set-ups I ever did. But I was prepared, because I had the lumber.

This is my set-up at home. Notice blocks under the jacks, boards under tires.

[Christal]

how do you manually go 5-7..Degrees on keypad? everytime i try to move a jack it wants to have another one go with it. right now we are slightly of on our side to side not noticeable but it is to a leveler. i need to bring the right side (in the back/middle) up like a quarter of an inch. This is the very first time i have set my rig up at this spot but it says its level but it really isnt.

[AZ Traveler]

Originally Posted by Christal

how do you manually go 5-7..Degrees on keypad? everytime i try to move a jack it wants to have another one go with it. right now we are slightly of on our side to side not noticeable but it is to a leveler. i need to bring the right side (in the back/middle) up like a quarter of an inch. This is the very first time i have set my rig up at this spot but it says its level but it really isnt.

At the level up control panel start by pushing the on button, then the up arrow and finally the enter button. This puts you in manual mode. From there you can push the right side arrow which will lift the 2 rear right side jacks. If you go too far, push the retract button and then you can push any of the four buttons to lower that associated section.

[Christal]

Originally Posted by AZ Traveler

At the level up control panel start by pushing the on button, then the up arrow and finally the enter button. This puts you in manual mode. From there you can push the right side arrow which will lift the 2 rear right side jacks. If you go too far, push the retract button and then you can push any of the four buttons to lower that associated section.

thank u

[Daryles]

I got these from Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lynx-Leve...-Case/16778427
Light weight and works well, EXCEPT when the ground is soft. They will sink in. I put 1x12x12 under them if the ground is soft.

[lightsout]

The plastic jack supports are all junk, don't just take my word read the 100's of reviews they easily break which can be dangerous if you have then stacked.

If you cut your own out of wood if you use 2x or 4x lumber you need to also cut a piece of plywood the same size and screw it to the 2x or 4x reason being the 2x or 4x stock will easily split under pressure if it is not level underneath or a rock is present you will end up replacing them frequently. By adding the plywood to the 2x or 4x you are binding that entire board so if it does split it stays together and can even be re-used even is split.

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by lightsout

The plastic jack supports are all junk, don't just take my word read the 100's of reviews they easily break which can be dangerous if you have then stacked.

If you cut your own out of wood if you use 2x or 4x lumber you need to also cut a piece of plywood the same size and screw it to the 2x or 4x reason being the 2x or 4x stock will easily split under pressure if it is not level underneath or a rock is present you will end up replacing them frequently. By adding the plywood to the 2x or 4x you are binding that entire board so if it does split it stays together and can even be re-used even is split.

I use this method for my front landing gear. I had a partial sheet of PT plywood and sandwiched that to standard 2x12 that I had. I put the PT plywood in contact with the ground. Have had these blocks for 7 years and counting.