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07-24-2013, 07:59 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Anode rod
I went to replace my anode rod today, had another 1 for a long time ago but its aluminum.
Does it matter if its aluminum or magnesium?
And I dont know if this is from a Atwood or Surburban WH. Its very tight going in.
Does anyone know if the pipe threads are different between Atwood & Surbarban?
Of course I threw the old one away already.....
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07-24-2013, 08:59 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,165
M.O.C. #6433
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Atwood water heaters do not use anode rods.
As far as magnesium vs aluminum there is lots of reading on the internet about it. But here it is in a nutshell from one site.
Magnesium vs. Aluminum Rods
Many plumbers prefer magnesium anodes because they produce a stronger current making them more effective at keeping the water tank from corroding. Aluminum rods collect a buildup of corrosive materials that harden and make taking them out for inspection or replacement a challenge. Magnesium may react with bacteria causing a sulfurous smell. Aluminum rods don’t have this problem as often.
Aluminum in the Water
Some plumbers say that aluminum anode rods are not safe because they put aluminum in your water supply. There are some clinical studies that suggest that aluminum might be a contributing factor in Alzheimer’s disease. It should be noted that most of these studies focused on the aluminum added by water treatment plants.
Alternatives to an Aluminum Anode Rod
An anode rod made of a mixture of aluminum and zinc appears to prevent odors, since the zinc changes the chemical composition of the water. Another alternative is an electrical anode rod. This kind of anode rod produces an electrical charge in the water instead of having a chemical reaction.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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07-24-2013, 09:10 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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AHA! Maybe this is why I have gotten that sulfur stink in my hot water a couple of times after first getting my Monty even that the rod has been replaced once. They must have both been magnesium rods in my Suburban hot water tank. I have found the best remedy is to drain the tank when the rig is in long term storage. Then when I camp, the hot water refills, it's heated and gets used until I break camp and store the rig once again. No problems over the past 5 years since I've been doing this.
Ya learn something new everyday! Sometimes more than one thing, too. Great post BB_TX.
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07-24-2013, 10:20 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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In answer to your pipe thread question ... 1/2" pipe threads are universal ... there are no fine and coarse thread like bolts.
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07-24-2013, 11:11 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
In answer to your pipe thread question ... 1/2" pipe threads are universal ... there are no fine and coarse thread like bolts.
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Seems that mine is 3/4 inch pipe thread.
I called Eastern Marine and the guy there said he has 1 for Surburban WH and its aluminum. Also said to clean the threads out good on the water heater, so I did and it goes in MUCH easier.
My old one would have a slimy goo on it when I would take it out, does that mean it was magnesium?
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07-25-2013, 05:59 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: merced
Posts: 983
M.O.C. #6171
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The treads are 3/4' pipe and the rods are almost the same size as the opening on some of the rods. Not sure about the slime. Mine also has it and I make sure to drain the WH at least once a year and rinse the tank out.
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07-25-2013, 06:57 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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I was just guessing at the thread size ... main point was pipe threads are pipe threads no matter the brand in answer to the question. Cleaning the threads was good advice as they get pretty crudded up on the water heater. If you do use a pipe tap instead of say a wire brush or pick ... be careful that you don't run the tap too far in the existing threads as they are tapered. If you were to run the tap in too far ... the anode will simply screw into the heater and fall inside ... then you buy a new water heater.
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07-25-2013, 07:53 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Mtheo, I drain my HWH after I get home each time, and it has that slime on it even after a week or 2 of camping.
Does that mean the slime gets on the magnesium rod? or aluminum rod? or both????
Dieselguy, I actually used a 3/4 inch brush for cleaning up the copper fitting before sweating a pipe onto it.
Worked great!!!
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07-25-2013, 03:39 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Wampum
Posts: 571
M.O.C. #9928
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Tom, if your anode rod has a weld button in the center of the threaded steel end then it's for a Suburban HW heater. ALL Suburban anode rods have this weld. If it does not have a weld spot then it's for SOB. But if it fits then I suspect it should work.
See ya...
__________________
"What happens at camp stays at camp"
2018 3121RL
2016 Ford F350 SB SRW
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07-26-2013, 05:38 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Slufoot733
Tom, if your anode rod has a weld button in the center of the threaded steel end then it's for a Suburban HW heater. ALL Suburban anode rods have this weld. If it does not have a weld spot then it's for SOB. But if it fits then I suspect it should work.
See ya...
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It does NOT have a weld spot in the center, but it has AL stamped into it.
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