Jacking points - Montana Owners Club

mojavemike · 03-07-2010, 02:39 AM

I want to adjust my brakes but the dexter manual says don't jack on the axle. So where do you do it at? Thanks

H. John Kohl · 03-07-2010, 02:59 AM

I jack just in from of the spring bracket making sure the bottle jack head is centered on the "I" beam. I do use a jack stand to support that side if I have to jack a second time for additional height.

Trailer Trash 2 · 03-07-2010, 04:20 AM

When I jacked mine up the last time to adjust brakes I use a bottle jack and place the jack between the two u bolts on the axel and lift it there then adjust one wheel at a time, its a little slow that way but it works I also leave the TV connected to the Monty for stability while underneeth the trailer.

TLightning · 03-07-2010, 07:28 AM

The manual says "on the frame close to the spring hanger." Also, I agree re the TV...keep the Montana hooked for safety.

Slufoot733 · 03-07-2010, 09:02 AM

Agreed. Use a good bottle jack and place the head BETWEEN the U-bolts on the axle. That's where the axle supports the weight of the vehicle anyway. Always use caution and be sure the head of the jack is centered on the axle. The jack head should have a checkered pattern cut on it to help eliminate slippage.

KT

camper4 · 03-07-2010, 02:13 PM

I agree with TLightning! The manual says.

RKassl · 03-10-2010, 10:50 AM

How much of a bottle jack do you need to lift the Monty, 20 or 30 ton?

Thanks

NCFischers · 03-10-2010, 11:30 AM

I have a 12 ton bottle jack and it lifts one side of an axle just fine. Remember that you are only lifting part of the weight. Some of the weight is on the opposite wheels and the TV. It's recommended that the trailer is hooked to the TV so it's more stable when jacking.

Trailer Trash 2 · 03-10-2010, 11:37 AM

Here is what I use 12 ton thats enugh to lift what you need to do, I had a friend weld a piece of channel to the top of the jack on the threded part so I'll never have to worry about the jack slipping off any thing.

Art-n-Marge · 03-10-2010, 01:15 PM

Regarding what the manual says, it was explained to me that they don't want you using a jack directly on the axle to prevent damaging the axle itself. I've had to jack a wheel up a few times for various reasons and I start with a bottle jack at a U-bolt. I think I should really go with the I-frame, but this means I have to bring out a few more blocks to gain the height needed.

I use a 6 ton bottle jack because all four wheels on my rig are rated to a maximum of 12,000 lbs and not only does my trailer not weigh that much at ALL the wheels, I don't ever expect to have to raise the whole 6 ton trailer using just the one jack. Your trailer weight may vary, but it's better to be over the actual or rated weight. I would like to get a second hydraulic jack so I can raise two wheels at one time. Two 6 ton jacks have 12 tons of support capacity and is PLENTY for my rig.

I like the side handle on TT2's jack, that makes it easier to retrieve from under the rig. Also, that welded channel is also a nice touch if it spans both U-bolts. That should create some pretty good stability. Don't forget to chock the opposite side - I use wedge chocks and scissor chocks between the wheels. As others have said keep the truck hitched for extra stability. I wouldn't trust the landing legs to tolerate much of the side-to-side motion that occurs as the trailer is being jacked up or worked on.

After jacking up using the bottle jack, I shore up at the frame using 3 ton jack stands. I really should use 4 ton or more per wheel just to be more capable but I had those from the TV and that does exceed my current trailer weight at each wheel.

Stay safe all!

TLightning · 03-11-2010, 04:39 AM

I use a 6 ton bottle jack and do a wheel at a time...although it will lift one side easily.

RCN.Stoker · 03-12-2010, 08:18 AM

Two jacks, one on the frame near the hanger and then on on the axle between the u-bolts. The frame jack is a combination bottle jack and jack stand and the axle jack is a floor jack. I use a jack stand on the axle for safety but keep most of the weight on the floor jack. The frame jack is 6 ton and the floor jack 2.5 tons. First I jack frame until spring load is not quite taken up then jack the axle against spring load. This distributes load of trailer over both jacks with the frame jack taking the majority of the load. I also hitch truck up but leave front legs down and re-lower rear stabilizers for improved stability.

8e3k0 · 03-12-2010, 03:39 PM

If we are just working on the individual wheel we will use a 4 ton jack or better directly under the axle and apply it at the jacking point to the underside of the u-bolt, this gives additional structural support that will not interfere with the axle components. A 7000 lb axle should only require 3500 lbs to lift one side effectively. We have applied this procedure for years on many trailers and have never had any problems. One must use jack stands when removing the wheel. To carry proper blocking to go under the frame is to me a bit overkill as the individual wheel is what your working on. You can not take the whole garage with you on your travels. The conclusion is: keep safety in mind!!

snfexpress · 03-12-2010, 04:05 PM

When Kathy fixed our tire, she put the 3-ton bottle jack on the axle between the frame and the U bolt...

She is much better at the mechanical stuff than I am...Oh well...

8e3k0 · 03-12-2010, 04:43 PM

Wow that rubber in the background looks a little large for that Monty!! Every tire Dealer should have a Tech like that, the economy would turn around immediately!!

clarkandsheila · 03-13-2010, 03:23 PM

I use a 12T bottle jack and also lift with the jack head between the U bolts, but no higher than required to get the tire off the ground. A jack stand is at the ready once the axle is high enough. I bought the 12T not because the capacity was needed, I just liked the much, much larger screw than the minimum needed.

I also cut a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum which contacts the axle tube rather than the toothed jack pad. It just slips between the U bolts.

Since this must frequently be done on softer ground than concrete or asphalt I made up a 3 layer 3/4" plywood pad that is big enough to hold the jack and the jack stand, about 12 x 20".

Look at the stand leg contact surface. I welded on some flat iron pads because mine were just the tube ends and were cutting and sinking into the plywood.

Of course all the other point about ensuring the trailer stays put are needed.

clarkandsheila · 03-13-2010, 03:24 PM

Wonder if you could make a Unimonty with that one tire in the background, balance might be fun though.

footloose · 03-14-2010, 12:12 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by snfexpress

When Kathy fixed our tire, she put the 3-ton bottle jack on the axle between the frame and the U bolt...

Kathy, you rock!
Mom

mojavemike · 03-14-2010, 05:45 PM

It would seem that if you put the jack between the U-blots that you would only be compressing the spring pack, which would be the weight the tire is supporting rather than lifting the entire side of the unit. The frame jacking would leave the brake adjusting area clear and is recommended by the manual. Have to block up 10 1/2 inches to reach the frame with my 12 tone jack. Doing it this way I would definetly hook to the TV and raise the landing gear.

H. John Kohl · 03-15-2010, 02:25 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by mojavemike

It would seem that if you put the jack between the U-blots that you would only be compressing the spring pack, which would be the weight the tire is supporting rather than lifting the entire side of the unit. The frame jacking would leave the brake adjusting area clear and is recommended by the manual. Have to block up 10 1/2 inches to reach the frame with my 12 tone jack. Doing it this way I would definetly hook to the TV and raise the landing gear.

Any time I am jacking on the frame I hook to tow vehicle and raise front landing legs. I do not feel the front legs are designed to support that kind of side stress.

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